No Spark and Distributor Pickup

[rdstudio]

Hello

I got 1970 Cuda AAR with 340. Car was running great for few years. After winter time I wanted to start a car, but no luck.
Cranking but no spark.

Checked all things also coil, ignition box, all good. When grounding coil pickup it make spark.

So next step was to check distributor pickup. I made ohm measures - have strange values like 10 ohm (should be 250-500), also check if when cranking will it produce some AC V (like 0.2-0.3v) but no.
Air gap is a little bit tight - but it will not touch reluctor.

So what should be my next step? To replace pickup? Should I also buy reluctor? I have read that it should be part LX-102 and LX-104.

Photos :

 

[Challenger RTA]

Nothing has really changed ecept corrosion. Cap,rotor and reloctor, check it.

Just to be sure check the following.
When the key held in the start position (START) you should have battery voltage at the Brown wire at the coil. If not it is the wiring, bulkhead connector or at the molex connector. Turn the ign sw on check the BROWN wires on one sides. of the Molex connector. If you don't power the on both side no need to go any further. Back to the ing sw. If it's on one side it's the Molex.

Here again with the ing sw on.
If you have power at the molex move onto the engine compartment connector 22 Brown. If you don't have it there it's in between there and the molex.

If you have power in the engine compartment connector 22 and not at the coil brown wire. It's the connector or the wire to the coil, If there is power at he brown wire at he coil. It might be the coil. Disconnect the The brown wire from the coil to be sure about the coil.

The bulkhead connectors are known to be a problem.

 

[rdstudio]

Coil is OK I have voltage there. Also made pickup from coil grounded and it is arcing.

Ohm reading at Distributor Pickup Coil has almost open circuit so I guess that is the problem.

 

[72 340 4spd AC]

Same thing happens to my 72 340 'cuda, no spark after sitting a few months.
If I take another distributor, plug it into the car harness and spin the shaft by hand once or twice it'll spark.
Car will start right up and restart fine for weeks.
No clue as to why.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Same thing happens to my 72 340 'cuda, no sparkA wqke after sitting a few months.
If I take another distributor, plug it into the car harness and spin the shaft by hand once or twice it'll spark.
Car will start right up and restart fine for weeks.
No clue as to why.

A siginal wake up call.

 

[Challenger RTA]

When the key is in the on position (RUN) you should have battery voltage at the blue resistor wire. If not it is the wiring, bulkhead connector or at the molex connector. Turn the ign sw on check the DARK BLUE White trace wires on one sides. If you don't power the on both side of the molex connector, no need to go any further. Back to the ing sw. If it's on one side it's the Molex.

Here again with the ing sw on.
If you have power at the molex move onto the engine compartment connector 23 DBL white tracer. If you don't have it there it's in between there and the molex.

If you have power in the engine compartment connector 23 and not at the resistor connection. It's the connector or the wire.

If you have power at the feed or the resistor and not on the other side ( load side) it's the resistor.

There will be reduced voltage on the other side of the resistor (Load Side), that's what it dose.
The test light might not show it has power because it's lower power and completing the circuit. You might see a very dim light. Unplug the load side of the resistor wire is the best way.

If there is reduced power (9v all depend on the the battery state of charge) to the coil, It might be the coil.

The bulkhead connectors are known to be a problem.

 

[Challenger RTA]

If you have power there it doesnt mean you will get spark for ign. The distrubator triggers the coil. Meaning it turns the coil off, then the feild collapes and then you get spark. In short the distibator is the switch for the ground.