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No electric (think bulkhead) and no ignition 1970 cuda

Joe Kuhns

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Have a 1970 Cuda 340 that has a good battery but NO electric and also NO ignition. Turn key NOTHING. Did replace and test fusible link which wasnt/isn’t problem. But did notice when I jiggled the wiring clusters going to bulkhead, one of those clusters of wires (like 8 wires) going to bulkhead, the lights, horn etc would come on and off. And try start car when had electric but nothing from ignition. DEAD. So I am sure I have either wiring or bulkhead connector issue causing the electric problem and will remove and check it out. But NOT sure if what effects that has with dead ignition????? But seemed to lost/have problems with both (no) electric and (dead) ignition at same time. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Tks Joe
 

challenger6pak

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Unclip the wiring harness at the bulkhead and check the thick red wire in this picture.
BJHDhxp.jpg
 

Chryco Psycho

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Clean the terminals & use di-electric grease to prevent corrosion in the bulkhead & plugs
 

moparleo

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Electrical connections, especially grounds have always been a problem on older cars especially our Mopars. All connections, grounds from front to rear bumper should be cleaned and greased with Dielectric grease. The purpose for the grease is to seal the connection from moisture and air(oxygen) to prevent future corrosion ( oxidation). Good time to replace all of the light bulbs as you will have them out to clean the sockets and you will know that they are all new and good. Stay away from low cost import bulbs though. U.S./Canada/German made bulbs prefered. The Germans use nice Nickel plated bulb bases that resist corrosion.
In the long run a new harness is the best (but expensive) solution.The old harness wiring gets hard, brittle after 50 years.
 

V02Barracuda

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Yeah and take it from me, if you're gonna buy a new wire harness, go through Year One. Trust me.
 

fasjac

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Doesn’t Yearone give FEBO members 30% discount? I thought I read that a while back.
 

Joe Kuhns

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Electrical connections, especially grounds have always been a problem on older cars especially our Mopars. All connections, grounds from front to rear bumper should be cleaned and greased with Dielectric grease. The purpose for the grease is to seal the connection from moisture and air(oxygen) to prevent future corrosion ( oxidation). Good time to replace all of the light bulbs as you will have them out to clean the sockets and you will know that they are all new and good. Stay away from low cost import bulbs though. U.S./Canada/German made bulbs prefered. The Germans use nice Nickel plated bulb bases that resist corrosion.
In the long run a new harness is the best (but expensive) solution.The old harness wiring gets hard, brittle after 50 years.
Thanks for all the helpful advise. Car has been totally restored before I brought it bout 10 years ago. But isn’t driven much. I plan on checking wiring and harnesses and bulkhead and clean/grease what I check. Again thanks. Apprec it.
 

Joe Kuhns

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Unclip the wiring harness at the bulkhead and check the thick red wire in this picture. View attachment 74310
Checked the harness and bulkhead which looked fine. Most times when I would reconnected harness with thick red wire, I would get power (lights, horns etc) but when i attempt try to start vehicle, I would immediately lose all that electric power again. And if I jiggled that harness (with thick red wire) the power would come on and off. If seemed like especially most times when I touched/push on that harness I would get power and as soon as left go lose power.
 

volunteer

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In most situations, it is the larger (12 gauge?) red wire that is suspect. The connection is of the bladed type so there can most often be a loose contact. Also, double check the two wires (red and black) that connect to the ammeter. Most of the current supplied to the gauges and switches passes from red to black - and on to ignition switch. Very little is 'shunted' thru the gauge itself.
 

Chryco Psycho

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sounds like the connectors are loose , may have to remove them & squeeze them tighter
 

Joe Kuhns

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Checked the harness and bulkhead which looked fine. Most times when I would reconnected harness with thick red wire, I would get power (lights, horns etc) but when i attempt try to start vehicle, I would immediately lose all that electric power again. And if I jiggled that harness (with thick red wire) the power would come on and off. If seemed like especially most times when I touched/push on that harness I would get power and as soon as left go lose power.
 

Joe Kuhns

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Fooled with and tested thick red wire going from fusible link to harness bulkhead. And have juice. When jiggle that wiring harness I get electric like lights, horn, etc. But when go to turn ignition switch to start position, (I hear a click) and lose power (lights, horn, etc). Then when turn ignition switch to off position, that electric power comes back on. But noticed a smell (electric) and noticed the fusible link n thick red wire going to bulkhead was very hot. Any ideas????
 

340challconvert

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Simple thought; have you checked the continuity of the red wire (possible break or interruption within the wire itself? Heat is created from resistance.
 
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