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Help on Canton Oil Accumulator for My 572 Hemi

EbodyPro572

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I want to purchase the Canton 3-Quart Oil Accumulator for my 73 Challenger w/572 Hemi. It's has an aluminum World Block and I'm not sure where to plumb the accumulator on the block. Front, Rear, not sure???
I want to use it as a pre-luber too and possibly use an oil cooler, remote filter, oil thermostat valve too, since i think you can purchase that stuff through Canton.
Any help and/or suggistions/opinions out there? Want to do this right!
Thanks, scott
 

ramenth

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I want to purchase the Canton 3-Quart Oil Accumulator for my 73 Challenger w/572 Hemi. It's has an aluminum World Block and I'm not sure where to plumb the accumulator on the block. Front, Rear, not sure???
I want to use it as a pre-luber too and possibly use an oil cooler, remote filter, oil thermostat valve too, since i think you can purchase that stuff through Canton.
Any help and/or suggistions/opinions out there? Want to do this right!
Thanks, scott


Not sure if I'm looking at the right one, but the Canton installation kit on Summit's website shows there being an adapter block between the engine block and the filter with two braided hoses going to the accumulator...

Like I said, not sure if I'm looking at it right. A phone call to Canton will take the guess work out of it. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

You're building one of World's aluminum engines, huh? Just out of curiousity where did you source the block and how much did it run you? Been putting the money to the side for one of my own, but having difficulty nailing down a price on 'em.
 

moper

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Canton is a great company to deal with. IMO, you don't need the oil thermostat. A street car with an oil cooler is fine. The issue will be the need for the electric valve if you want to prelube with a basically "hands free" system. I've installed them and I wire them thru a three pole switch so the driver can seal the accumulator, open it to prelube by tuning the key, or control the operation of the valve with the switch to prelube without turning the key. The plate is sandwiched behind the oil filter just like a factory block and the oil will be introduced thru the same pressure passage the pump uses.
 

EbodyPro572

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Thanks Guys!

Great info, Moper! I'm dealing with some space issues too between the lower radiator hose connection and the oil filter area so i'm adding a remote filter. I got a dual 1-1/4" cooling tube rad w/dual fans and a march serpentine system, so things are tight!
I picked up an amsoil dual-filter set up with hi-flow filter and a by-pass filter to keep oil reallly clean. Thinking I should then run the oil lines from the canton oil plate on the pump, to the cooler, to the dual filters, to the accusump, back to the oil pump??? Do I have that right?
Wish i could mount this thing in the engine compartment too. I looked at putting it up front of the radiator but too big for there. Thanks for all this help! I'll keep working at this. scott in MI.

Hey Ramenth, I sent you a PM.
scott
 
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moper

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The Accusump is not part of the circulated oil system. There's only one line to the accumulator. So you would install the Canton adaptor on the pump, then the remote filter adaptor. You may want to check with Canton to see if you will need to install check valves in the remote filter lines... I don't know if you should or not. I mounted the actual sump up in the right fender's wheel well because the car had som much already int he engine bay. It also had the March system... Read the instructions because it has to sit on a slight angle when the car is at rest on it's tires.
 

Challenger340

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Race car or Street car ?
All we ever did,
was install a seperate Ignition switch from the Starter ?

Roll the Mill until the oil pressure hit the gauge, then, Hit the ignition ?

Wingdingdingdingdingding Vroom !

Just asking, no offense intended,
Why the Accumulator ?
or the Cooler ?
Oil, should NOT get Hot on an Aluminum World Block ?
 
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Challenger340

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IMO,
Do NOT purchase the "machined" version of the World Block, Buy it, send it to your "Guy" for Machining.
Unless of course, you live in RonKonKonen N. Y. and can take it back to be FIXED.

I made that Mistake once before, got busy, figured I'd save time, MISTAKE !
Also,
make sure BOTH the NUTS, and the Main STUDS themselves, say "ARP" on them.

Somehow, (and I've spoken with Rich Gorly at World about this), ARP nuts, have been mated to "no name" brand Main Studs(which snap in half during Assembly THANK GOD), on Customer "Delivered" World HEMI Blocks.

Be Careful !
 

EbodyPro572

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It's a street motor w/10.5:1 and runs on pump gas. Tim Banning at FHO Hemis in Ontario built the motor and did all the machining. He's one great guy!
To answer the accumulator, cooler quesiton.....it's just insurance for me! Have so much in it now I figured a little more won't hurt. Maybe not necessary......but I feel better! :D scott
 

moper

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They do help if you are truly beating on it, or just really worrie about the investment. Tim's currently "the man" for Hemis and I'd trust whatever he tells you to do.
Personally, the cooler can hurt more than help. The block is a big heat soak and the oil temp needs to be kept warm. Not hot, but warm. Especially with an aluminum engine you want to make sure it is kept warm enough so the parts realtionships stay good (things like ring seal and oil clearances will change quickly with temperature).
 
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