The rear bolts on my front bumper are rusted and I can't remove them despite heat and penetrating oil. I plan on cutting the heads off the bolts. What is the best way to remove the heads of the bolts? A grinding wheel or a cutting wheel? Or should I get a cutting torch? Thanks.
Rusted Bumper Bolt
- Thread starter money pit
- Start date
moparleo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2011
- Messages
- 7,250
- Reaction score
- 2,038
First would be a good quality 1/2" impact gun. First tighten the bolt, next try to loosen it. This will often work by getting slight movement forward first.
Once you break the fastener loose, it will just come out. you may have to do the tighten/loosen cycle a few times to break it loose. Next try
If you can get a long 1/2" breaker bar in there, that would be my suggestion.
Then you just snap the bolt. No other potential damages to other parts.
Once you break the fastener loose, it will just come out. you may have to do the tighten/loosen cycle a few times to break it loose. Next try
If you can get a long 1/2" breaker bar in there, that would be my suggestion.
Then you just snap the bolt. No other potential damages to other parts.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
I would say that snap it is you best bet. Least amount of damage to other things. An acetylene torch ( A brazing tip concentrates the heat better) is always your best bet. But a degree of difficulty in taking it along. I use a propane torch a lot of times. I used two a few times and it worked. If you can heat the bolt with out damaging an area. It will soften and make it easer to snap it.
An other thing to keep in mind. Is to shock the threads with a sharp smack with a hammer. Had to do it all the time on heavy equipment.
This is the torch I use a lot. I only used the acetylene torch with a brazing tip 2-3 times in the past year.
Last edited:
I tried just what you had mentioned. I'm going to try the breaker bar next. Thanks.
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
already on stage 3? don't break it, unless you're happy with ACE hardware store replacements
I have the same torch and use Map gas. I heard if you heat the bolt, spray penetrating oil on it, heat it and spray it a couple of time it should loosen the bolt. A crayon instead of penetrating oil is also supposed to work. thanks
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Just to be clear: Did I miss something? You are talking about the bolts on the bumper not on the bumper arm to the frame? Bumper Mounting Bolt Set - 16Pcs - Dart Demon Charger Challenger Barracuda
Last edited:
Actually, the Ace near me sells grade 5 and 8 bolts. I was surprised they have such a large assortment. Thanks
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The torch I showed I use on my propane tank from the grill. I heat it a good 5 min. I have a MAP gas also.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
As I said before. I used two of the same torches one time. My son was working on suspension on his car and could heat enough. I told him it will come apart. He had a torch too and I took mine there and fired them both up for a good 5-10 min. It came apart.
It's called heat soak. Expand and contracts breaks it loose.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
If it is the bumper arm bolt there is a other method to remove it. First, Smack the bolt head with a BFH. Done it on pipeline jobs and the shop. Sometimes it's busted off below the surface. You don't need a washer. The heat from the welder does the work.
Weld an other nut to the head.
Weld an other nut to the head.
Last edited:
The bumper arm. The bumper bolts are also locked up. Thanks
The nut inside the frame is frozen. So I don't think this will work. Thanks
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
As I know you know. The nut inside the frame needs heat. If you try snaping it off using impact or torque using leverage you will break the spot welds loose that hold it in place. Ask me how I know!
Last edited:
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
First keep smacking it with a BFH, heating and trying to brake loose. Keep getting a bigger BFH. It needs heat! At some point the the bolt head will become unusable. Weld a nut on it. AS I said the heat from welding a nut on penetrates all the way in.
The other option is to cut a U shape per se, on the bottom of the frame. Fold it open, heat the nut. Then fold back and weld shut. An other option would be to drill a hole to get the torch head into the nut. Then use a car plug to cover the hole.
The other option is to cut a U shape per se, on the bottom of the frame. Fold it open, heat the nut. Then fold back and weld shut. An other option would be to drill a hole to get the torch head into the nut. Then use a car plug to cover the hole.
Last edited:
moparlee
Well-Known Member
Even after heating/soaking I had to use a 4 foot piece of pipe on my breaker bar to get mine loose. Luckily the inside frame spot welded nut held!
