motor oil

[paul1969cars]

What weight motor oil should be used in 440 and 383 engines from 1969

 

[Chryco Psycho]

It will depend on how the engine clearances were built too , climate & use but generally stock would use 10w-30 , I have always used 10w-40
Now though what is more important is the ZDDP content , you need to used SJ rated oils for flat tappet cams , newer oils do not have enough ZDDP / protection for the cam .

 

[paul1969cars]

thanks

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Agricultural oils still have the SJ rating , Joe Gibbs & Brad Penn offer good SJ oils as well

 

[moparroy]

Once my 360 is broken in, I was planning to use Castrol Edge 5W50 which I read on a Vette forum is considered a high zinc oil. I have been using it for years in my '85 2.2 Turbo (also considered flat tappet with its cam followers non roller) and it has done great no cam wear, no wear on the followers and the high lift cam I have in it has a reputation for wear.

 

[paul1969cars]

Once my 360 is broken in, I was planning to use Castrol Edge 5W50 which I read on a Vette forum is considered a high zinc oil. I have been using it for years in my '85 2.2 Turbo (also considered flat tappet with its cam followers non roller) and it has done great no cam wear, no wear on the followers and the high lift cam I have in it has a reputation for wear.

thanks

 

[Xcudame]

Valvoline ZR1 racing oil has extra zinc and phosphorous. Not recommended for vehicles with catalytic convertors. Which is the reason most motor oil made today sucks for flat tappet cammed cars. The zinc and phosphorous plugged up the catalytic convertors, but really helps cushion the flat tappet cam and lifter contact area! You can also buy additives like STP Oil Treatment which adds ZDDP to "crappy" oil.

 

[moparleo]

Factory Service Manual specs.:

 

[paul1969cars]

thanks

 

[Juan Veldez]

One thing I had seen about the zinc additives is that when mixed with detergent oils, the first thing that happens is the detergent tries to do is remove the zinc from the surfaces. Not sure if this is bogus sales pitch or not, but I'd recommend not taking chance with the break in period of a new motor. Find something like Driven Racing Oil that has a specific "break-in" oil. It's a little spendy, but so is rebuilding a motor a second time. Anyone else heard this about mixing in the zinc additives? Or is it just poor qualities of metal now used in the cams and lifters causing issues?

 

[paul1969cars]

Im going to do that