Clutch ticking noise

[KPB]

Hi all,

After a drive where I occasionally used the clutch a bit more "firmly", everything still felt and sounded normal. I then parked the car for 1–2 hours, and only when setting off again did I notice a new ticking noise. At first, I suspected an exhaust leak, as I thought I could also hear it when standing next to the car, and it initially went away quite quickly as the engine warmed up. Later, however, it seemed more related to the clutch – appearing whenever the clutch pedal was pressed, from just lightly touching it to fully depressed.

• Sound: “ting-ting-ting”, varies with engine speed
• Sometimes disappears as the engine warms up, but not consistently
• Can persist for a while, but also go away after a mile
• Driving and shifting still feel completely normal

My first thought is the throw-out bearing, though I’ve had a defective one before that made more of a “howling” noise rather than ticking… so I’m wondering if there could be other possible causes. Any ideas or similar experiences?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have had the surface of the disc break away , I would pull the cover & inspect closely .
What brand , How new ?

 

[KPB]

Can't really say, came with the car, at least 11 years old..

 

[Steve340]

I heard a clutch make a sort of ticking noise once - it was a bent/cracked release arm of the pressure plate.
This clutch did work but was somewhat juddery when you tried to get moving from stopped.

 

[KPB]

Get moving feels pretty much the same as always; it’s only the noise that stands out. I still need to test it again next week — the last time I parked it in the garage, the noise disappeared. I also have a shop appointment next week so they can take a look, but it’s good to have a few clues I can pass along to them.

Just in case the entire clutch assembly ends up needing replacement... any advice on how to positively identify the correct parts? Are there any part numbers or casting numbers that can be seen through the bellhousing inspection cover? Shipping takes a while to get here, and I can’t leave the car sitting at the shop for weeks or have them pull the drivetrain apart twice.

 

[Steve340]

Talk to Brewers.

 

[Challenger RTA]

ticking noise

It's probably a Ford or Chevy that got caught under when passing them.

Post a video on Youtube then post a link here. Someone here might know what it it.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

You should have a 130 tooth flywheel so you need a 10.95" setup , the disc could be 23 spline [ more likely ] or 18 spline HD trans .
I would use McLoud or Ram or Zoom , Stay away from Centerforce garbage , I prefer to use factory Bog & Beck 3 finger type over Diaphragm type as the factory system is design
for the 3 finger type , throw distance & removal of the overcenter spring is usually different with Diaphragm type

 

[KPB]

It's probably a Ford or Chevy that got caught under when passing them.

Post a video on Youtube then post a link here. Someone here might know what it it.

Ok will try it but can only do by next week when going home

You should have a 130 tooth flywheel so you need a 10.95" setup , the disc could be 23 spline [ more likely ] or 18 spline HD trans .

The reason why I'm asking is also because originally it was a 3 speed manual and I have no idea what had to be changed for the 4 speed. But let's see what is really needed in the end...

 

[lainetx9]

I prefer the "Diaphragm" pressure plate over the "3 finger" type only for drivability, but not for racing. The diaphragm is a smooth action while depressing the clutch, and lets out smoothly as well. The 3 finger is pretty aggresive and harder to engage and disengage (unless your a muscle man with a strong left leg). I do have bothe styles in a couple of my ebody cars, and the drivability is much more confortable w/ a diaphragm style. That`s just my opinion. Thanks

 

[chilsam]

throw out bearing ?

 

[KPB]

As promised a video of the noise. Sounds even more grinding than ticking or a combination of both.
Thursday in shop...

 

[sixpactogo]

Sounds like the throw-out bearing to me.

 

[KPB]

Good that I have video evidence now. Car has been sitting here a few hours and now... Nothing.

 

[Steve340]

Make sure you check the crankshaft end thrust.
Just to be sure it is in spec.

 

[lainetx9]

Remove the flywheel inspection cover and retest

 

[KPB]

After almost an eternity an update! Shop diagnosed most probably the throwout bearing to be the problem so I ordered one.

Meanwhile I went for a test drive and had to realize the ticking had become persistent. . At least for the moment.

Last week I brought them the car for installation of the bearing. At that point no noise, of course not!
After they replaced it this specific noise was gone but I thought I still heard something strange. Maybe paranoid.

Well, not really. After a test drive today the ticking was back but not the same, again persistent, not affected by clutch pressure.
After letting her sit 2 hours... Instant vanishing of the noise.

I don't know if they have checked crank thrust but will ask next week.
Otherwise I call an exorcist....

 

[Daves69]

Do you know if the bell housing was indicated in with all attaching bolts torqued to spec?

I've heard some clutch covers can have conflicts with bell housings. One point is mentioned in the MP bible although it's a small block comment..........

Some bell housing info here may be helpful......

Mopar Big-Block A-Body 4-Speed Conversion

 

[maxzcc]

Hi all,

After a drive where I occasionally used the clutch a bit more "firmly", everything still felt and sounded normal. I then parked the car for 1–2 hours, and only when setting off again did I notice a new ticking noise. At first, I suspected an exhaust leak, as I thought I could also hear it when standing next to the car, and it initially went away quite quickly as the engine warmed up. Later, however, it seemed more related to the clutch – appearing whenever the clutch pedal was pressed, from just lightly touching it to fully depressed.

• Sound: “ting-ting-ting”, varies with engine speed
• Sometimes disappears as the engine warms up, but not consistently
• Can persist for a while, but also go away after a mile
• Driving and shifting still feel completely normal

My first thought is the throw-out bearing, though I’ve had a defective one before that made more of a “howling” noise rather than ticking… so I’m wondering if there could be other possible causes. Any ideas or similar experiences?

Thanks in advance!

From what you are describing it does sound like a "throw-out bearing". It will change sound as the car warms up, and will also change with different amounts of pressure applied to the clutch pedal and is RPM related. When the release bearing has worn and lost it's lubrication it will make a high pitched squeal but if one of the balls in the bearing has deteriorated it could make a ticking noise. Back in the day those release bearings had a zerk fitting on them to allow them to be greased. Yes, I'm old...Depending on how loud or annoying it is it will probably function OK for a while but if it intensifies or starts the high pitched squeal it will need to be replaced. The release bearing transfers pressure from the clutch pedal assembly via the clutch fork to the clutch pressure plate diaphragm or fingers. Any noise or excessive friction will cause wear or damage to either.

 

[KPB]

Do you know if the bell housing was indicated in with all attaching bolts torqued to spec?

Sorry I don't know how they got the transmission out to be honest. I only heard it was a bit complicated as the tunnel was in the way. But when the noise changed from clutch activated to permanent (depending on temperature as far as I could observe) transmission was still mounted as it has been for years.

From what you are describing it does sound like a "throw-out bearing". It will change sound as the car warms up, and will also change with different amounts of pressure applied to the clutch pedal and is RPM related. When the release bearing has worn and lost it's lubrication it will make a high pitched squeal but if one of the balls in the bearing has deteriorated it could make a ticking noise. Back in the day those release bearings had a zerk fitting on them to allow them to be greased. Yes, I'm old...Depending on how loud or annoying it is it will probably function OK for a while but if it intensifies or starts the high pitched squeal it will need to be replaced. The release bearing transfers pressure from the clutch pedal assembly via the clutch fork to the clutch pressure plate diaphragm or fingers. Any noise or excessive friction will cause wear or damage to either.

The bearing has been replaced, I hope they checked for wear on the fingers though...

Maybe on one of the next weekends I have time to lift the car up and have a closer look.