Turn Signal Canceling Actuator

[money pit]

I had to replace the the contact ring for the horn on the crush can. Is the the metal canceling actuator supposed to fit tightly against the contact ring, pushing it down? When I removed the crush can, the contact for the horn was loose because the rubber insulation was gone, causing the horn to go off constantly. Is there supposed to be a little clearance between the rubber insulation and the metal actuator? Thanks

 

[Steve340]

Right against it - no clearance.

 

[Xcudame]

The clearance is built into the horn ring! Springs hold the connection "open" and when you push on the center cap, you collapse the springs, thus closing the connection and the horn(s) sounds.

 

[money pit]

Right against it - no clearance.

Thanks, that's what I thought.

 

[moparleo]

Looks like a fight with the wrong tools to work on.

 

[Steve340]

I used a pair of gearbox clip pliers which worked well. That cancel actuator is pretty tough spring steel I think. Also two person job helps.

 

[money pit]

Looks like a fight with the wrong tools to work on.

Yeah, the previous owner gutted the steering column. There were many parts that were missing (snap rings, collars, etc.), which caused the steering shaft to move up and down. It looks like he used a screwdriver to remove the crush can. I like tools so if I need a tool and only use it once, I'll buy it. I've learned my lesson, it's better to use the correct tool than ruin the part. I just ordered a new crush can on Ebay. Thanks

I used a pair of gearbox clip pliers which worked well. That cancel actuator is pretty tough spring steel I think. Also two person job helps.

That's exactly what I did. I agree, it's a two person job. I'm going to do it again when I receive the new crush can. Thanks.

 

[JMB711]

My Colum is also out and was not going to do anything with the contact ring as the horn works as it should. BUT, due to this thread I took a closer look at the insulation under that stout cancelling metal coil and under the ring. They are showing their age. And maybe I want to freshen things up.
So what is the correct way to get that ring off, and who sells the insulator bits please?

 

[cudamark]

My Colum is also out and was not going to do anything with the contact ring as the horn works as it should. BUT, due to this thread I took a closer look at the insulation under that stout cancelling metal coil and under the ring. They are showing their age. And maybe I want to freshen things up.
So what is the correct way to get that ring off, and who sells the insulator bits please?

I use my heavy duty snap ring spreaders for that job. Same one I use for automatic transmission rings.

 

[JMB711]

I use my heavy duty snap ring spreaders for that job. Same one I use for automatic transmission rings.

Thx, I will look those up.

 

[money pit]

Thx, I will look those up.

You can get the contact ring, which has the new rubber insulator from Classic industries. It comes with a new canceling actuator.

 

[JMB711]

Yes I was poking about on line and saw that was the case.
Thank you...

 

[money pit]

Yes I was poking about on line and saw that was the case.
Thank you...

The problem I have now, the right and the left signals don't cancel. Before it was just the right that didn't cancel. I have an aftermarket switch. I tried bending up the arms on the switch, which was recommended on this site. I think I'm going to get a NOS switch. The repops are junk. I had the same problem with the neutral safety switch. Went through 2 switches before switching to an NOS switch.