Dash Harness - Classic Industries or Year One?

[JoeNY]

Well, it looks like I'm going to have to buy a dash harness. Anyone have suggestions between the Classic Industries $679 or the Year One $799 choices?

 

[don selleck]

Year one had some back order issues, not sure if they have been resolved, I just did a M+H harness complete for my cuda pretty nice for stock set up. Looks like a 1970. If classic is M+H I would try it.

 

[pschlosser]

that surface rust at the fuse terminals is easily treated with many OTC rust products. even soaking in vinegar water, scrubbing with an old tooth brush, and then lubricating the newly exposed metal fuse clips with a silicon grease will last... 30+ years, I'm predicting.

but to soak the fuse (box, more or less) in an acid solution may require pulling the whole dash assembly from the car, so the wiring harness may be extracted. in the end, it's the same amount of work, just without the replacement wiring harness.

a dremel tool with a tiny wire brush may do the trick without removing anything (but the fuses) and when you put fresh fuses in, lubricate them with the dielectric (silicon in many cases) grease.

 

[Xcudame]

Year One is good about standing behind their products. I think that's the reason some stuff costs more. But anyone making a dash harness should be pretty decent these days!

If only we could talk Bill and Evie Evans (Evans Wiring) into making dash harnesses! But I can understand why they don't.

 

[Challenger RTA]

it looks like I'm going to have to buy a dash harness.

I wouldn't think so. You will have the same inherent problems. In short no pun intended. the wires for the load (Alternator feed)and battery ( for stating and changing battery) are one of the problems. An other common one is the headlight load on the wiring. A headlight relay circuit is a fix. the last but not least is the fan load for heater or AC. The fix is a relay circuit under hood feed or a AUX fuse box to feed other accessories. Feed VIA foot washer pump gourmet. Here again feed needs to come from the alternator feed some how. That leads to an Alternator feed bypass.

Bulkhead and amp meter bypass.
Here are some examples of what can be done. Not saying what is correct for your application. Connecting to the starter relay circuit is eclectically the same in this manner. BUT the gauge of wire from the relay to the battery is not adequate. That's why it should be connected to the starter feed or directly to the battery. Also a headlight relay circuit would be advisable. The main point of it is that the load is electrically connected to the alternator. That being said. Splice one also has to be feed from the alternator. The alternator never was a on a fusible link that feed splice one. It would be advisable to place one there. As it was said before the the diodes would or might blow before any damage . But why take a chance. View attachment 141943
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that surface rust at the fuse terminals is easily treated with many OTC rust products.

That is all it is. Clean and treat as mentioned. Each load side fuse holder can be removed and cleaned.