Rear end clunking on turns

[Cudakiller70]

3:23 gear, 742 case, Rebuilt, clutch type sure grip
I’ve added more friction modifiers, done figure 8’s but noise isn’t going away. Can turn pinion and axle flange by hand easily, It’s smooth and no noise. BUT CANNOT turn one wheel while holding the other. Pulled third member see nothing obvious only a couple of heat marks. Not sure what they mean. See photo. This third member sat for about 3-4 years after installation. Haven’t done this before, but I’ll try an take it apart and reassemble. Something is too tight?

 

[704406]

If you take it apart, an old time trick I used to use was soaking the clutch plates in a pan, in a mixture of gear oil and friction modifier before assembling the clutches it the case. It's critical that the beveled clutch plates and the steel spacers are installed the correct way as well. A service manual would come in handy.
With a sure grip you likely can't turn one wheel while holding the other by hand.
The sure grip case half bolts are LEFT hand thread, I believe, don't break them.
How was the axle end play when you took it apart?

 

[Cudakiller70]

Thanks for the rebuild info that helps.
And the left hand bolts, no doubt I would have broken them!
No axle play using green bearings.

 

[704406]

I'm mistaken about the case half bolts being left hand, it's the ring gear bolts that are left hand thread.
Sorry, my memory isn't what it once was.

 

[Cudakiller70]

Ok got it ! Thanks

 

[john-9]

case half bolts on an original CHRYSLER POWER LOCK (clutch type)like the one shown in the picture are --- LEFT hand thread same as the ring gear bolts --- aftermarket power locks are right hand thread.

 

[Cudakiller70]

Thanks for the info, disassembly today.

case half bolts on an original CHRYSLER POWER LOCK (clutch type)like the one shown in the picture are --- LEFT hand thread same as the ring gear bolts --- aftermarket power locks are right hand thread.

 

[moparleo]

The heat marks are just showing areas that were induction hardened after machining to strengthen that area.
Did you do the rebuild and set-up yourself or was it done for you.
True, "Green Bearings" have no end play, also not really designed for side loading like the original taper/roller bearing set-up. Tapered bearing still used on all trucks and HD applications because of their strength. Did you do a disc conversion that required "Green Bearings" or did yours come that way used ?
Moparts on the Web - Main Index

 

[Cudakiller70]

The heat marks are just showing areas that were induction hardened after machining to strengthen that area.
Did you do the rebuild and set-up yourself or was it done for you.
True, "Green Bearings" have no end play, also not really designed for side loading like the original taper/roller bearing set-up. Tapered bearing still used on all trucks and HD applications because of their strength. Did you do a disc conversion that required "Green Bearings" or did yours come that way used ?
Moparts on the Web - Main Index

Good to know on the heat marks.
Rebuild was done by others, it’s been awhile since I bought it maybe as long as 5 years. IIRC it was supposed to of been rebuilt.
Good video on the sure grip. Thank you
Just took it apart clutch discs don’t look good.

 

[moparleo]

Did you also click on the Moparts on the Web link right above the video ? Gives more good info.

 

[oldkimmer]

That doesn’t look to have been rebuilt. But it needs new clutches now. How many miles did u drive it? Kim

 

[Cudakiller70]

Installed new clutch discs, clunking is gone.
But, I bought the clutch kit from mancini and the kit only had dished plates, no dished discs, they came flat. I called Mancini, they called the manufacturer and apparently that’s how they’ve been making them for years.
I checked gear mesh before taking it apart, it was off. Pinion had a .10 thick shim, I ended up with .086 this is a 742 case. Ran it about 30 miles. So far, so good no whining.
Also broke a carrier bolt stud. The service manual I have says 45 ft lbs. seems just a tad high. Some of them sure seemed like they were stripping out just before it torqued up.
Bearings looked good.

 

[oldkimmer]

Glad u got it fixed. .014 is a lot of shim to remove. We’re they whining b4? Kim

 

[Cudakiller70]

Glad u got it fixed. .014 is a lot of shim to remove. We’re they whining b4? Kim

No whining surprisingly.
Pattern was way off. I struggled with getting pinion right. After putting it together 3-4 times, finally felt right and everything fell into place.

 

[Cudakiller70]

Somehow one of the splines

on one side moved, couldn’t get the axle in so luckily I saved a set of old axles and made a couple of T handled and was able to line them up. The last thing I wanted to do was take it apart again.

 

[oldkimmer]

Glad u got it fixed. Kim