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roof skin replacement question?

hdwrench

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i am replacing my roof skin which will attach to the new full quarters. is the anything between the skin and the roof supports ? tape , glue , something else or does it install dry ?

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chally71e

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I've never replaced one, but if I did I would use 3m or SEM NVH foam between the braces and skin at least the middle one. It helps to support the roof skin and prevent a rattling noise.
 

hdwrench

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I've never replaced one, but if I did I would use 3m or SEM NVH foam between the braces and skin at least the middle one. It helps to support the roof skin and prevent a rattling noise.
i was wondering about panel adhesive? but i’m not at all familiar with doin one ….i could see where a foam tape would work well also …
 

chally71e

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i was wondering about panel adhesive? but i’m not at all familiar with doin one ….i could see where a foam tape would work well also …
I would not recommend panel adhesive. Although I have seen it used in videos on this subject. To me it seems like it would grip too tight, which could create ghost lines in the roof.

This is more flexible and is used on things like hoods/doors for brace to skin connections.

Amazon product ASIN B005IU2IPM
 

Adam

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I don’t remember anything being between the roof skin and braces on mine, but if you look closely at the top of the braces when the skin is off you may see if there was anything up there, or not. I agree with the foam tape idea.

Btw, I used panel adhesive along the sides with the rain gutters, etc. It worked very well. I still welded the rest.

And don’t lose the little wire hooks in the back for the rear headliner bow.
 

cuda joe

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where it gets welded you can use panel adhesive only if you spot weld it ... if mig welding it is a big no. as for the ribs that don;t get welded a flexible sealant that does;nt shrink is good for sound deadening.. sealant that shrinks will suck down the roof and looks like dents foam tape will push up on the roof and make high spots.. weld through primer is good for bare metal that you don;t see after roof is installed looks like you are doing a great job keep us posted
 

cuda joe

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forgot to mention dry fit the glass before welding..it;s easy to push down on the roof in the front and the back and then the glass won;t fit. clamp it good before welding screws will work in the glass channel to keep proper fit avoid downward pressure
 

hdwrench

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forgot to mention dry fit the glass before welding..it;s easy to push down on the roof in the front and the back and then the glass won;t fit. clamp it good before welding screws will work in the glass channel to keep proper fit avoid downward pressure
this product has been recommended… looks like a reasonable product ! wonder how much i’d need ?

B6ADBC37-A5A8-420B-83E3-D0EBFA401DBE.png
 

chally71e

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That unfortunately I cannot give you. I've likely have 3-4 on hand just so I didn't have to worry about running out. Amazon is easy for returns.

200 ml=12.20 cubic inches.

30 inches by .5inches by .25 inches is 5.56 cubic inches. So a guy could measure the flange width/fill gap and length and get close.
 

Challenger RTA

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3M Fast 'N Firm Seam Sealer, 08505, Fast Setting, Paintable In 45 Minutes, 1/10 gal/10 fl oz Cartridge​

Apply in spots in roof and frame gaps after roof is installed.
1704583784563.jpeg

There shouldn't be any large gaps. But if there it this will keep it from moving. It's pretty much the same product used on the hood skin and frame.
1704584610874.jpeg
 
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chally71e

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I saw this video the other day. He talked about gluing the roof and why. That being said I wiould still stick with the NVH instead of a glue to accomplish the same thing.

Starts at 5 min in video.
 
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