Rebuild kits for Brake Master Cylinder

[michigan2023]

K-H Proportioning valve is also cleaned up and ready for reassembly.There was not as much debri inside as I expected…
M/C bore is probably in need of the stainless steel sleeve but I’m going to reassemble and see if it leaks.

 

[michigan2023]

Does anyone have any opinions on painting the outside surface? I read a few articles about using Hi-Temp engine paint with etching it first.
Or should it just be left as bare metal?

K-H Proportioning valve is also cleaned up and ready for reassembly.There was not as much debri inside as I expected…
M/C bore is probably in need of the stainless steel sleeve but I’m going to reassemble and see if it leaks.

View attachment 154921

View attachment 154922

 

[MOPARMITCH]

Does anyone have any opinions on painting the outside surface? I read a few articles about using Hi-Temp engine paint with etching it first.
Or should it just be left as bare metal?

I used Cast Blast Paint on mine. Looks like Cast Iron....

 

[pschlosser]

As a general rule, brake fluid reacts with most paints, particularly rattle-can type paint. And I've seen M/C painted that look great, until it is driven, gets hot a few times, and brake fluid seeps a tiny bit, causing the paint to bubble and flake off.

If you can keep it free of brake fluid, you may be in good shape painting it. Paint it if you want, but I don't think it lasts. Some may treat the outside with some acid to make it look better, but bare metal is the way to go, for some.

The lid, at least on the 1970-style manual drum pictured in post #23, is typically zinc-coated cadmium/chromate yellow.

 

[Katfish]

RPM, ECS makes it

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[MOPARMITCH]

As a general rule, brake fluid reacts with most paints, particularly rattle-can type paint. And I've seen M/C painted that look great, until it is driven, gets hot a few times, and brake fluid seeps a tiny bit, causing the paint to bubble and flake off.

If you can keep it free of brake fluid, you may be in good shape painting it. Paint it if you want, but I don't think it lasts. Some may treat the outside with some acid to make it look better, but bare metal is the way to go, for some.

The lid, at least on the 1970-style manual drum pictured in post #23, is typically zinc-coated cadmium/chromate yellow.

Yes, but the use of DOT 5 negates the paint loss issue. My Cuda is a long way from finished, but the master cyl is ready. I'm gonna wait until I'm closer to have it cad plated...