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rear height

maxb

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Hi there----Just got the car. I'm trying to get the rear sorted out as to the correct height. I have 255/60/15's for tires. the previous owner added 2! extra leaf springs 20 years ago AND had the leafs re-arced. the rear height was way too high. I have removed 2 leafs from each side and now looking at lowering it further to the correct height. right now I have 28" from the ground to the wheel lip going up at the centre of the wheel with the car on the ground. Can a couple of you measure and let me know your heights? thanx much..... pict 71.jpg
 
Howdy Here is a quick way to lower your rear, just flip your front leaf spring perches, it tucks the leaf springs higher up. It will take some filing as the holes have different spacing. This will lower your rear 1.5-2 inches. Once I learned this trick I do it on most of my rides as I like B and E bodies a little lower in the rear, A bodies I like higher ride height.
 
New tires >$600 or more, just for back
Lowering blocks $60
Front hangers with additional hole for height adjustment, $200?
 
My blue car is 25" and my red car is 27-1/2" at the top of the rear wheel well lip opening.

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The most important thing regarding ride height is that at rest on level ground, the leaf springs are just about perfectly flat on top. Anything other than that will compromise handling to some extent.
And 28" that you have now is probably about the upper limit one would want to see on an E-Body. The lowering front hanger is great for lowering the car further assuming you leaf springs are flat!
 
thanks, and Man, that is one incredible looking car (RT/SE)
what tire size are you using?
Thanks. Which car?
The blue R/T car has 315/60/15 drag radials on 12" wheels.
The red R/T S.E. car has 295/50/15 tires on 8" wheels.
 
What's the difference between R/T coupe and R/T 2 door hardtop?
That's a question that you should have not ask.
I will answer in short from what I know. Then duck.
No B pillar or frame on an E body 1/4 windows . Never had one.
The E body line. Hardtop rear 1/4 windows roll down. Coupe rear 1/4 windows fixed.
As far as ride height. Different weight and ride height set up different. That's what it looks like.
Coupe and Hardtop
It means a number if different things. Depending on era, manufacture, car line, make, model.
 
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Keep in mind that when changing the front spring perch height that you are also changing the pinion angle.

Chrysler spent a lot of time and research on their rear springs. More than their competitors. And had many leaf combinations to compliment different requirements and therefore had rear suspensions that worked really well. Especially in performance applications. Removing leafs to achieve a cosmetic purpose is the tail wagging the dog in my humble opinion. Removing leafs also has a big impact on body roll. Something many felt the stock leafs had too much of to begin with and added rear sway bars to counter.

I guess my point is that there are other rather important factors to consider when doing this sort of thing. Not to say it shouldn't be done. Not saying that at all because we all have certainly done it. Just to say that there are prudent approaches and less prudent approaches.

As to reference sources, it is always interesting to watch early 70s movies with traffic sequences. When you watch the E bodies in them you notice that the rear is level or low. The Challengers seem especially prone to having their tails kinda dragging. Now, whether they had rear seat passengers, or were weak already, or came new that way, I can't tell you. But if you watch those original everyday cars in their everyday clothes, you will see that quite often the rear was lower in relation to the front than we ever see on our restored cars. Pull up some original pics of the Vanishing Point Challenger and you'll see what I mean. And that car had some the heaviest spring packs.
 
Keep in mind that when changing the front spring perch height that you are also changing the pinion angle.

Chrysler spent a lot of time and research on their rear springs. More than their competitors. And had many leaf combinations to compliment different requirements and therefore had rear suspensions that worked really well. Especially in performance applications. Removing leafs to achieve a cosmetic purpose is the tail wagging the dog in my humble opinion. Removing leafs also has a big impact on body roll. Something many felt the stock leafs had too much of to begin with and added rear sway bars to counter.

I guess my point is that there are other rather important factors to consider when doing this sort of thing. Not to say it shouldn't be done. Not saying that at all because we all have certainly done it. Just to say that there are prudent approaches and less prudent approaches.

