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my 74 resto project

hdwrench

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another pic

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Buckminster

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I used a US Car Tool kit on my '69 Valiant. Very heavy-gauge metal and good quality. I didn't use the shackle tubes, but it wasn't any kind of issue with the kit, I just decided on spring sliders instead.


I did this on my Challenger with what I'm guessing was far less experience in this department than you have. It's actually not that bad, just required a lot of test fits. My roof skin was from GoldenStar/CHL/you-name-it Asian, but after installation I regretted not going with AMD. There were a number of little nips and tucks required to get it to sit correctly, mostly around and in the F/R window openings.
I was told that Dr. Diff makes a good one. Unfortunately when I was in the market, they were on back order. I made my own. it wasn't really that hard. I did contract the welding of the spring perch on the rearend to someone that knows what their doing. I don't have a welder with that level of performance.
 

NoCar340

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I did contract the welding of the spring perch on the rearend to someone that knows what their doing. I don't have a welder with that level of performance.
That should only be done with the full weight of the assembled car sitting on the suspension in order to set the pinion angle. Pinion angle is very important in terms of how the car rides, launches, etc. My Valiant was assembled with the U-bolts holding the perches in place unwelded while I installed the engine, trans, etc. and awaited my driveshaft. I had to be able to move the car in the meantime. The perches got welded after the driveshaft was installed and pinion angle was measured. It was one of the last things I did under the car, if not the last.
 

hdwrench

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got back to cuda on saturday, finished all welds in trunk floor , wheel houses a, finally time to attach rear quarters and tail … gettin anxious to get the rear section done then onto floors …
 

Ronbo73

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@hdwrench The Barracuda is looking great. It looks even better when you see the whole car in one color.
I also replaced much of what you are replacing. All body panel parts were from AMD. But, on the tail finish panel you will need to pre fit your tail lights with the seal attached to the tail light before you paint the car.
I thought that the fit would be good just like the original that came out of the car but I was wrong. I installed my tail lights but they do not sit properly in the tail light holes.
Only part of the chrome trim ring sticks out like it should, some of the seal is visible and the holes are not completely round.
My car is painted and now I have to be real careful how I adjust the openings. I need to slightly roll the openings and adjust the mounting panel behind so the tail lights will sit flat in the opening. They look slightly angled in the openings. I don't have any pictures yet but will post some later today.
If you are replacing the fenders with AMD fenders check the passenger side fender antenna opening. On my AMD fender the antenna opening was not correct and needed to be modified slightly.
Look at the inside of your original fender and then look at the AMD fender. The support for the antenna clamp on my fender was not centered over the antenna hole. So the clamp was pressing against the fender itself. I had to cut the support opening out of the back side of my original fender and sandwich it between my new fender and the support. Not ideal but I could not cut or weld to the new fender because the car is painted. I didn't think to check these things prior to paint.
 

hdwrench

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@hdwrench The Barracuda is looking great. It looks even better when you see the whole car in one color.
I also replaced much of what you are replacing. All body panel parts were from AMD. But, on the tail finish panel you will need to pre fit your tail lights with the seal attached to the tail light before you paint the car.
I thought that the fit would be good just like the original that came out of the car but I was wrong. I installed my tail lights but they do not sit properly in the tail light holes.
Only part of the chrome trim ring sticks out like it should, some of the seal is visible and the holes are not completely round.
My car is painted and now I have to be real careful how I adjust the openings. I need to slightly roll the openings and adjust the mounting panel behind so the tail lights will sit flat in the opening. They look slightly angled in the openings. I don't have any pictures yet but will post some later today.
If you are replacing the fenders with AMD fenders check the passenger side fender antenna opening. On my AMD fender the antenna opening was not correct and needed to be modified slightly.
Look at the inside of your original fender and then look at the AMD fender. The support for the antenna clamp on my fender was not centered over the antenna hole. So the clamp was pressing against the fender itself. I had to cut the support opening out of the back side of my original fender and sandwich it between my new fender and the support. Not ideal but I could not cut or weld to the new fender because the car is painted. I didn't think to check these things prior to paint.
thanks for the heads up , i’ll take a close look before we go any further on the tail section….
 

Challenger RTA

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While it's open I would reinforce thees areas. Small U shape plate inside front and rear of torsion bar mount. they tend to rust out there. Make a template makes it eraser.

challenger crossmemer repair.png
 
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hdwrench

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floor pan 101 …. we’ll she will need a lil tweaking , actually a lot . we have about a 1/2” gap at the hump to firewall with the corners touching , seems to be very low at the back of the tunnel. i know the rear floor pans were on top of the front pan( stock ) but seems like it be better to be under . we’ll definitely have some head scratching goin on ….

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6B18A5CE-FCC0-432B-ADBA-19AFE183BCFE.jpeg
 

Ronbo73

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@hdwrench I had to adjust the mounts slightly by pushing on them to get them closer to the tail light openings. Also I still need to roll the outer lip slightly to make them more round and open them up just a little bit to allow the chrome tail light trim to sit inside the opening. The color is HB-1 (on the fender tag) or B-1 Blue Sky on the PPG paint chip card for 1973. The picture doesn't do the color any justice...
 

hdwrench

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@hdwrench I had to adjust the mounts slightly by pushing on them to get them closer to the tail light openings. Also I still need to roll the outer lip slightly to make them more round and open them up just a little bit to allow the chrome tail light trim to sit inside the opening. The color is HB-1 (on the fender tag) or B-1 Blue Sky on the PPG paint chip card for 1973. The picture doesn't do the color any justice...
very cool , b1 gotta be a rare color. first i’ve seen one ! my 74 was alpine white from factory w the black stripe. also has green interior which is in poor condition , so we goin w black interior and yet to finalize exterior color choice…when it’s all together, i’d love to see a pic !
 

Quiny

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I just replaced both my rear quarters on a 73, How did you weld the tail panel sides in? There is no way to get in there. I ended up using a bunch of needle nose vise grips and panel adhesive.
 

hdwrench

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I just replaced both my rear quarters on a 73, How did you weld the tail panel sides in? There is no way to get in there. I ended up using a bunch of needle nose vise grips and panel adhesive.
i have not yet welded in the tail panel . waiting on final fit till i do , which will be after door skins are replaced. i asked same question on this board and other members said they got it done but was difficult. some others suggested panel adhesive.
 

hdwrench

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I just replaced both my rear quarters on a 73, How did you weld the tail panel sides in? There is no way to get in there. I ended up using a bunch of needle nose vise grips and panel adhesive.
do a search tail panel weld and my post will come up …
 
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