• Welcome to For E Bodies Only !

    We are a community of Plymouth Cuda and Dodge Challenger owners. Join now! Its Free!

Roof Rail Trim & Weatherstrip

Fishgutz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2017
Messages
157
Reaction score
246
Location
Northern California
Anyone have any instructions, tips, hints, photos, or videos on the installation of roof rail trim and weatherstrip? We’re making a little progress on the 70 Cuda and this one of our next steps. Many thanks in advance for your help.
 
there are 2 parts , the drip rail is screwed on first with a low profile screws , then a foam strip is added between & the molding holding the window seal is screwed on & the rubber seal
 
Kinda what I remember and some online photos I’ve been looking at. Any clean closeup photos will be a huge help. Thanks.
 
Anyone have any instructions, tips, hints, photos, or videos on the installation of roof rail trim and weatherstrip? We’re making a little progress on the 70 Cuda and this one of our next steps. Many thanks in advance for your help.
Yeah, been trying to find out some info on this for quite some time, but no luck. I'm doing the same thing on a 70 Challenger. Some pictures or videos would help. Bought the factory service manual, way too vague.
 
Don't forget to use the soft sealant strips (aka dum-dum) between the body and the drip rail.
Comes black or gray

20260813_140027.jpg
 
Last edited:
I got my soft sealant strips from Detroit Muscle Technolgies and they worked well - but be careful, it is easy to tear them.

After my 1973 car came back mostly restored, I installed the stainless trim around the driver and passenger side windows myself. The trim was in good shape and came from a 72 I owned earlier and used for parts. I had a new vinyl top put on, and that obscured the screw holes for the trim. I used the holes in the trim as the guide to find the screw holes, and opened them up with an awl. More than a little tedious, as it turned out.

After I opened up the screw holes, I fitted the drip rail trim up first, using the somewhat larger, flat headed cross tip pattern screws - I still had some from the previous car and I got more at a Mopar car show. DMT also has them. You have to jiggle the two-piece drip rail trim a bit to get it to match the screw holes. It really wasn't quite perfect, which makes me wonder if there was some variation between years on the screw hole pattern, or even between cars coming down the line.

I put the new sealant strips on the top of the long weather strip channels, replacing the old material, then screwed the channels in place. The screw holes in the channels should match remaining holes in the window opening, not previously used to hold up the drip rail trim.

It may not be a perfect match, if the trim came from another car.

I included photos - as you can see, I ran into a couple of significant issues.

First, the very tail end of the drip rail trim where it comes down to the quarter panel at the corner of the rear window, was too long. It hit the top of the panel. I think this is because the body shop replaced the quarters and somehow the new ones are up a tad compared to the old one. I had to carefully file down the stainless steel trim edge a bit so it would fit. Not ideal, and I have to touch up the paint at the corners, but is good enough.

Second, for reasons I do not yet understand, the long trim piece that defines the back edge of the vinyl roof does not come around and meet the drip rail edge like it is supposed to. This car has a new deck filler panel, and it is unclear if it ever had a vinyl roof originally. My restorer had to carefully fit the trim piece and drill holes - possibly something is out of line, even though it looks right and matches the vinyl top. We could not telescope it out more without separating the two halves of the trim piece. The result is a half inch gap between the roof rail trim and the vinyl top trim, as you can see in photo 153452. I would welcome opinions here. Possibly someday I can correct this.

Also, if you are doing the back window trim, mine went onto the clips we installed without difficulty until we got to the right rear lower coner (153513). It sticks up a bit and I haven't sorted that out yet. It may be a slightly misplaced or misaligned clip. Not sure.

Anyway I hope this helps.

20260813_153527 (1).jpg


20260813_153452 (1).jpg


20260813_153513 (1).jpg


20260813_153504.jpg


20260813_153443 (1).jpg
 
I got my soft sealant strips from Detroit Muscle Technolgies and they worked well - but be careful, it is easy to tear them.

After my 1973 car came back mostly restored, I installed the stainless trim around the driver and passenger side windows myself. The trim was in good shape and came from a 72 I owned earlier and used for parts. I had a new vinyl top put on, and that obscured the screw holes for the trim. I used the holes in the trim as the guide to find the screw holes, and opened them up with an awl. More than a little tedious, as it turned out.

