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Torsion bar delete

Making a Chevy out of your Mopar? No thanks but several people have done it. Torsion bar suspension is actually superior to coil over. Just harder to swap out bars than springs. With TTI and Doug making great headers for our Mopars, I see no need for the Chevy Coilover crap! But that's just me and these guys:

 
That's an A body kit you posted. If you're doing an A body I suggest you go over to the forabodiesonly forum and check with those guys. there may be some differences between the E bodies and the A bodies. I know for sure there are some guys who have done the swap in the New Hemi Engine Swap section over there.
 
Yeah I agree it's not necessary. I wasn't sure what value it had besides making header fitment easier.

I was just wondering what everyone opinion on it was.
 
If you race your car in an environment where you need rapid springs changes, need to perform changes for track conditions, or have a need to dial in those spring rates within 50-100# of perfect, then a coil over system can be a benefit. It also will reduce weight in the front of the car and may provide some minor improvements in some suspension angles. Most of these also provide rack and pinion steering with the proper geometry correction to prevent steering issues. And yes, they provide improved engine access for headers and oil pans.

If you have none of the requirements above, they are simply a nice, albeit expensive, option.
 
I Agree with the above comments , yes you can achieve higher spring rates with coilovers But generally this includes Rack & Pinion steering which doesn't work well in Mopars ,using pinto / mustang 2 parts .
T bars are superior , , weight is lower & further back in the chassis , easy to adjust & replace overall , more work is required to swap coils .
It has been proven many times that you can corner well over 1 G with very few mods & using T bars so that is the route I would use ,
Generally big T bars , bigger sway bars , better caster & camber adjustment using offset bushings or tubular upper control arms , stiffened chassis & lower control arms , poly bushings , combined with 17" rims & better tires can get you over 1 g , tubular K frame shock tower supports under the fenders , better rad support all help as well .
 
I only installed an AlterKation set up under my blue Challenger because it was basically free to me. Being my car is a street/strip car. It does have many advantages. I can run a larger capacity flat bottom top fuel/funny car type oil pan for ground clearance. More suspension travel. Shaved 125 lbs+ off the front. I was able to weld up my 3 piece Hemi headers as both 1 piece headers with the rack and pinion and I can install them from underneath with the engine installed in less than 10 mins. I can install and remove the engine by myself in about an half hour.

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Remember, back when these cars were built they had bias ply tires which were crap for cornering. Good radial tires with a stiffer sidewall will expose the need for heavier T-bars and sway bars. I dont remember the brand, but I put new T-bars on my Challenger (went from 340 factory engine to 440) that are just over 1 inch in diameter; nothing crazy but they are bigger than any factory bar and made a big difference in handling the extra weight.
 
I'm doing a restomod now on a 73 Cuda and I thought about the coil springs. The pros are great, more room for exhaust, rack and pinion conversion. ect... After looking at it from an engineering point of view it relocates the weight of that corner all on the front frame extension. Unless you beef up the inner fender or add some sort of brace at the top of the coil spring you will probably bend the frame. If you follow the lines of force the torsion bars transfer the corner weight to the center crossmember, a much better and stronger way to hold the car up. I kept the torsion bars and dealt with the room issues. Keep in mind I also may have no idea what I'm talking about.
 
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