Katfish
Well-Known Member
Impressive, you're really doing some amazing work!
Sublime Lime 70 Challenger R/T SE
- Thread starter Dodgey
- Start date
Dodgey
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I have a problem knowing when to stop, I'm somewhat of a perfectionist and keep looking at things and not being totally happy with them ...
The colour it was repainted in, is not "exactly" Sublime lime. When I was originally just touching various interior parts - engine bay, interior etc I was just going to match the re-paint rather than use the correct factory sublime lime. Now that I've got this far, the only pieces that still have the re-paint on are the doors and bonnett (hood). So once again, the perfectionist in me is saying, may as well go factory colour ...
Dodgey
Well-Known Member
Continued on with "dry assembling" the panels this weekend. So glad I did before I welded any of the rear together. While I thought I had the passenger side rear door jamb in the correct spot, turns out I didn't. So i'll have to back up a few spot welds and adjust the postion. Right after I welded that section in place, I've got into the cleco's. If only I had a fraction earlier ...
Anyway, you live and learn. Nothing has been welded on at present - all rear panels and roof are just clamped in position, while I try and get everything lined up. I had a bit of a panic with the passneger side door - I've got a massive gap between door and sill, but when I went back and measured against the original sill on the drivers side, it's the same sill height, so it's just a door, fender and hood adjustment to close that gap.
Still got a bit of work to do to get everything lined up at this stage, make sure all the lines are good then I can start welding the inner bits in place. I think I'm going to have to make a few mods to some of the braces, the trunk drop sides and the wheel tubs to close some gaps to keep the alignment of the panels where they should be.
When I stop to think about how much the unibody had sagged, I'm not surprised I've got to make some mods. None of this would have been apparent if it was still in the rotisserie. It would have gone back together and I never would have been able to get the gaps anywhere near close.
Without all the body filler, the front fender's look pretty rough. When I put the hood on, the paint on it is starting to show a lot of spotting, so I'm resigning myself to having to strip it, the doors and trunk lid as well. So much for the "pretty" paint job ...
The photo doesn't show it really well, but the lines on the drivers side aren't too bad. I haven't spent anytime trying to get them properly aligned at this stage, they are really just bolted on but the line flows from the fender, through the door to the rear quarter fairly well so I was pretty happy with that.
Rear end is almost good. Trunk measures up pretty well width wise - same width front and back of trunk. Because of the passenger door jamb being out, there's about a 1/4 inch short on that side. I need to put the SE plug in before I get too carried away to double check the rear window opening as well.
Passenger side needs a bit of work. As mentioned above, I need to move the door jamb back about a 1/4 inch and close the gap to the sill with the door. Door is easy, thats just hinge bolts then following through with lowering fender and hood. The door jamb is a little trickier, that's "unpicking" the spot welds again then moving the door jamb back. This time with the door in place. I swear I did that last time, but not sure what I did wrong.
Anyway, you live and learn. Nothing has been welded on at present - all rear panels and roof are just clamped in position, while I try and get everything lined up. I had a bit of a panic with the passneger side door - I've got a massive gap between door and sill, but when I went back and measured against the original sill on the drivers side, it's the same sill height, so it's just a door, fender and hood adjustment to close that gap.
Still got a bit of work to do to get everything lined up at this stage, make sure all the lines are good then I can start welding the inner bits in place. I think I'm going to have to make a few mods to some of the braces, the trunk drop sides and the wheel tubs to close some gaps to keep the alignment of the panels where they should be.
When I stop to think about how much the unibody had sagged, I'm not surprised I've got to make some mods. None of this would have been apparent if it was still in the rotisserie. It would have gone back together and I never would have been able to get the gaps anywhere near close.
Without all the body filler, the front fender's look pretty rough. When I put the hood on, the paint on it is starting to show a lot of spotting, so I'm resigning myself to having to strip it, the doors and trunk lid as well. So much for the "pretty" paint job ...
The photo doesn't show it really well, but the lines on the drivers side aren't too bad. I haven't spent anytime trying to get them properly aligned at this stage, they are really just bolted on but the line flows from the fender, through the door to the rear quarter fairly well so I was pretty happy with that.
Rear end is almost good. Trunk measures up pretty well width wise - same width front and back of trunk. Because of the passenger door jamb being out, there's about a 1/4 inch short on that side. I need to put the SE plug in before I get too carried away to double check the rear window opening as well.
Passenger side needs a bit of work. As mentioned above, I need to move the door jamb back about a 1/4 inch and close the gap to the sill with the door. Door is easy, thats just hinge bolts then following through with lowering fender and hood. The door jamb is a little trickier, that's "unpicking" the spot welds again then moving the door jamb back. This time with the door in place. I swear I did that last time, but not sure what I did wrong.
Katfish
Well-Known Member
Nice!
So what's starting point for alignment with so much apart?
So what's starting point for alignment with so much apart?
moparlee
Well-Known Member
Nice progress! Patience and skill are on your side.
