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booyaballer

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Hi, would there be any issues connecting multiple grounds to the same location?


Thanks!
 
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not really, unless it is a bunch of them adding potential surfaces that may oxidize in time. Ground is ground.

If you're adding grounds to auxiliary equipment, I recommend crimping the wired into an eyelet, then fastening that with the grounding crew or bolt. Do this, instead of twisted the copper wire around the shaft of said screw.

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But if you had like 10 wires on one ground, I would combine some of those wires into a smaller number of eyelets. The factory did this. I have not seen more than 3 wires per ground, though.
 
There should be one engine ground to accomadate the starter and the alternator charging. It wouldn't hurt to have one on the back of the motor to the connecting points of the voltage regulator and ignition control module. I used a stainless steel woven strap. More forgiving of movement.
Then there is the chassis ground from battery to radiator support. If you have other components other then stock. Drawing 100 amps. That's just a number. It wouldn't hurt to upgrade to say an 8 or even 6 gauge. All the ground load goes through it in a stock configuration. If you have other add on accessories. A jumper to gound would be adequate. Other than that it's a wasted effort. They have to be in the right place.
Take note. In most cases the motor transmission and rear are isolated from ground. There is no high ground carry capacity.
There can be a compent that might carry a low current load. Such as the reverse light or other. Or some other fault.
 
In most cases the motor transmission and rear are isolated from ground.
This is why it is said to.: Stay in the car if there are power lines down.
Same for heavy equipment. Seen it happen. Had to warn the operator. Don't touch nothing and don't jump out. . I had to go turn power off.
 
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Take note. In most cases the motor transmission and rear are isolated from ground.

Wow, is this true? the engine is (chassis) grounded, the 727 bell housing bolts to the engine, the drive shaft is all metal, and it conducts to the differential and rear axle. Of course, the rubber tires do indeed isolate the chassis ground from the earth ground.

I'm skeptical the rear axle is isolated from chassis ground. It defies logic and makes my brain hurt (only a little) This is a new one on me.
 
I'm skeptical the rear axle is isolated from chassis ground.
I could have missed something.
The leaf spring bushing would isolate the one from the other. The other shocking thing is the shocks are isolated. I did miss the tires Isolating the car. More so a given.
So there for it's double insulated.
That explains why I have no worries when I'm in my car. I'm isolated from the rhetoric of the world.
Ok wait I forgot the about the parking brake and brake lines. That brings that thought to stop! Wonder how conducive brake fluid is.
Thanks for the skepticism. It brings a second thought.
Thats why there is a motor ground and a chassis ground. If you understand it differently. Please bring me back to earth.
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I would be careful adding too many items to a single location, especially if they draw any current. Current creates heat due to resistance and heat causes wires to breakdown over time. Those stiff crispy wires we all deal with.

Run the shortest wire you can to ground. The body of the car is a giant heat sink so spreading the connections around is better than going to a single point.
 
i took all my acc gauges radio ect to a buss bar then #10 wire through the firewall to a bolt on the back of the head.to garentee a good ground.
also ran a line from the battery to a second fuse box to feed them all bypassing the factory harness.
 
Look up the term "Star Grounding". Its where you connect all ground return paths to one location. If you begin to dabble in EFI this term comes up frequently.
 
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