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Edelbrock 1406 Carb Install 73 Challenger with 318

Fordication

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Hi again. So I got the intake and the carburetor and about to install them. I also have the 1481 adapter. What else will I need to install and use this carb on my car. 1973 Challenger with 318. Installing a 1406 on it. Does anyone have photos of a similar installation?
 
You'll need the correct kickdown linkage assembly (or Lokar cable and bracket if going that way) assuming it's an automatic. You'll need a carburator linkage stud for the throttle cable and kickdown linkage. Plus you'll need a 12 volt wire (ignition controlled) for the choke. A four barrel will be a nice power adder for your 318.

When assembling, I like to put a little bead of silicon sealer at the four corners of the block and heads once the gaskets are installed. I don't like oil leaks.
 
You'll need the correct kickdown linkage assembly (or Lokar cable and bracket if going that way) assuming it's an automatic. You'll need a carburator linkage stud for the throttle cable and kickdown linkage. Plus you'll need a 12 volt wire (ignition controlled) for the choke. A four barrel will be a nice power adder for your 318.

When assembling, I like to put a little bead of silicon sealer at the four corners of the block and heads once the gaskets are installed. I don't like oil leaks.
Does anyone have a photo of this linkage stud. Not worried about the kickdown assembly for now.
 
What do you have other than the carb and 4bbl factory intake manifold?
Virtually everything between the factory 2bbl set up and 4 bbl set up is different.
The 4bbl carb is mounted further forward on top of the engine and taller.
So everything tends to be too low and too short.
Manifold bracket, different New one is taller and farther forward. This also moves the gas pedal cable farther forward.
You really need to care about the kick down linkage before you try to move this car as the linkage controls internal transmission pressures and you can damage the transmission using the car with out it connected and properly adjusted.
So Show us a picture of what you are working with if you want information that is going to do you some good.
We ca look up a picture of that carb, be we don't know anything else that you have.
Remember that we are no there looking at exactly what you are working with, so we have to just guess a lot of things.
Also install new fuel filter and air filter.
Great time to freshen up the ignition system with new cap, rotor and quality wires.
Replace any vacuum hoses and similar things.
Always best to start off new.
Get timing adjusted properly with out vacuum connected.
This is just information for anyone doing a carb/ manifold replacement.

Use new clamps . fuel hoses and intake bolts, new thermostat, New by pass hose and clamps as well.
Torque everything to specs and in the proper order.
This is where your Service Manual really come in handy, instead of just asking everybody questions.
The information is already there for you.
Not somebodies opinion but the Factory specifications and procedures.


carb-linkage-stud.png


001411 edelbrock carb.jpg


340 THROTTLE LINKAGE.jpg


318 carb trans linkage.png


360-kick down linkage diagram - Copy.jpg


318 4 BBL LINKAGE 3.JPG


70_71_Mopar_Parts_4-bbl-kickdown-linkage.jpg


788155-0fcef4222e18ef34af38603c4df8ea78.jpg


788156-c3080050e1376866af819a5f1330ee6e.jpg


AFB LINKAGE.jpg
 
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Sent many pictures of how guys have done this at home. A few were done properly but not all.
The most important hing to remember is that linkage alignment is based on proper angles.
Everything should align in a straight line. in both planes.
Pictures six with the blue valve covers and the last picture, show that everything is parallel to each other and also level.
 
Sent many pictures of how guys have done this at home. A few were done properly but not all.
The most important thing to remember is that linkage alignment is based on proper angles.
Everything should align in a straight line. in both planes.
Picrues six with the blue valve covers and the last picture, show that everything is parallel to each other and also level.
Here is the download link for free Mopar Factory Service Manuals.
Save this link somewhere.

Click here ----------------------> Service Manuals – MyMopar
Be the guy who can answer more questions than he asks.
Look it up yourself. Quick being so lazy guys !
Copy the pages and printout as needed. Use the Diagrams. Use this book a lot.
I have been collecting pictures, articles, books, pamphlets etc for over 40 years.
I am always finding more information out there.
Share it, don't forget it or lose it.
 
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What do you have other than the carb and 4bbl factory intake manifold?
Virtually everything between the factory 2bbl set up and 4 bbl set up is different.
The 4bbl carb is mounted further forward on top of the engine and taller.
So everything tends to be too low and too short.
Manifold bracket, different New one is taller and farther forward. This also moves the gas pedal cable farther forward.
You really need to care about the kick down linkage before you try to move this car as the linkage controls internal transmission pressures and you can damage the transmission using the car with out it connected and properly adjusted.
So Show us a picture of what you are working with if you want information that is going to do you some good.
We ca look up a picture of that carb, be we don't know anything else that you have.
Remember that we are no there looking at exactly what you are working with, so we have to just guess a lot of things.
Also install new fuel filter and air filter.
Great time to freshen up the ignition system with new cap, rotor and quality wires.
Replace any vacuum hoses and similar things.
Always best to start off new.
Get timing adjusted properly with out vacuum connected.
This is just information for anyone doing a carb/ manifold replacement.