As to reference sources, it is always interesting to watch early 70s movies with traffic sequences. When you watch the E bodies in them you notice that the rear is level or low. The Challengers seem especially prone to having their tails kinda dragging. Now, whether they had rear seat passengers, or were weak already, or came new that way, I can't tell you. But if you watch those original everyday cars in their everyday clothes, you will see that quite often the rear was lower in relation to the front than we ever see on our restored cars. Pull up some original pics of the Vanishing Point Challenger and you'll see what I mean. And that car had some the heaviest spring packs.
Thanks......Is replacing the stock rear shackles with after market rear shackles an option? I have a set of 'adjustable' shackles (3 holes to choose your height) I could put the rear of the leaf 'up' 3/4" into the middle hole of the shackle therefore lowering the body a little.
 
I don't know, never tried it. Nor have I seen leafs removed to lower a car. I can tell you that using shackles to lift the rear was always a bad idea.

Let us know how all this works out the way you are going about it.

.
 
As to reference sources, it is always interesting to watch early 70s movies with traffic sequences. When you watch the E bodies in them you notice that the rear is level or low. The Challengers seem especially prone to having their tails kinda dragging. Now, whether they had rear seat passengers, or were weak already, or came new that way, I can't tell you. But if you watch those original everyday cars in their everyday clothes, you will see that quite often the rear was lower in relation to the front than we ever see on our restored cars. Pull up some original pics of the Vanishing Point Challenger and you'll see what I mean. And that car had some the heaviest spring packs.

Yep, from the factory, with equal size tires all around, the only E bodies that sat taller in the back were the AAR/TA twins. Everything else sat with the rocker panel level to the ground, which tends to make the body line on the trunk slope down and make it look like the rear is lower than our collective memory recalls. I suspect that is because so many tires were replaced right away with something wider and taller that created the rake that was so common in our minds.

A common practice to raise ride height with leaves is to add a stiffer, over-arced spring to put more camber into the spring pack. Additional leaves also increase the spring rate. I suspect this combo is what the OPs previous owner did to both lift the rear and prevent it from bottoming on dips or with passengers.

Replacing the stock shackle with the three hole aftermarket shackle won't work with E bodies because of the rear valance. The longer shackles will not fit under the panel without cutting it for clearance. It also isn't the most stable method of lifting the body height as the extra length can get side loaded more easily and distort bushings or even bend. Will it happen as soon as you pull out of the driveway, no, and probably not with a lot of easy miles on it either, but they will slowly distort the bushings and with the splayed mounting of an E body, slowly push them outwards at an odd angle.
 
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Yep, from the factory, with equal size tires all around, the only E bodies that sat taller in the back were the AAR/TA twins. Everything else sat with the rocker panel level to the ground, which tends to make the body line on the trunk slope down and make it look like the rear is lower than our collective memory recalls. I suspect that is because so many tires were replaced right away with something wider and taller that created the rake that was so common in our minds.

A common practice to raise ride height with leaves is to add a stiffer, over-arced spring to put more camber into the spring pack. Additional leaves also increase the spring rate. I suspect this combo is what the OPs previous owner did to both lift the rear and prevent it from bottoming on dips or with passengers.

Replacing the stock shackle with the three hole aftermarket shackle won't work with E bodies because of the rear valance. The longer shackles will not fit under the panel without cutting it for clearance. It also isn't the most stable method of lifting the body height as the extra length can get side loaded more easily and distort bushings or even bend. Will it happen as soon as you pull out of the driveway, no, and probably not with a lot of easy miles on it either, but they will slowly distort the bushings and with the splayed mounting of an E body, slowly push them outwards at an odd angle.
" The longer shackles will not fit under the panel without cutting it for clearance. It also isn't the most stable method of lifting the body height as the extra length can get side loaded more easily and distort bushings"

The shackles I want to install at the rear are the same size in height as OE. The leaf would move up the shackle 3/4" into different holes, therefore lowering the car height? I agree, the shackles may not be as secure/firm as
OE though.

It might be easier to use the front spring hanger and move the leaf up?
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