Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
I have a few more to post. I'll try to post that now. I have a few snowflake to go move.
'70 Vert - waited long enough...
- Thread starter Cuda416
- Start date
Very much appreciated!
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Here's the 0 body line. As I was saying . The top of the rockers just might be 0 body line. It would be a good refence.
I always wondered how to read that diagram and that makes sense.
Looks like the rear shackle mounts are 8" above the "0" line (rocker) which is then 6.2" above the bottom of the frame rail for a 14.2 total, then with my 6.25" datum line, my shackle mounts "should" be 20.45" above the datum.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
I was going to say to build a jig. Silly me! I looked back and seen what you did.
The other measurements I post. You can lay a level or straight edge across the jig and measure. I'll post some now and later.
The other measurements I post. You can lay a level or straight edge across the jig and measure. I'll post some now and later.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Back
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Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Here again. There would be 3 1/2 " off the back measurements. Being it was zeroed on the top of the head unit on the bottom of the frame rail. All the one's I sent at this point are from that bench mark.
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Fantastic. Taking your measurements and combining them with the drawing you posted, it all makes sense!
Now I can with confidence put the height of the rear, where it "should" be and verify everything is lined up.
Thanks again!
Corey
Now I can with confidence put the height of the rear, where it "should" be and verify everything is lined up.
Thanks again!
Corey
larry4406
Well-Known Member
I think the divot in question is the location of where the power window wiring grommet goes.
Thanks for that. I'd not even considered it was where they would pop a hole into. Thanks!
Did some quick measurements on the car just now and holy-smokes was the back end sitting low. If were wearing hiphuggers I'd be making fun of it...
Turns out I'm just over an inch low at the shackle mount which is also shown at the rear door gap being way too wide at the top. To test the "one inch" I did a quick cad drawing to represent the location of the mount, the front top of the quarter and the bottom rear of the door. Rotating the whole thing up, using the lower door corner area as the pivot, moves the top of the "quarter panel" forward almost 3/8" so yeah, I'll be triple checking my datum height, then raising the rear to adjust for reality.
Also decided to bite the bullet and order the Dyancorn inner cowl panels and man they are so much nicer than the AMD part. Glad I made that decision.
Now I need to decide if I'm keeping with quarter "skins" which I bought when AMD discontinued them, or ditch them and go for full quarters and cut them to make vert panels.
Turns out I'm just over an inch low at the shackle mount which is also shown at the rear door gap being way too wide at the top. To test the "one inch" I did a quick cad drawing to represent the location of the mount, the front top of the quarter and the bottom rear of the door. Rotating the whole thing up, using the lower door corner area as the pivot, moves the top of the "quarter panel" forward almost 3/8" so yeah, I'll be triple checking my datum height, then raising the rear to adjust for reality.
Also decided to bite the bullet and order the Dyancorn inner cowl panels and man they are so much nicer than the AMD part. Glad I made that decision.
Now I need to decide if I'm keeping with quarter "skins" which I bought when AMD discontinued them, or ditch them and go for full quarters and cut them to make vert panels.
Getting ready to purchase a laser level to verify the car is indeed "level" before doing anything else.
To that and I have a couple of questions.
1. Most of the levels I've seen are accurate to "1/9" or just over 0.1" over 33 ft. Since the car is less than half that, is that accurate enough?
2. Does anyone have a favorite brand that's not several hundred dollars?
3. Finally, I'm in the market for a decent "diy" level tram gauge. So again, any recommdations?
Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
To that and I have a couple of questions.
1. Most of the levels I've seen are accurate to "1/9" or just over 0.1" over 33 ft. Since the car is less than half that, is that accurate enough?
2. Does anyone have a favorite brand that's not several hundred dollars?
3. Finally, I'm in the market for a decent "diy" level tram gauge. So again, any recommdations?
Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Probably good enough. I don't think they were near that precisely put together originally.
While that's a very fair statement is seems as though where they were pretty good was the chassis level stuff such that we actually have dimensions everyone seems to use so I'm trying to be as accurate as possible.
The dimensions I've seen people take of just the front end parts (inner fenders, core support etc) all match the empty hulk of a challenger front clip I have in the back yard.
I appreciate the reply and do tend to agree for a lot of things but, I just want piece of mind I guess.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The instrument is not as important as the use of the user. The hammer you have is it big enough or do you need a bigger one.
I completely agree with this and basically what I'm saying. I could use a level, but I don't trust "my" use of them. I could use the rockers themselves as "winding sticks" but again, lack of experience and not trusting my vision keeps me from doing it.
I want to stack the deck in my favor.
When I started this whole thing I made some assumptions I shouldn't have partially because of inexperience and partially because I'm impatient and impulsive at times. So I'm going back to basics and verifying what is supposed to be ground truth. The car needs to be level first. The car needs to be measured, again. I need to check and re-check.
Once I'm happy I've covered those things, then I'll try moving forward. The good thing is every time I look at things again, t's from a different perspective and I learning more and more.
Thanks
-=C
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The lasers that are other there are more than likely good enough for what you want to do. Your not going 100' to 400' on any kind of control line. Those lasers have an X and Y axis that has to be checked. They can be field calibrated. Get any laser level (Harbor Freight) and the bubble will be off a little. For most there is no calibration to adjust. There not built like a machinist level. when you set up the laser check the start and end point. Pay no attention to the bubble. If you do turn the level 180 degrees and check. That will show how much the level is off. So minute it wont matter.
Plain and simple a string line is a straight line. All depends who it's set up and used.
A Harbor Freight level is good enough for what if for. I think about 50' you see line separation. Meaning you will see dots and dashes.
Plain and simple a string line is a straight line. All depends who it's set up and used.
A Harbor Freight level is good enough for what if for. I think about 50' you see line separation. Meaning you will see dots and dashes.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
In a sense no. The work is of the 0 body line or the datum line. And yes it helps a lot for less error if the jig or car is level. Measure twice cut once.
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