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Acc side of fuse box doa

Cratos

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Any idea what would cause just the acc side of the fuse box to quit working?? everything is new all ne harnesses, accept the column harness ( I have a I did it column I will be installing in the near future) everything was working fine in till last weekend I went out to go for a ride and nothing on the ac side worked? Radio, ac, back up lights, and tach, I don’t want to put the new column in in till I get this figured out.
 

Chryco Psycho

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it is switched through the ign switch so I would check at the bottom of the column first , could be a bad connection or a faulty ign switch
 

Cratos

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unplugged it, and it looks ok no burned or broken wires. I have not taken apart the top yet.
 

Cratos

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I have power to the fat black wire coming from the switch, under column but nothing at the fuse box?
 

Chryco Psycho

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I need to look at a wirin diaram , I believe blue feeds te accessory side of te fuse block
 

Slotts

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The "fat" black wire that is in the dash harness connector that connects to the ignition switch is labeled in the FSM is Q-12BK does not connect directly to the fuse block on the back side buss strip. There is an internal splice that combines this wire, along with wires feeding the turn signal switch D1-18K, the voltage limiter input G1-18BK and the wiper switch input V1-16P. All of the other devices that are not receiving power that you mentioned in your first post come from fused side of the ACC buss strip.

You could narrow down your search by seeing if your turn signals and wiper are working. If they are, it is pointing towards your fuse block.

Just curious. We all know that M&H does not provide the correct 70 fuse block on their 70 dash harnesses. Perhaps, did you remove that fuse block and use the correct 70 fuse block from your old harness? If so, pull the fuse block away from your bulk head connector, then disconnect the "fat" black wire Q2A-12BK from the back ACC buss strip and see if you have power on that wire.

Jim
 

Cratos

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it was all working the first 1000 miles, head light, wiper and ts are all working.
 

Cratos

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ignition switch bad when turned backwards to acc I have power but nit when in run position ..I was going to put tin an tilt column anyway just moved it up the list
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Cratos

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replaced column with tilt one and new switch I now have power to the thick black wire but still nothing at the acc side of the fuse box!! I am hoping it is not the hard splice connection in the harness. I will be puling the fuse box off the firewall and check the feed wire there tomorrow. weird it worked fine the first 1000 miles now this ??
 

Chryco Psycho

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Have you checked behind the fuse block , unsnapped it from the bulkhead ? Possibly the wire that feeds the bus strip on that side is loose corroded or disconnected
 

Cratos

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all new wiring and fuse box worked fine for 1000 mile then quit. replace column and switch no I have power at the connector now . I will be pulling the fuse block off this weekend to check for broken wire.
 

Cratos

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I Found out (after hours contorted under the dash AGAIN) that the black feed wire at the inside of the fuse box was the culprit I was wiggling the main harness and the test light would come on and off. Pulled the fuse box out again and did not see anything looking loose?? Wire seamed tight ( not much you can move around with the x keeper but I could get it to go on and off ( test light) so I used needle nose plyers to squeeze the female connector on the spade on the buss bar and now I have power again!!!!

All the wiring and fuse box was new, so I do not understand why @ 800 miles it worked its way loose. Just my buddy Murphy I guess as usual the car lives up to its name GRINCH.
 

Chryco Psycho

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I have had a contract out on Murphy for decades , no one can seem to locate him even tho he is always around !
 

Cratos

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the black wire was loose and had been arcing put a new connector on.( not much extra wire to work with)
 
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