Do you really ever "need" another?

DetMatt1 · Jan 6, 2017

Sorry, no ac is correct. I thought the B51 was actually an H51...

gdrill · Jan 7, 2017

Well here it is. Didn't find another broadcast sheet in the front seats, had to check! Anyway, it needs floors, torsion bar crossmember, front rail sections and rear rail sections, driver inner fender, maybe pass as well, quarters etc. Basically the same as my 71 minus the inners. The pass fender is great and I have a very good driver for it, that was off a purple car originally. It's basically missing the drivetrain, but most of the 70 specific tidbits are there. I had to get it indoors before somebody decided to help themselves to stuff.

gdrill · Jan 7, 2017

A few more....

moparlee · Jan 7, 2017

Like you said, just like your 71 as far as metal work goes. Heck this one will be a walk in the park with all the interior and trim parts already there

. What's your plan attack, finish the 71, then your RR, then the 70, or.......whittle away at each of them?

gdrill · Jan 7, 2017

LOL, ya it looks a lot like my 71. I must be a sucker for punishment. But hey, we can save cars today that years ago were written off as too far gone. It definitely is miles ahead being mostly complete, at least not totally stripped like the 71 was! As for the pecking order, I'll concentrate on what I have going now, but I'm sure my curiosity will get the best of me and I'll tinker with the 70 too. Sometimes I find if I jump back and forth I don't get burned out on something and it seems like a fresh start when I get at it again.

gdrill · Jan 7, 2017

I used the My Mopar decoder and came up with this, but the build sheet is of course more refined. It has front and rear sway bars, rallye wheels, exhaust tips, and a couple other things.

1970 Challenger RT

JS23: Dodge Challenger
Special, R/T
2 Door Hardtop
N0B: 383 330HP OR 335HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL
1970
Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI, USA
xxx864: Sequence number
E63: 383 cid 4 barrel V8 H.P. 335hp
D32: Heavy Duty Automatic Transmission
FC7: Plum Crazy Metallic Exterior Color
HRX9: Trim - High, Leather Bucket Seats, Black
000: Full Door Panels
519: Build Date: May 19
C78676: Order number
V1W: Full Vinyl Top, White
A01: Light Package
A04: Basic (Radio) Group
A62: Rallye Instrument Cluster Package
B51: Power Brakes
C16: Console w/Woodgrain Panel
C55: Bucket Seats
G34: OS LH Remote Racing Mirror
J54: Sport Hood
M21: Roof drip rail moldings
N41: Dual Exhaust
N42: Chrome Exhaust Tips
N85: Tachometer
R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)
V5X: Body Side Stripes, Black
Y07: Build to Canada Specs
END: End of Sales Codes

gdrill · Jan 12, 2019

Hi gentlemen, and ladies. I've been away for a while. Plans have changed. I decided to dig into this car and make it solid. I am going to move it on soon and it would be a tough sell with all the frame work that was needed. So, I got a parts shell and salvaged some parts off of it. Then I fabricated some other stuff.

T-bar cross member and frame ends.

gdrill · Jan 12, 2019

Then the passenger side rear rail had rotted out on the drop down to the front. It's weird how cars rust. Some parts are shot on one car and fine on another. This an example of that. The parts shell had the driver side toast!

gdrill · Jan 12, 2019

Here is the shell and what it is now!. It was converted to a "race car" years ago.

gdrill · Jan 12, 2019

Then someone had hacked in a ball stud for a 4 speed. That section had to be repaired as well. The car now sits on solid rails, excluding the rear spring mount area that is swollen like all Challengers.

gdrill · Jan 12, 2019

I think I will install a front floor pan and rear foot wells. Then I may put it up for sale.

aussiemark · Jan 12, 2019

Mopars & Missiles said:
I wouldn't give more than 3-4K for that. In that condition they aren't worth squat IMO. Completely done (and done well) and driving is when they are worth a lot. If it was easy and cheap to restore them, these "projects" wouldn't be sitting around in everybody's garages. But everyone wants to sell theirs for "big money" because they see the prices for completed cars.

For instance, if that project is worth 10k, then my complete running driving matching numbers '70 R/T SE must be worth 100k in comparison. Just my opinion.

The ralley dash is worth 2k the seats are worth 600-1000 as cores there's your 3k and look what's left 3431077 3 speed wiper motor core? I just paid 300 for the correct date code core for my car. mint grille, decent door trims, pistol grip shifter and on and on then when you've finished making money you sell a decent project shell with build sheets and tags for 3k. I once tried to sell a good project for 5k got tired of dealing with low offers so parted it out people who came for the parts were vey happy to pay good money, had no hassles sold the bare shell for 2k made 8k all up. I wouldn't part this car but it'd definitely worth more then more then 4k.

gdrill · Jan 12, 2019

Yes, trust me I've considered it. But I am a guy that loves to do rust repair and give things a new chance at life. This car will go as one I hope. It will be for a decent dollar, as you said, I could sum the parts up. But I also could use all this stuff in my 71! Problem, I need a white interior. So, somebody else can have a great start for a purple 70 RT. I also have a very close date coded engine for it. 2 months prior to build so that will be handy if they don't want to 440 it.
And if nobody wants to pay a fair price.......well.......

aussiemark · Jan 12, 2019

Yes, I agree the more of the difficult (in some peoples mind) metal work you do the more people will be interested in buying and finishing the car. And when you do sell why would you accept any less then what all the parts are worth? it's not like the parts are common or easy to find you have to wait for them most of the time. It's the Hemi and 440-6 cars that are missing parts that drive the prices up they don't want repop and are willing to pay the price for what they need and this drives the price up. It doesn't matter if the part is on a slant six or Hemi car if it's got the same part # & correct date code it's worth $.

Mopars & Missiles · Jan 13, 2019

aussiemark said:
The ralley dash is worth 2k the seats are worth 600-1000 as cores there's your 3k and look what's left 3431077 3 speed wiper motor core? I just paid 300 for the correct date code core for my car. mint grille, decent door trims, pistol grip shifter and on and on then when you've finished making money you sell a decent project shell with build sheets and tags for 3k. I once tried to sell a good project for 5k got tired of dealing with low offers so parted it out people who came for the parts were vey happy to pay good money, had no hassles sold the bare shell for 2k made 8k all up. I wouldn't part this car but it'd definitely worth more then more then 4k.

Exactly, IF and ONLY IF you're a scrapper. It also takes time to dismantle a car and sell it piece by piece. What's the cost of your time? So many who think they are making a lot of money selling rusty old pieces of a car but never take the amount of time involved into account. Personally, I've got other things more important to do than cut up rusty old cars and then try to sell a piece here and there for a few dollars, and have to deal with the crazies who answer an ad on CL or elsewhere. Are you really getting rich cutting up old cars? Honestly? I doubt it.

Different people have different priorities and see value in different ways.

gdrill · Jan 13, 2019

I agree that it takes a lot of time and effort to dismantle a car. I have done a few A-body 4 doors for parts for my projects. Heck, even that shell took hours to cut apart and salvage parts off of. But for me, the hardest part is giving the car "the kiss of death"! I hate to decide that they will not be coming back ever. I have purchased a few for drivetrains and in the end sold them whole because I could see somebody else driving them.......and they do.