512 stroker starts but wont stay running

[bullet18]

I think its a vacuum issue. Not sure its drawing fuel. Could it be the pcv valve i have hooked up? When the accelerator pumps give it fuel it revs but then dies right after.

 

[tonysrt]

The fuel pump keeps fuel in the carb. Maybe a weak pump not providing enough fuel when accelerating. You have to give a little more info on the build of the motor. What's new and what's not.

 

[bullet18]

The whole motor is new. It isnt running long enough to drain the bowls even only afew seconds off the starter if I hit it with the accelerator pumps. Ive got a big holley electric fuel pump and ive filled the bowls.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

If it revs when you add fuel it is running too lean so either the choke is not connected or the mixture is too lean or there is some blockage in the jetting

 

[bullet18]

If it revs when you add fuel it is running too lean so either the choke is not connected or the mixture is too lean or there is some blockage in the jetting

Its an e choke and it isnt hooked up rn cause i thought it was closed by default.

 

[bullet18]

Choke is wired now. The motor was built and then sat for a few years. But i remember it having the same problem before it sat.

 

[bullet18]

Also it seems like i only get ignition when i manually short the starter relay and not when i turn the key.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Neutral safety switch or clutch switch wired ?

 

[tonysrt]

If it dies when you release the start part of ignition key, put 12 volts right to the + side of the coil and if it continues to run ignition sw is not giving volt to ignition system in the run position. Only do this to see if it runs for a short period of time or you'll wipe out coil. If you had problem before could still be a weak pump. Check ignition as above and then go from there.

 

[Challenger RTA]

look at the voltage regulator.make sure it's grounded. clean it up and mount it. It could be loosing connection when revving.

 

[bullet18]

look at the voltage regulator.make sure it's grounded. clean it up and mount it. It could be loosing connection when revving.

I will make sure its grounded when i get up tomorrow morning. Its a little loose.

 

[bullet18]

If it dies when you release the start part of ignition key, put 12 volts right to the + side of the coil and if it continues to run ignition sw is not giving volt to ignition system in the run position. Only do this to see if it runs for a short period of time or you'll wipe out coil. If you had problem before could still be a weak pump. Check ignition as above and then go from there.

It gets voltage in run but not in start.

 

[tonysrt]

Do you have a fuel filter? I had a Dart that had crud in the tank, I'd change filter and again would clog up from crud in the tank. I changed tank to clear problem. We're talking about 50 + year old tanks that have seen a lot of fuel in their day and a lot of weather and condensation to create all sorts of problems.

 

[bullet18]

Do you have a fuel filter? I had a Dart that had crud in the tank, I'd change filter and again would clog up from crud in the tank. I changed tank to clear problem. We're talking about 50 + year old tanks that have seen a lot of fuel in their day and a lot of weather and condensation to create all sorts of problems.

I have a fuel filter before and after the pump.

 

[bullet18]

Still no luck starting it.

 

[pschlosser]

I would sort out if there is an electrical issue.

If turning the key fails to engage the starter motor, then its possible the ignition won't be powered when bypassing the safety switch.

After the starting circuit is tested, you'll want to test the ignition stays powered when the key is released in the "run" position.

After that, its all about fuel and spark. If it runs at all, you're getting spark.

So it comes down to fuel. If you have decent fuel pressure at the carb, then your carb may need a cleaning or inspection. If not, look at those double fuel filters.

 

[bullet18]

I would sort out if there is an electrical issue.

If turning the key fails to engage the starter motor, then its possible the ignition won't be powered when bypassing the safety switch.

After the starting circuit is tested, you'll want to test the ignition stays powered when the key is released in the "run" position.

After that, its all about fuel and spark. If it runs at all, you're getting spark.

So it comes down to fuel. If you have decent fuel pressure at the carb, then your carb may need a cleaning or inspection. If not, look at those double fuel

I have spark when im in run. And the starter cranks in start, just no spark in start.

 

[bullet18]

Its probably the neutral start switch being finicky. I just want to get it started before i go through the whole harness chasing down little problems.

 

[pschlosser]

If memory serves, you can bypass the neutral safety switch at the start relay on the fender well.

This is an automatic car, right?

(edit: I think it is an auto, I think I see the throttle pressure linkage in your engine photo)

That said, if it cranks when turning the key, the neutral safety switch isn't the problem, in my opinion. Once the car is started and the key is in Run position, the neutral safety switch doesn't normally come in to play.

 

[bullet18]

Just kidding, i think tightening up the voltage regulator fixed that. It fires in start now. Still wont run though.