Dodgey
Well-Known Member
Right or wrong, I’m going front to back. Hood and fenders roughly aligned, then doors then moving backwards.
The drivers door is a good reference point as both the front and rear door frame/jambs are still original. So it’s a case of aligning back to that door, across the front and down the passenger side as I dial it in.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The in general to do what you are doing. If the platform is set and your you not changing it. It would be to set the 1/4 then build to the front. Doors then fenders.
In you case Your doing the smart thing. Building to the existing. The platform is set. The rockers being one of the most important, 0 body line. The doors bottoms needs to line up! The laterals, floor, trunk pans, A pilers, cowl are set. Set the 1/4s to the door roof, dutchman and tail panel. It's usually set the doors to the 1/4s. You kind of have to do both. I know you know that from what you are doing. Just like flying a plane. File a flight plan so you can see ahead where your going. Plans change.
As it's been found out by a number of us. The assembly process is a bit sloppy. I believe the is a 1/4" tolerance in the building of the platform. An 1/8" here and an 1/8" there and then elsewhere before you know it it's an 1". As long as it fits with in the parameters. Just My 2¢ Keep us posted on your excellent work!
All of it! It's like reversing an explosion.
Note: There are members here with a keen eye. Someone might catch something. It amazes me! Keep us posted.
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Dodgey
Well-Known Member
Hoping someone out there can help me with a measurement?
Now that I've re-built the rear brace structures, I need to set the right offset for the top Quarter panel brace (not sure what its actually called). Can someone tell me what the distance from the inner flange to the outer side of the brace is? Shown in the picture by the red arrow.
Now that I've re-built the rear brace structures, I need to set the right offset for the top Quarter panel brace (not sure what its actually called). Can someone tell me what the distance from the inner flange to the outer side of the brace is? Shown in the picture by the red arrow.
Dodgey
Well-Known Member
After a bit of jiggery pokery, I've got the passenger side door jamb sorted. Not surprisingly, the rest of the panels more or less slot into place now. You Can't quite see in the pic, but the lines from the quarter panel run stiraight into the line on the door now. Still needs a little fine tuning, but that will happen once everything is welded in place. Also added the rear window plug just to make sure the gaps on that are all ok - which thankfully they are. Almost like it was made to fit! 
All panels are just clamped in place at present. Still a long way to go, but now I will be fitting the panels, aligning everything then cleco'ing in place the piece that I'm going to weld, then blowing the panels apart, then welding the piece in place. It will be slow progress, but I shouldn't have to back track so much.
In case you're wondering, the jack and timber props are just putting the smallest amount of upward pressure so that I could align the inner quarter panels - I had to blow them apart due to moving the door jamb. The props enabled me to get the right alignment without a second person - and yes, just seeing how out of alignment the prop and jack are ...
For those wondering, the AMD panels fit pretty well. I'm going to have to fine tune certain places - deck filler/trunk gutter channel etc. Nothing major, but certainly not a case of just drop in place and weld.
Feeling pretty happy that I can see panel lines lining up and it looks like a '70 Challenger. Almost ...
Something else I've discovered in the re-assembly process, is my drivers side bonnet/hood hinge has a lot of play in it. When close it, you have to push down on the hinge corner to get it to sit down in place. At a later date I'll have to investigate whether it's plausible to recondition the original hinge or just by a replacement ...
All panels are just clamped in place at present. Still a long way to go, but now I will be fitting the panels, aligning everything then cleco'ing in place the piece that I'm going to weld, then blowing the panels apart, then welding the piece in place. It will be slow progress, but I shouldn't have to back track so much.
In case you're wondering, the jack and timber props are just putting the smallest amount of upward pressure so that I could align the inner quarter panels - I had to blow them apart due to moving the door jamb. The props enabled me to get the right alignment without a second person - and yes, just seeing how out of alignment the prop and jack are ...
For those wondering, the AMD panels fit pretty well. I'm going to have to fine tune certain places - deck filler/trunk gutter channel etc. Nothing major, but certainly not a case of just drop in place and weld.
Feeling pretty happy that I can see panel lines lining up and it looks like a '70 Challenger. Almost ...
Something else I've discovered in the re-assembly process, is my drivers side bonnet/hood hinge has a lot of play in it. When close it, you have to push down on the hinge corner to get it to sit down in place. At a later date I'll have to investigate whether it's plausible to recondition the original hinge or just by a replacement ...
larry4406
Well-Known Member
The hood not sitting down in the corner is a result of improper adjustment of the hood so I have read.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
F8RT
Active Member
Hey mate , have you still got your car.
Dodgey
Well-Known Member
Yes mate, still have it. Still beavering away on repairs just haven’t stopped to post for a while.
F8RT
Active Member
I have a 70 RTSE also down here in Albury , just got it in to epoxy primer and i am finishing the body work. Top Banana colour and 4 speed 383.
Have you ever been down to Chryslers On The Murray.
Dodgey
Well-Known Member
Not yet, but it’s on the plan once I get her back on the road. I’d like to say next year, but that’s a bit ambitious at this stage.
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