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More cooling for my T/A

Challenger RTA

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Mopar Car Guy covers other things to be checked. This came to mind as I was reading his post. I have seen the water pump impeller rust to nothing.also come off or loose. Check the simple things first. Stick a screw driver in the water pump. IF THE THERMOSTAT STICK OPEN.THE ENGINE WILL OVER HEAT! HAD IT HAPPEN to me. Sorry for the caps. Very important point water doesn't stay in radiator long enough to cool down.
 
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VillaTA

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Fan is definitely 7 blade. Coolant is clear and clean and is proper mix. I installed sender for water temp and ran wire. I cannot find a close hot wire for the power. Any thoughts? All of my wires are bundled up in the harness at the base of the column. I’d hate to cut into those. Are there any others that I could splice into? I installed the gauge just past the vent levers toward the passenger side. I noticed that My radio is not hooked up either. Not even a wire run near it.
Thanks in advance.
 

MoparCarGuy

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You may want to double-check that fan. The picture you posted appears to be a 5-blade fan. Below is your picture resized and lightened to see better. Hard to tell for sure from the pic but that large gap area sure looks like the 5-blade fan. That gap allow easier access to install/remove the fan bolts.
I run the 5-blade as that is what was original to my A/C car but with a viscous fan clutch versus direct drive spacer.

Also, a picture of the fuse panel accessory (ACC) blade terminal plus two other accessory feeds that may work for you.
Double-check each of these to make sure you only have power when the key is in the RUN or ACC position. The RED feed connector may be HOT all of the time from the Battery. If so, do not use it. The YELLOW feed connector should be switched HOT only with the key switch.
It is recommended that you put an inline fuse holder in the feed to the temperature gauge. It may have come with one. Check the gauge directions about fuse size.



Villa TA Fan.jpg
Dash Wiring Accessory ACC Feeds & Fuse Panel ACC.jpg
 
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VillaTA

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Another angle. Weird that the previous pic looked so much like. 5 blade
 

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MoparCarGuy

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Another angle. Weird that the previous pic looked so much like. 5 blade
Yep, you were right all along. 7-blade fan. You should really be moving a lot of air even at idle. Now we need to see that temperature!

Villa TA Fan 2.jpg
 
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DaveBob

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In my every present quest to tinker with and improve the reliability of my car, I was considering adding a new aluminum radiator. I do feel like my car seems hot. I don’t know how hot cause I haven’t installed a water temp gauge. But after 30 mins or so I get a warm firewall. And after some mild driving the other day, I could hear some pressure coming out of my rad overflow hose stub (my overflow hose is not installed currently). This motor has less than 1,000 miles on it since being rebuilt. Unfortunately, I don’t know who did the work or what components were used. I guess I just have some anxiety about doing damage.
I read about the factory shroud not fitting Champion radiators. I’m just looking for an easy upgrade. Any thoughts on brand suggestions is appreciated.
Yes, get a temp gauge. You may not have a problem. That said, there's one thing I didn't see (or just missed) in the advice - ignition advance. I had some overheating problems. But, after checking all the boxes with respect to new radiator, correct thermostat, correct fan and shroud, etc., etc., the one thing that helped the most was advancing the timing just shy of engine knock. To over-simplify why this helps, I got a more complete burn in the cylinder, producing power, and less of a burn wasted as heat. As for the optimal amount of advance, in degrees, a lot of factors affect that, so you may have ten different answers for ten different cars. For me, I wanted to reach that almost-knocking point at the same time as total mechanical advance at WOT was around 34-36 degrees. For both my Dart and Cuda, I ended up with 10 degrees initial, 35 degrees at WOT, and 50 degrees at cruise. For my Dart, with a milder 340 and lower compression, I was able to run 89 octane fuel. For the 340 in my Cuda, with a little more compression I needed 93 octane fuel. Advancing either car another degree or two would cause knock. Lastly, running a little lower concentration of Glycol helps cooling, since water is about 1.5 times better in removing the heat. But the glycol serves other purposes, such as protection from corrosion and freezing. I like to run about 40% glycol with distilled water and mix the two well, before pouring them into the radiator.
 

VillaTA

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After about a 10-15 minute drive and sitting and idling in 85 degree heat. This is as high as my temp got. Any thoughts, is this too high? Motor only has about 800 miles or so on a rebuild.
 

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Challenger RTA

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That's not bad .depends what thermostat is in it. Should not go any higher unless you are beating it. it should cool back down. There was or is a 5/8" shaft water pump For the L/A motor.Police package.I think I got mine on Amazon? www.amazon.com/Milodon-16350-Performance-Aluminum-Standard/dp/B002XKPDD4/ref=rvi_sccl_2/145-0260724-8687606?pd_rd_w=IlFY8&content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=BC6YF7JSWJJGSXKR5DCV&pd_rd_wg=WrKpT&pd_rd_r=c16d70e1-1f21-4331-b2ed-c1af3d7d8954&pd_rd_i=B002XKPDD4&psc=1
51KWMfqhIxL._AC_SX355_.jpg
 
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