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BY passing charging gauge 70 challenger

Challenger RTA

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I also read 1"And (wire) “terminal illness” at firewall connectors has also been a major problem."

2 "Typical Dodge electrical problems result from a very antiquated power distribution system. The main source of power for the Dodge electrical system is based upon an old design AMP gauge at the dash and related wiring system. It’s a system that worked okay with a very small electrical system on Model A Fords way back in the late 1920’s. But the old AMP-gauge-at-the-dash system is not reliable with increased current loads of the more modern electrical system."

3 "The rusty appearance of this terminal is typical of wire terminals that have been hot while handling large amounts of current flow. (If moisture had caused the oxidation, all the terminals would have been corroded.)
amp capacity gauge"

Also a concern to me is to have the 2nd source right off the back of the power feed from alternator protected.
4 "We have also used the proper Fusible Link wires for short circuit protection. A 14 gauge Fusible link is protecting the 10 black wire circuit to the alternator. And a 16 gauge Fusible link protects the power-up wires to the “welded splice,” which serves as main power distribution to the dash area."

My personal experience in the 70's A 69 Newport in the dead of winter I had a battery in the trunk to start the car.The car would run all day with out acc but would not start or charge. To cold outside to fix. 79 Ramcharger I was already versed on the matter.
My conclusion the Police and Taxi package where installed for a reason, Reliability. An amp gauge has a limited capacity. One has to understand the complete article. If the system is not over loaded it would be fine.But that would never happen. Only in a perfect world.
 
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U_Cuda

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It's always just a matter of time! even with a new harness. At lest you caught the problem before it became disaster. Also check the foot dimmer switch.
NOT if you repair the wiring and KEEP the aftermarket junk away from them. Problem is the LOOSE CONNECTIONS, (From Factories, DAY 1) and the 12 ga wire from ALT to AMMETER. Which should be a 10ga wire. 😉 Alternators disperse AMPERAGE, not so much "Voltage". Why Batteries are rated in AMPS. ⚡⚡⚡
 

moparleo

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moparleo

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The alternaters job is not as a battery charger.
Its' job is to maintain the state of charge on the battery, but primarily to power all the other accesories.
The very first thing that you do when servicing or diagnosing an electrical issue is to check the battery's state of charge.
Everything from there on depends on this. If the battery needs to be charged it should be load tested first to make sure it is still in good condition.
The charging procedure should be the same as cooking a thick piece of meat. Low amps (temp), long time. Low and slow. to cook through, in this case to thorugh cleans the sulfates from the lead plates inside your battery.
 

Mikes72

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I’ll use 8ga for the charge circuit wires, and a single 12ga fusible link at the starter relay as I plan for running high output alternators and several additional non-stock loads, all on the alternator side of the ammeter. Another fusible link at the alternator is not necessary.
View attachment 102405Another

I’ll use 8ga for the charge circuit wires, and a single 12ga fusible link at the starter relay as I plan for running high output alternators and several additional non-stock loads, all on the alternator side of the ammeter. Another fusible link at the alternator is not necessary.
View attachment 102405Another
I’ve been reading through this entire post for better understanding of this issue and your resolution. In this pic it looks like you have a 12ga fusible link on both the relay starter connection (grey) and the battery post going to the ammeter (lt blue). Why did you add the one on the starter connection and did you increase the wire gauge from the starter to the relay? TIA Mike.
 

72RoadRunnerGTX

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I’ve been reading through this entire post for better understanding of this issue and your resolution. In this pic it looks like you have a 12ga fusible link on both the relay starter connection (grey) and the battery post going to the ammeter (lt blue). Why did you add the one on the starter connection and did you increase the wire gauge from the starter to the relay? TIA Mike.
The pictured grey fuse link wire is part of the reproduction battery cable, is the solenoid activation run. For some reason they ran the entire length to the starter using fuse link wire. Only the blue 12 ga fusible link is part of the charging system upgrade.

If you haven’t seen this video, contains more details.
 

Mikes72

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The pictured grey fuse link wire is part of the reproduction battery cable, is the solenoid activation run. For some reason they ran the entire length to the starter using fuse link wire. Only the blue 12 ga fusible link is part of the charging system upgrade.

If you haven’t seen this video, contains more details.

Thanks RR. That video was easy to follow and clarified what I was needing to know.
 
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