Struggling with my Thermoquad

[challenger6pak]

71 carb has O-rings. They are black and hard to see. If they are not there, your car will run so rich that black smoke will come out of it. Run it too long and you will wash the rings.

 

[fasjac]

I will inspect it. Thank you.

I have two TQ cores should you discover you need the main body. Both were fine when retired long ago.

 

[340SHAKER]

I reset the floats, they were very close. I'll be damned if I can find any o-rings. Would anyone have a picture of the '71 o-ring locations? Or can you see them in my pictures? It does smoke black and makes my eyes water. I really want to get this thing on the road man. I've been working on it for 12 years and I'm soo close. What's a good replacement carb or should I install fuel injection? If fuel injection what system would you recommend? I've always been a TQ fan, never had problems with them until now. I'm over it, I need to get this thing on the road!

 

[fasjac]

What's the number on the base of the TQ?

 

[340SHAKER]

Looks like 4972.

 

[fasjac]

Looks like 4972.

Carter Thermo-Quad Service Manual
Man this is a link I found that may help. I've never been in one and thought about rebuilding the oldest one I have. I've seen some youtube stuff that could be helpful a while back. See if you can copy/click on the link and down load different pages. Good luck with it.
If the body is cracked or warped, it's going to be an ongoing problem from what I have read.

 

[340SHAKER]

Fasjac, Thank you very much. If I can't get her to go soon, I'm thinking about putting the TQ in a box and trying a Street Demon carb.

 

[fasjac]

I like that option better! Good carb. I really like the TQ's from the old days but, so many really good options available now. I get it if an original 71 340 and trying to stay original. Let us know how you do.

 

[340SHAKER]

Will do. I promised the wife we would drive it this summer and I'm running out of both time and patience! Thank you for your help.

 

[fasjac]

Will do. I promised the wife we would drive it this summer and I'm running out of both time and patience! Thank you for your help.

Anytime

 

[challenger6pak]

@340SHAKER . I sent a PM

 

[Daniel Jones]

Steve Stills in Edmond Oklahoma has rebuilt 4 TQ’s for me in a weeks time. And all run excellent. He sells and rebuilds on eBay. If you look under thermoquad you won’t miss him. His rebuild service is $165 I believe

 

[340SHAKER]

Daniel, thank you for the lead. I talked to the person that rebuilt this TQ for me last night. He gave me some advice on what to look for. I'm gonna give it one more shot before I throw in the towel.

 

[Daniel Jones]

Well if you want to swap a good one for yours I have two that work well. A 9037 and a 4322 I believe that have just been rebuilt. I run them on my 71 Cuda and my 72 Duster. Both 340 motors

 

[340SHAKER]

I'll keep that in mind. Thank you.

 

[volunteer]

The earliest T.Q.'s (No.4972/4973) were different enough inside that made them the most difficult to 'tune' and therefore not suggested for ultimate performance mods. Brass floats were more dependable than the Nitrophyl (black) versions. Some of us have experienced saturated nitrophyl floats as that is one of two main reasons for a 'rich' or flooded engine. Other reason is loose or damaged needle-valve (inlet). To test your floats (other than by weighing them) is to set them upright - side by side on level surface. Push down on metal end (pivot) and a normal float will remain tilted. A saturated float will fall back down onto surface. A brass float can also fail but any fuel inside will be felt when shaking affected part.

 

[340SHAKER]

Ah, good information. I will try that. Thank you for sharing.

 

[oldkimmer]

In 1971 the TQs were solid fuel. They changed for 72 up. Kim

 

[340SHAKER]

OK, I'm not sure what "solid fuel" means but, I did install a new carb kit and reset the floats last Friday and it is running much better. I can now let it idle without any fuel dribbling out of the primaries. It will now stall out when I turn the idle mixture screws in so I think I got it. One seat had a different seal on it and the base gasket was different from the one that was in it to the one in the kit. The gasket in the new kit has two extra holes by the seats. I took it on a short drive and it runs much better. I managed to do a pretty wicked burn out which made my day! I'm gonna tweak it a bit more and drive it! Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[oldkimmer]

U can probably google solid fuel Or look up earlier TQs. Kim