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Winter Storage Question

B5blueGC

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This is my first year storing my 1970 Barracuda. It has a fresh 340 and the break in oil has yet to be changed as it only has about 150 miles on it.

What do I need to do to store it for the winter? It will be in my unheated garage but the garage usually stays above 40 degrees all winter with some exceptions of really cold spells. I have added gas stabilizer and run it so that it gets into the carb.

Do people start it during the winter every so often? Do I need to roll it in and out of the garage so the tires don't flat spot? Looking for all input.
 
These cars have already lasted for 50 years. I tend to over-think things, so if you're like me, go easy and don't worry too much about it. but I just finished my third cup of coffee, so brace yourself for some overthinking.

I can think of some things you may want to consider, when storing your vehicle in a cold climate for 6 months or more:

1. battery. heat is the bigger enemy to the storage life of a battery than cold. lead acid and AGM batteries lose some charge just sitting. something like 5% a month. more, if you keep the battery connected to the electrical system, because there may be a clock and/or other items in there drawing current 24/7. a battery tender is one way to keep the battery happy and charged, but be careful, some of the cheaper ones are constantly charging, and this can cause sulfation and diminish the charging capacity of the battery over time. But there are some nice battery chargers/tenders that resolve this issue, like the NOCO Genius battery charger, where you can keep it connected for years, and it keeps the battery in top condition.

2. fuel. store with a full tank. the ethanol they put in petrol doesn't store that well. but its not an issue for many cars. if you're worried about it, include an additive at your last fill-up before storing. I like using STA-BIL 360 for this purpose. As a general rule, aircraft are often refueled immediately AFTER a flight and parked, so the tanks are full, and there is little empty air space within them to minimize the accumulation of moisture, which can taint the fuel and rust the storage tanks. The fuel in the float bowls of the carburetor can go bad without an additive, maybe even with. if you're really concerned about fuel causing damage, you can run the carburetors dry of fuel by blocking the fuel from the fuel pump while the engine is running.

3. tires. the tires can go flat and even (common storing motorcycle) develop flat spots. if you're storing for extended periods, you can put blocks of wood or jack stands under the frame rails to keep the weight off the tires. keeping them away from the UV rays of the sun is another issue, but not when the car is stored in a deep, dank, dark cave, garage or shop.

4. moisture. this one has bit me in the past. when temperatures fluctuate between day and night, the moisture in the air condenses on the glass and interior and can cause mold, mildew and rotting. there are a few ways to address this. a car port in parts of the planet with big swings in temperature are the biggest enemy. an uninsulated garage is better than a carport. better still, a residential garage with a water heater, where the heater operates a few items a day does a great job keeping things dry. when "stored inside" keep the windows cracked allowing that air drying cycle to keep things nice. without this, you may need a tiny (and gentle) heat source to keep things dry in the interior.

5. paint. If the area where the car is stored will have traffic, like squeezing by the car to get the mail, each day, I favor NOT covering it. when a car is covered, and kids and people are walking by it, they tend to think its protected, and become a little careless by rubbing against it, leaning their bikes on it, placing items on the hood, etc. when the car is left uncovered, I find people are much more careful around it. but in an area that won't see much traffic, I favor a cover to keep the dust off the paint, just make sure the interior can still see some ventilation, if the moisture things seems an issue.
 
This is what I would do. Break in oil. If you didn't do it yet change the filter, cut it open and inspect for metal fragments. Better safe than sorry. I would run the oil through the spring until you get 500+ miles then change. As far as the tires. They don't get flat spots as quick as nylon tires did. Over night in the cold they go thumpdy thump thump down the road the next morning. As far as the gas. I run the carb dry. The battery I pull it and put it inside.
 
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If you don't mind starting it and running it inside the garage with the roll up door, it's definitely a good thing - probably the best! Run it long enough to move the temperature gauge is usually sufficient. And you can run while it's sitting on four jack stands the keep the tires off the concrete. I like to put the rear pair of jack stands under the axle so the tires are 1/2" or so off the floor. The the front, I prefer to put the jack stands under the lower control arms. If it's only going to sit for two or three months, and you don't want to start it up occasionally, just remove the negative cable from the battery. It should be fine.

Here in the desert, I just make sure I drive my cars (all eight of them) periodically even if it's just around the 10 acres, but other places in the country are snowy and icy in winter. And I understand not wanting to take it outside.
 
I don't do anything special. I change the oil before winter to have fresh oil with no fuel or contamination in the oil all winter. Top off all the fluids, disconnect the battery and throw the car cover over them.
 
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