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Engine idle not working

Have you considered the possibility of a blocked exhaust? Maybe a heat riser valve stuck shut? Or along those lines an EGR valve that's stuck open.. or since you had mentioned messing around with the vacuum lines early on, maybe inadvertently hooking a vacuum line that has full manifold vacuum to the EGR valve holding it open?
Exhaust is barely hanging on by a thread. There are so many holes in it, it was the first thing on my list to replace. Already bought a flowmaster fx 2.5 inch muffler for it. Installed new kyb gas adjust shocks yesterday. New pcv valve today. Bought all new belts and hoses and was going to flush the transmission and replace the filter and gaskets. Already flushed power steering and brake system but found that the rubber gasket on the master cylinder cover has hardened and will not seal properly so ordered a new gasket then sanded the flat surfaces on the master cylinder so that when the new gasket gets here, I can have a good seal. All of this since Tuesday morning.
 
If it does have an original plastic camshaft timing gear, it only takes one startup from a running car to jump a tooth. Back in the day, my brother and I used to get Mopars cheap that didn't "run" and just needed a new timing set!
To me this is what I suspect. So there is plastic on this timing camshaft timing gear?
 
Camshaft gear looks something like this. Notice it has "broken" teeth.

plastic time gear.jpg
 
Camshaft gear looks something like this. Notice it has "broken" teeth.

View attachment 151806
Many years ago I was racing a camaro and when I floored the pedal I heard a "kapow" from the engine and it died. Towed it to the base auto hobby shop and found the nylon timing gear had sheared. Pump screen and pan was full of nylon. Definitely the Achilles heel of our OE style classic engines!
 
If the timing chain jumped a tooth retarding the cam, the ignition timing will be way off as well since the distributor is driven by the camshaft. Something to look for.
 
some easy fuel delivery tests.

1. disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor, and direct the line to a container. have a helper crank the engine for 10 seconds or so, and observe the amount of fuel that comes out, and if there is any debris and junk in the fluid. did the stream of fuel flow in squirts, like a heartbeat squirts blood out of a carotid artery in a violent movie. how much fuel dispensed with 10 seconds of cranking? 8 ounces or so?

2. with the AVS carburetor (for example) the fuel fills float bowls. if the engine is dying because of fuel starvation, once it dies, carefully remove the top cover from the carburetor base, and observe how much fuel is in the float bowls. they should be about half-full. but are they dry or really low, like 1/8 to 1/4 inch full.

3. again on the AVS carburetor, with the engine off, when you manually operate the throttle, does fuel squirt out the accelerator pump tubes onto the barrels? is it a nice decent stream?

4. when you "rebuilt" and cleaned the carburetor, did you find obvious junk within it and/or stuff at the bottom of the float bowls.

5. there is screen on the pickup tube inside the fuel tank. if there is a bunch of rust and debris inside the tank, (it would take 8 ounces of debris or more) if could be plugging up the pickup. while it's possible the screen has worn out or torn, chances are, it has not, and the fuel lines are clear. you would have to drain the majority of fuel to remove the sending unit to inspect the screen to see if there is junk caked onto it.

6. prior to the carburetor rebuild, when the engine died, did it die immediately after releasing the key? if so, you may have an electrical, ignition, or ballast resistor issue. how is the health of the spark while cranking? and the cleanliness of the cap and rotor area? points ignition, battery voltage, etc? do the spark plugs look healthy?
So what is the flow of gas coming from the fuel pump supposed to look like. I am not putting pressure gauge on this thing. I just want to know is the pump supposed to pump the gas like ever 4 revolutions of the cam or what?
 
So what is the flow of gas coming from the fuel pump supposed to look like. I am not putting pressure gauge on this thing. I just want to know is the pump supposed to pump the gas like ever 4 revolutions of the cam or what?
the FSM says 1 quart of fuel for ever 60 seconds of cranking. Back in post #4, I recommend you test the flow.
 
On the small block Mopar, the fuel pump works off an eccentric lobe on the front of the camshaft. If worn, a new fuel pump won't make any difference to the fuel flow.
 
Here is what I found today. According to the information I downloaded from the internet about this engine and car, to check the coil you place the key in ignition and just turn it enough to get power to the coil and ignition. So I did that and according to the instructions i should get 12 volts to the positive side of the coil. I am getting 5.1 V DC. So I started the car and I am getting 9.2 volts from the positive side and 4.9 from the negative side which makes no sense as it has a resistor in the circuit. I also found out that the ICM is an original 5 pin ICM and probably original to the car as well. I am thinking of changing the ICM to a new recommended 4 pin one and maybe changing the coil. I am finally home so I have a few days to try to get this thing working and i really do not want to drop a chunk of money into changing out the timing chain if its not needed right now. What do you guys think. It makes mention of testing the distributor as well and checking the resistance on the coil. Thing is if I remove the coil to check it, I might as well just change it for the price of a new one and I am starting to think it is also original because it has the dodge logo on it as well as does the ICM. So what is a good replacement for the ICM along with a new coil. I can check the distributor next but these parts are easier to replace.
 
Before replacing the electronic ignition box, change the coil and see how it runs. We as a group have been finding that most of the electronic ignition control modules are made in China and don't seem to last too long. A working original might just last another 50 years!

When buying electronic parts I like to buy from companies like Mancini Racing (one of the original Direct Connection/Mopar Performance dealers) that have a solid reputation for the parts they sale.
 
Check bulkhead connections 23 and 23. Make sure their clean and a good connection. Voltage is reduced through bad connections.

Read the info at the bottom.
1774187894250.jpeg
 
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So I did that and according to the instructions i should get 12 volts to the positive side of the coil.
I don't know what instructions you have, right or wrong. The thing to understand is if you are probing with components connected. Best why to explain it is. You are reading load voltage. Best way to test is when the coil brown wire is disconnected. Then to test the blue wire disconnected from the resistor.
 
Before replacing the electronic ignition box, change the coil and see how it runs. We as a group have been finding that most of the electronic ignition control modules are made in China and don't seem to last too long. A working original might just last another 50 years!

When buying electronic parts I like to buy from companies like Mancini Racing (one of the original Direct Connection/Mopar Performance dealers) that have a solid reputation for the parts they sale.
That is my plan this morning. Clean the contact points on the ECM and change out the coil.
 
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