DetMatt1
Well-Known Member
Why remove all that factory undercoating?
1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible
- Thread starter 340challconvert
- Start date
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Wanted to make sure there is no hidden rust, especially at the welded seams which are hidden underneath the undercoating
Will put fresh seam sealer and re-coat. Despite the work, thought this was the best recourse.
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Found any stress cracks just doing the underneath on my A66 found around 6 repairs to broken welds & a
1 1/2 split in the floor near the inner rear bolt on the 6 way seat car was driven until 1998 restored by Bill Allphin.
That working under the car holding heavy tools for a few hours sucks .
1 1/2 split in the floor near the inner rear bolt on the 6 way seat car was driven until 1998 restored by Bill Allphin.
That working under the car holding heavy tools for a few hours sucks .
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Austa
Your thinking is like mine.
Any welded stress cracks are exactly what I wanted to check. Anything could be hidden beneath the undercoat.
I found a number of sloppy welds on sections of my car that need some attention.
Your thinking is like mine.
Any welded stress cracks are exactly what I wanted to check. Anything could be hidden beneath the undercoat.
I found a number of sloppy welds on sections of my car that need some attention.
If your going to primer & repaint beg borrow or steal a paint pot
If you to do it on a hoist with a gravity feed or suction pot gun the pot will keep touching the fresh paint also if you tip the pot at 90 degrees to the panel the gun will suck air not paint on a rotisserie it is fine .
Also you will only get 50% of the paint fan on the panel leaving a crappy finish
If you to do it on a hoist with a gravity feed or suction pot gun the pot will keep touching the fresh paint also if you tip the pot at 90 degrees to the panel the gun will suck air not paint on a rotisserie it is fine .
Also you will only get 50% of the paint fan on the panel leaving a crappy finish
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
As I go through my stored parts:
I finally found the extra convertible tinted glass that I stored years ago. Have a left and right rear quarter glass tinted, and a driver's side door glass. Only missing the passenger's side door glass in tinted form.
My A66 currently has non tinted glass (replaced the cracked windshield with a tinted version)
I will eventually install the tinted glass in the car. It all appears to be in good condition overall for the age.
Had luck with these stored parts: glass date codes decode as 9th month of 1969 for my October 1969 SBD Challenger.
I finally found the extra convertible tinted glass that I stored years ago. Have a left and right rear quarter glass tinted, and a driver's side door glass. Only missing the passenger's side door glass in tinted form.
My A66 currently has non tinted glass (replaced the cracked windshield with a tinted version)
I will eventually install the tinted glass in the car. It all appears to be in good condition overall for the age.
Had luck with these stored parts: glass date codes decode as 9th month of 1969 for my October 1969 SBD Challenger.
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340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Completed cleaning the rear wheel well, stripped, cleaned rust proofed. Took another member's suggestion and used a commercial heat gun. Did a great job of removing very brittle old undercoating.
Need to reseal and put back seam sealer in the welded seams.
Need to reseal and put back seam sealer in the welded seams.
DetMatt1
Well-Known Member
Looks great!
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Thank you
DetMatt1, any recommendations for seam sealer specific to this area?
DetMatt1, any recommendations for seam sealer specific to this area?
DetMatt1
Well-Known Member
Not sure, something from Eastwood maybe? I haven’t personally even confronted with that detail up to this point.
quapman
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Shop DAP Dynaflex 230 10.1-oz White Paintable Latex Caulk at Lowes.com
I use this and it works great. A fraction of the price of 3M stuff, too.
I use this and it works great. A fraction of the price of 3M stuff, too.
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Fun job
Cleaning up the torsion bar cross member, frame and floor.
Found original orange and yellow assembly markings on the torsion bar cross member.
Cleaning up the torsion bar cross member, frame and floor.
Found original orange and yellow assembly markings on the torsion bar cross member.
moparlee
Well-Known Member
You are doing a fantastic job on cleaning up those surfaces. How many wire wheels have you gone through? Looks like you found a couple of small rust holes in that floor pan.
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
I buy the cheap Harbor Freight wire wheels for about 3 bucks a package and throw them out when they wear out.
Have to make sure you wear safety goggles; the wires from those cheapo wheels fly all over.
They are cheap and they work ok.
Luckily, the underneath is cleaning up easily.
Yea, the holes were visible from the top
Only holes were in the driver's side front floor pan. (the trunk pan is also shot)
I was pretty aggressive in sanding the area down on top to see what would need to be replaced (belt sander with 60 grit)
The strange thing: the metal is still very strong and intact around the holes; I physically tried to enlarge them to see the extent of the damage.
I have a new AMD floor patch panel for the area if needed, I wanted to see if some of the holes could just be welded up and ground down?
I will probably fit in the front section of the new pan from the torsion bar brace forward to the fire wall seam. Looks to be the best repair option.
The right side was mint and still had factory paint on it.
Moparlee Thanks for your thoughts!
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Great Job might pay to get some cuts off an old floor rather than full replacement
You could try these Poly strip discs they take off the undercoat & Paint without damaging the metal
I used a Milwaukee battery grinder just make sure the disc is rated to the grinder speed first 1 i tried a put on a powered grinder the disc exploded thought i was missing a couple of digits all good.
Also used a heap of cheap wire wheels in a high speed drill the good thing is when they get tired you reverse the drill & get extra life
Second pic is the finish with a poly disc i was lucky the floor had been done 12 years ago & protected with some good etch primer
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Your floor looks good. Came out great w the poly disc. I have two small grinders, an old Makita, and a newer Craftsman grinder. I picked up the thin cutting wheels and several spot weld cutters. Want to go slow and easy.
This will be a first for me in cutting out a floor section. I will cut above the torsion bar support, along the bottom of the tunnel hump, and drill out the welds along the fire wall and against the rocker. This would be using about 1/2 of the repro panel. Should allow for clean install with the only visible seam underneath at the tunnel hump.
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DetMatt1
Well-Known Member
I hope you didn’t buy the spotweld cutters at H.F..
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Looked for quality with both the cutting discs and spot weld cutters
Purchased these already from Amazon; American made, thought I would start w these. Never worth buying cheap with this kind of item.
Kester's Services
Spot Weld Cutter Drill Bit Set of 3 Cobalt Made in USA
Professional quality, Long lasting, Made in the USA
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340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Also looking at USA made spot weld cutter kit from Blair.
These kits got top ratings
5/16'' Premium Spotweld Cutter Kit w/ Pilot Pin
These kits got top ratings
5/16'' Premium Spotweld Cutter Kit w/ Pilot Pin
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js29
Well-Known Member
I use the Blair bit's. Center punch the spot weld, use an 1/8th drill bit and drill A pilot hole. I try not to go all the way through. slowly drill the spot weld keeping the bit straight. when you see the top of the blades disappear you are through the first layer. I like doing this instead of drilling all the way through. My 2 cents!
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