Use new clamps . fuel hoses and intake bolts, new thermostat, New by pass hose and clamps as well.
Torque everything to specs and in the proper order.
This is where your Service Manual really come in handy, instead of just asking everybody questions.
The information is already there for you.
Not somebodies opinion but the Factory specifications and procedures.


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This is exactly what I needed.
 
Yes, all new hoses. All new clamps. All new gaskets. Everything else was new before I took it there. All new electrical, all new fuel lines, all new fuel filter. All new distributor. New heads, new cam, new timing chain, new lifters, new pushrods, new intake and new carb. They wanted to replace the AC compressor, and I told them hell no. Other than what's in the engine and the new carb and intake, leave it original. No one can see the carb anyways. I will rebuild that V-twin compressor if it needs it, but I do not think it does. New thermostat and gaskets as well. Not sure I am going to use the spacer but I may.
 
Everything else was new before I took it there
Took what, where, for what reason. New what ? Factory Mopar branded parts ?
Yes, all new hoses. All new clamps. All new gaskets. Everything else was new before I took it there. All new electrical, all new fuel lines, all new fuel filter. All new distributor. New heads, new cam, new timing chain, new lifters, new pushrods, new intake and new carb. They wanted to replace the AC compressor, and I told them hell no. Other than what's in the engine and the new carb and intake, leave it original. No one can see the carb anyways. I will rebuild that V-twin compressor if it needs it, but I do not think it does. New thermostat and gaskets as well. Not sure I am going to use the spacer but I may.
Totally confused here.

This is exactly why you should post a photograph, instead of a couple of word description.
Who would guess that actually someone else was working on this car and " replaced"everything.
I was just trying to throw information out there since I had no idea exactly what you were doing.
A Picture is worth a thousand words is especially relevant in situations like this.
.I still don't know exactly what you got out of this other than "exactly what I needed"
What was exactly what you needed ?
I am sure that there is a lot more to this story............. ???
Good luck,I hope you got the info that you wanted.
 
Took what, where, for what reason. New what ? Factory Mopar branded parts ?

Totally confused here.

This is exactly why you should post a photograph, instead of a couple of word description.
Who would guess that actually someone else was working on this car and " replaced"everything.
I was just trying to throw information out there since I had no idea exactly what you were doing.
A Picture is worth a thousand words is especially relevant in situations like this.
.I still don't know exactly what you got out of this other than "exactly what I needed"
What was exactly what you needed ?
I am sure that there is a lot more to this story............. ???
Good luck,I hope you got the info that you wanted.
I cannot post a photo of the work ongoing because it is as a speed shop. Reason being is I tried for 2 months to trouble shoot the car and could not figure out why it would not stay running. I changed out all of the fuel lines the filter. I rebuilt the carb and did compression test on the cylinders. I replaced spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor, resister, etc. I did everything everyone here told me to try then after 2 months and almost $1000 out of pocket I took it to a shop to repair. While there they found that valves were not closing on 3 exhaust valves so I had the heads rebuilt. Then I found a cache of part in Alabama and bought them to put on this engine. 302 heads that were recently rebuilt. Comp cam cam and lifters. After market push rods, and double row timing chain. Edelbrock intake and carb. I took all of it to the shop and told them to install everything along with new gaskets. I have been here for several months talking about what I am doing and this is the end result and your photos are going to help me finish it.
 
Perfect example of not having an auto forum try to diagnose your problem for you.
You pay the bill.
And without actually being there and knowing exactly the whole story, people will just throw darts at the wall with different guesses. Your dime.
This is why you go to a shop to begin with. You don't try to learn with a non stock engine combo. Experience costs money.
If it doesn't work, it is your nickel. When it goes to a qualified shop, guesses are their nickel.
And when you have a problem the finger points at them not yourself.
You want to learn about engines and ignition system s ?
Buy an old car without any modifications done to it and do your research
Read a LOT. Always use Factory Service Manuals.
Tackle one area at a time and master that area. Don't get into carb jetting, distributor advance recurving etc... Just looking to get confused and into trouble.
Always need to walk properly before you try to run.
See if there is a trade school in your area. Find a mentor. Join a local car club.
 
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