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Firm feel or PS T. Im wondering which one to put under my 73 Challenger.

If it is installed wrong it might hit the oil pan when turning. The tapper of the holes are up. the only dumb question is the one not ask.

20210426_163745.jpg
 
mrmopar340 said:
Yep. No questions are out of context. Information shared between us is priceless. Helps us all and builds the community.
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Thank you. I actually just bought one of those Harbor Freight digital micrometers for $20. That will be a good exercise for me. I don't have the engine in but it also looks like the idler and pitman arms are pretty much parallel.
 
A few more pics of the draglink a.k.a. centerlink orientation.
Centerlink with Offset to Rear of Oil Pan Sump.jpg


Centerlink with Offset to Rear of Oil Pan Sump 2.jpg
Centerlink with Offset to Rear of Oil Pan Sump 3.jpg
 
BillJ said:
Thank you, I think I blundered into the correct installation but I want to try my micrometer to see the taper. My alignment guy talked about the taper but I though it was just the threaded part and not the hole. What is that natural finish you put on your parts? It looks great. Thanks again.
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Cast-Iron Gray for the draglink (centerlink).
You can glass bead it and spray satin clear to protect it or spray it with Cast-Iron Gray.
 
MoparCarGuy said:
Cast-Iron Gray for the draglink (centerlink).
You can glass bead it and spray satin clear to protect it or spray it with Cast-Iron Gray.
Click to expand...

I've some experience going the clear coat route to preserve a new metal look on a rebuilt suspension, and learned a few things.

For one, unless you do a majority of the suspension parts with the same clear coat, they will patina unevenly and not look as nicely restored a few years down the road if you drive it at all. If it's a trophy shelf or museum piece, knock yourself out.

When the clear coat gets dinged by rocks and other road debris (again, if you're driving it) it causes dark spots on the surface that look kinda weird.

I've since concluded the clear coat attempt wasn't an ideal solution to keep my rebuilt suspension looking new and amazing. In other examples, where I did nothing more to the suspension parts than clean up the surface, they age and patina evenly and look nicer, longer, IMO.
 
You can always powdercoat your suspension pieces. Almost all of my suspension pieces are powdercoated in gray or satin-black. I had everything done back in 1999 by Performance Coatings in Jonesboro, GA. At that time, it was $200 total to do the entire K-frame, upper/lower control arms, strut rods, sway bars, brake spindles, brake backing plates, entire rear 8-3/4" axle housing, and all of the bolt hardware. The owner had corporate contracts to pay the bills and catered to hot rodders/car guys at ridiculously low prices. Full blasting/beading, coating, and baking at today's prices would be extremely expensive.
 
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