After I opened up the screw holes, I fitted the drip rail trim up first, using the somewhat larger, flat headed cross tip pattern screws - I still had some from the previous car and I got more at a Mopar car show. DMT also has them. You have to jiggle the two-piece drip rail trim a bit to get it to match the screw holes. It really wasn't quite perfect, which makes me wonder if there was some variation between years on the screw hole pattern, or even between cars coming down the line.

I put the new sealant strips on the top of the long weather strip channels, replacing the old material, then screwed the channels in place. The screw holes in the channels should match remaining holes in the window opening, not previously used to hold up the drip rail trim.

It may not be a perfect match, if the trim came from another car.

I included photos - as you can see, I ran into a couple of significant issues.

First, the very tail end of the drip rail trim where it comes down to the quarter panel at the corner of the rear window, was too long. It hit the top of the panel. I think this is because the body shop replaced the quarters and somehow the new ones are up a tad compared to the old one. I had to carefully file down the stainless steel trim edge a bit so it would fit. Not ideal, and I have to touch up the paint at the corners, but is good enough.

Second, for reasons I do not yet understand, the long trim piece that defines the back edge of the vinyl roof does not come around and meet the drip rail edge like it is supposed to. This car has a new deck filler panel, and it is unclear if it ever had a vinyl roof originally. My restorer had to carefully fit the trim piece and drill holes - possibly something is out of line, even though it looks right and matches the vinyl top. We could not telescope it out more without separating the two halves of the trim piece. The result is a half inch gap between the roof rail trim and the vinyl top trim, as you can see in photo 153452. I would welcome opinions here. Possibly someday I can correct this.

Also, if you are doing the back window trim, mine went onto the clips we installed without difficulty until we got to the right rear lower coner (153513). It sticks up a bit and I haven't sorted that out yet. It may be a slightly misplaced or misaligned clip. Not sure.

Anyway I hope this helps.

View attachment 158209

View attachment 158210

View attachment 158211

View attachment 158214

View attachment 158215
 
Thanks! Since I didn't originally take it apart, having trouble piecing back together, but at least I still have most of what came off this car. I'll check out your supplier, Thanks again!
 
Ok, I went on DMT's website, found the drip rail to roof sealing strip rolls, it shows a picture of the assembly but since there are 2 types of sealing strips, which 1 goes where?
 
My gut guess would be, the adhesive seal attaches to the roof side & the other foam seal goes on roof/pillar retainer?
 
Are these links helpful?



Also attached are some excerpts from factory drawings that might be helpful.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
I bought just two rolls, the ones with the adhesive backing. They replaced the rotted foam that ran along the top of weatherstrip track. That track screws up under the drip rail molding, which in turn attaches directly to the roof. My 1972 car had a vinyl roof and there was no foam between the vinyl, which wrapped around the edge of the roof, and the drip rail molding. I just duplicated what the 72 had on the 73 I have now.

Possibly the foam without adhesive backing goes between the roofline and the drip rail molding on a car without a vinyl top. I am not sure.

I will look at the video and pdf that Larry4406 provided as I am also curious.

DMT's statement next to the product that because of questions, just put the new foam where the old foam was is not helpful! I have called them before and they were very helpful so you may want to ask them what goes where direct.
 
I bought just two rolls, the ones with the adhesive backing. They replaced the rotted foam that ran along the top of weatherstrip track. That track screws up under the drip rail molding, which in turn attaches directly to the roof. My 1972 car had a vinyl roof and there was no foam between the vinyl, which wrapped around the edge of the roof, and the drip rail molding. I just duplicated what the 72 had on the 73 I have now.

Possibly the foam without adhesive backing goes between the roofline and the drip rail molding on a car without a vinyl top. I am not sure.

I will look at the video and pdf that Larry4406 provided as I am also curious.

DMT's statement next to the product that because of questions, just put the new foam where the old foam was is not helpful! I have called them before and they were very helpful so you may want to ask them what goes where direct.
Ok, thanks. Another member here mentioned dum-dum? Where would that go? I don't have a convertible. It's a T/A.
 
I have not heard that term, except maybe in application to myself given the mistakes I have made restoring my car over the years...

Meanwhile congrats on owning E-body royalty.
 
Back
Top