70 Challenger Steering Issues

[cv70chall]

Happy New Year Everyone!

I'm having issues with the steering on my E-Body after replacing worn suspension parts.
I replaced the following:
Upper/ Lower Ball Joints
Inner/ Outer Tie Rod Ends
Idler Arm and Pittman Arm
Inner/ Outer Wheel Bearings
Front Shocks

The steering used to freely return when coming out of any turn (like every car) and now seems very stiff- and the wheel remains in whatever position I have it in.
I did notice the power steering belt was a little loose- which I will address tomorrow, but I don't think it would be the culprit.
I will also be taking the car in for an alignment check.

Any thoughts?

 

[Steve340]

Something you have fitted is binding is most likely. Do the wheels sort of appear "normal" when the car is on it's wheels. If not it could be the wheel alignment causing the problem.
Jack the car up to try and find the problem. It could be a bit tricky now it is all connected together.
I would fix any binding before an alignment or you may have to do it twice.
Good luck hope you find the issue.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Moisture. You might try changing the fluid.

Causes of Moisture Ingress​

Moisture can enter the power steering system through various pathways:

• Seals and Gaskets: Worn or damaged seals can allow moisture to seep in.
• Reservoir Cap: A compromised cap may fail to seal properly, letting moisture enter.
• Environmental Exposure: Power steering fluids are hygroscopic, meaning they naturally absorb moisture from the air.

 

[cv70chall]

Something you have fitted is binding is most likely. Do the wheels sort of appear "normal" when the car is on it's wheels. If not it could be the wheel alignment causing the problem.
Jack the car up to try and find the problem. It could be a bit tricky now it is all connected together.
I would fix any binding before an alignment or you may have to do it twice.
Good luck hope you find the issue.

Thanks! Yes, the wheels appear to sit normally and everything seems to move without anything hitting. There seems to be no issue when turning the wheels whilst off the ground. I know you really can't overtighten the castle nuts, as they have stops.

 

[cv70chall]

Moisture. You might try changing the fluid.

Definitely doing that! Thanks.

 

[cuda joe]

check the tie rod bolts they could be hitting the frame . did you unbolt the upper control arm bushings ?

 

[pschlosser]

If you want to take the time, disconnect the pitman arm with the front of the vehicle raised off the ground. One should be able to freely turn/steer the wheel/brake assemblies left and right. I mean, really freely, with just a few foot-pounds of pressure or one hand.

If it is seems stiff, you know the issue is in your suspension parts. Disconnect tie rod ends to isolate each brake assembly. Going this route, you'll be able to isolate the issue within an hour. You could have a bad ball joint or suspension part causing the binding.

If it turns freely, then you know to look at the steering box or something toward the steering wheel. Start the car and test the steering play and function, but given you have not changed anything in the steering column or box, I bet this will be fine.

If everything checks out, the issue may be wheel alignment. It is customary to perform a wheel alignment immediately following a front-end rebuild.

 

[pschlosser]

Oh yea, with the engine running (and the steering powered) and the front wheels off the ground, you should likewise be able to freely turn the wheels left and right. The steering wheel will turn on its own. But again, you should be able to freely change the steering by turning the wheels left and right.

 

[moparleo]

Obvious question, did you lubricate all of the ball joints and tie rod ends with the proper grease, or did you even lubricate them at all ?

 

[Xcudame]

After checking all the above, and it's OK, make sure you take your car to a place that's smart enough to set the ride height before attempting an alignment! Also, you want to use specifications from later B or R Body that has radial tires.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Caster corrects the steering , most of the front end will swing easily so maybe disconnect the pitman arm from the center link & see if the steering moves ok , possible the steering box is causing an issue

 

[Challenger RTA]

I like this one! KISS, Keep It Simple Sam!

Obvious question, did you lubricate all of the ball joints and tie rod ends with the proper grease, or did you even lubricate them at all ?

 

[cv70chall]

Obvious question, did you lubricate all of the ball joints and tie rod ends with the proper grease, or did you even lubricate them at all ?

For sure. Took the gun to all of the fittings.

 

[cv70chall]

If you want to take the time, disconnect the pitman arm with the front of the vehicle raised off the ground. One should be able to freely turn/steer the wheel/brake assemblies left and right. I mean, really freely, with just a few foot-pounds of pressure or one hand.

If it is seems stiff, you know the issue is in your suspension parts. Disconnect tie rod ends to isolate each brake assembly. Going this route, you'll be able to isolate the issue within an hour. You could have a bad ball joint or suspension part causing the binding.

If it turns freely, then you know to look at the steering box or something toward the steering wheel. Start the car and test the steering play and function, but given you have not changed anything in the steering column or box, I bet this will be fine.

If everything checks out, the issue may be wheel alignment. It is customary to perform a wheel alignment immediately following a front-end rebuild.

I replaced the Pittman arm first. The steering stiffness occurred after it was swapped out. The shocks and idler arm were replaced a week later- and the idler arm was definitely shot, although it did not affect the steering prior to being replaced. I guess I can check the Pittman- as it could be the issue.

 

[cv70chall]

check the tie rod bolts they could be hitting the frame . did you unbolt the upper control arm bushings ?

No, nothing above was touched.

 

[Ronbo73]

If the problem occurred right after the pitman arm was replaced, I would look there first. You may have over tightened the bolt that attaches it to the subframe. If I remember correctly, I think my pitman arm had a sleeve inside the rubber and would only tighten to the length of the sleeve. I can't remember the torque setting for the pitman arm, I know that some here will know off the top of the their head.

 

[Challenger RTA]

If the problem occurred right after the pitman arm was replaced, I would look there first.

Good point!
I think your thinking of the Idler arm. But I agree to start there. Maybe of a tooth off or two. Through the geometry off.

 

[cv70chall]

Good point!
I think your thinking of the Idler arm. But I agree to start there. Maybe of a tooth of two. Through the geometry off.

Actually, I replaced the Pittman arm first (at the steering box)- and the issue began after that. I will check for the sleeve, if it is over-tightend- and if it might be off by a tooth or two. Thanks!

 

[Xcudame]

175 ft-lbs for the arm the gear nut. Every pitman arm I've ever installed had a master spline to prevent any tooth misalignment, but who knows what kind of Chinese crap is out there these days!