440 oil pan clearance issues with ARP studs

[70Hardtop]

Hi, Has anyone had clearance problems fitting stock oil pans to B/RB engines using ARP main studs?

I am trying to fit a Hemi pan (bought from 440Source) to a 440 that has ARP main studs fitted. But the back of the pan (the shallow end) is hitting on the rear main studs and nuts. This is my first B/RB engine build so not sure if this is a common problem? The engine was previously running a Milodon deep pan (which fitted) but had ground clearance issue so I am swapping for a 6 Quart Hemi pan. I need to use this pan.

The rear studs and nuts are pushing the pan back 1/3" I don't want to cut the studs down (and will not be removing the studs either) but even if I did, the nuts prevent the pan being properly located at their holes in the block.

Has anyone encountered this issue before? I'm sure I wouldn't be the first

I was going to upload a picture but it isn't going to show much.

thanks

 

[rklein71]

I think I ended up using the stock bolts on the back and studs for the rest. That was many years ago though.

 

[mmissile]

Dent the pan for room, then refinish it. That, or another style/brand pan.

 

[all original]

I had the same problem, but I used a windage tray and two gaskets it just fits. I talked to the machine shop
that supplied the parts, he would have machined the top of the studs off but the windage tray worked.

 

[70Hardtop]

Thanks guys, all good responses. I emailed 440Source but got a useless and lazy answer, obviously not interested.

The stock bolts would work but it goes against my principle. This is a 500+ Hp engine and the rear main bearing takes a lot of load, being closest to the torque converter /flywheel etc. If it was a stock or mild rebuild I would probably do that though. The last two replies are what I will do. I already am running a windage tray and I think with this along with the two gaskets, it will improve the fit. And the remaining clearance I think should be solved with a pall peen hammer in those areas. I hope I don't have to repaint it, I just finished making it look beautiful!

 

[all original]

If I remember correctly, if any hammering has to be done it will be on the windage tray. If the engine is not assembled I would machine a little off the studs, I'm not a big fan of hammering to make room if possible.

 

[aussiemark]

What about if you used some ARP bolts for the rear cap and the studs for the rest? One of the reasons for studs is to save wear on the threads in the block from regular rebuilds but if you don't plan on doing this maybe stronger bolts could be the answer.

 

[70Hardtop]

What about if you used some ARP bolts for the rear cap and the studs for the rest? One of the reasons for studs is to save wear on the threads in the block from regular rebuilds but if you don't plan on doing this maybe stronger bolts could be the answer.

sorry for late reply, only just signed into the forum again today. And I don't seem to get email alerts on thread activity from this forum...Yes that is an option I considered, and I have done that on other engines. But one, I don't want to disturb the studs now, and IMO I prefer studs at this end of the crank which has the flywheel/clutch/or TC loading and it is a 500+ HP engine; two, now that I have used the windage tray and both gaskets, the pan is considerably higher ("higher", that is, with the engine upside down!) and just a very slight hammering is needed to clear the tops of the studs now. In most cases, engine builders who use main studs will also be using a deeper aftermarket pan and would not normally have this issue. But because this is a stock Hemi oilpan, it is made to only clear main bolt heads.