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DIY Home Alignment?

toolmanmike

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You can measure toe and camber but not aster without alignment heads. (and slip plates are highly recommended)
 

Dodgeboy

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You can measure toe and camber but not aster without alignment heads. (and slip plates are highly recommended)
I turn the wheel 20° left (driverside), zero the gauge, then turn the wheel straight + another 20° and thats the caster. I use my hub stands on car dollies (with jacking up the rear so ride height is the same) and then sometimes i will double check it with the tires on, on the ground, with the wheels sitting on garbage bags (cheapest turn plates out there). The same procedure that you get when you buy those camber/caster gauges. Adjusting it is easier on the hub stands as the tires not in the way
 

i_taz

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Here's my experience with Chryco's front end method. At first I had pretty bad cupping on the outside edge after less than 50 miles, so added a heavy locking washer, about a 1/16" thick on each lower ball joint bolt and seems to work well. Zero wonder, tracks great and tires seems happy after a few hundred miles. Will report back if any problems...
 

PLUM_72

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I always start with setting the castor to max so the front adjusters all the way out & the rear all the way inward
I am having a hard time picturing this. Is it the nut/bolt part or the egg of the cam? Meaning on the front for max caster the nut/bolt should be closest to the inner fender and the rear adjuster the nut/bolt part closest to the engine? Or do I have this backwards?
 

cuda joe

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to get max caster the upper ball joint needs to be as far back toward the fire wall as you can get it and still have good camber.. it;s best to.lift the wheels off the ground suspension hanging when adjusting the cam bolts
 
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