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Voltage Regulator on Points vs Electronic Conversion

money pit

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On another post I asked about issues I had with over charging after I converted to electronic conversion. I tried all the suggestions, without solving the problem. I replace the voltage regulator, grounded directly to the battery, no difference. I Googled the problem and found a couple of sites that said the voltage regulator on points distributors is different than electronic ignition regulators. The sites said you have to convert to a regulator for a 2 field system (which I already have). The charging system is charging at 15 volts. Does the system just require more voltage? The one thing I did find, the blue wire to the regulator and the wire to blue wire on the ballast resistor go to the same terminal on the bulk head. Could that be the problem? Should I try an adjustable voltage regulator? Thanks.
 

70chall440

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Its been many moons since I messed with points in any of my cars so I cannot really answer that, however I would back up some and think this through. Think of this situation like a computer, you need to go back to the last time everything worked if that is possible. In other words, did everything work correctly before you did any modifications?
 

Challenger RTA

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As 70chall440 implies. Reboot.The question that needs to be answered first is. Do you know it was working correctly before you did any thing?
 

money pit

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Its been many moons since I messed with points in any of my cars so I cannot really answer that, however I would back up some and think this through. Think of this situation like a computer, you need to go back to the last time everything worked if that is possible. In other words, did everything work correctly before you did any modifications?
Before I converted to the electronic ignition, the voltage was a little less than 14 volts while driving.
 

money pit

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As 70chall440 implies. Reboot.The question that needs to be answered first is. Do you know it was working correctly before you did any thing?
I just watched this YouTube video on trouble shooting. Yes, everything was normal before I converted to the electronic ignition. Thanks.
 

Challenger RTA

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I myself have to conclude.if you followed the videos instruction and achieved the test results as needed. It would be a wiring issue. I would check the field wires for continuity.also move wires around while checking. I would think the voltage regulator regulator is not seeing the voltage it needs to operate. If good.Follow through with checking the routing of the charging circuit. Battery post and terminal need to shine.fuse able link feel swollen?starter relay connections clean.bulkhead RED connector clean and not burnt. Steering column connectors clean and tight. RED and Black wire are the heavy load. Black wire at bulkhead connector going to alt. (GROUND )Check ground on radiator support and motor.Alternator and voltage regulator ground. DID you check the Hi Low beam switch plug? I have seen them melted more then once!
 
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70chall440

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There are several possibilities here;

1. During the installation of the electronic ignition you did something incorrect to cause this issue. If you followed the instructions, this should not be the case.
2. During the installation of EI you disturbed something causing this issue. This is definitely possible.
3. The addition of the EI has nothing to do with this problem. I am leaning more towards this but not being there its hard to say.

If it were me, I would dig out the instructions and go through them very carefully to ensure that everything is connected correctly. I would also review all of the charging system wiring paying attention to how everything is wired and all of the connections.

Whatever this is, it is something simple, you just have to find it.
 

moparleo

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Absolutely, Rule number one on diagnostics is to never assume something is good, even if it is new or that it is installed properly.
Always verify the part and always start from the beginning. 90+% of the time it will be something simple.
 

70chall440

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We all have been where you are (probably many times) and it is daunting and frustrating not being able to figure it out immediately, but there is hope. These are not complicated machines but they can be confusing until you learn and understand them. Too many people just want to throw parts at a problem without ever really understanding what is happening, what the problem is (or isn't) or what parts are doing what.

I admit that I was one of those people especially in my youth, however over time I learned to diagnose problems by essentially using "cause and effect" criteria; meaning things are supposed to function in a specific way, if they aren't then why is that.

I learned how to test pretty much everything. I bought equipment that allows me to determine good from bad and all this now allows me to determine without guessing if something is doing what it is supposed to do. I have to admit that Amazon has been fantastic in that I have been able to buy equipment that in my youth was unobtainable and via Amazon and perhaps eBay at a very reasonable price.

You can test a VR with a variable power supply, local shops can test the alternator, so with those 2 resources you are set. If the VR and Alt test good then its a wiring issue plain and simple.
 

money pit

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There are several possibilities here;

1. During the installation of the electronic ignition you did something incorrect to cause this issue. If you followed the instructions, this should not be the case.
2. During the installation of EI you disturbed something causing this issue. This is definitely possible.
3. The addition of the EI has nothing to do with this problem. I am leaning more towards this but not being there its hard to say.

If it were me, I would dig out the instructions and go through them very carefully to ensure that everything is connected correctly. I would also review all of the charging system wiring paying attention to how everything is wired and all of the connections.

Whatever this is, it is something simple, you just have to find it.
The kit was from Mancini Racing. There were 2 wires to connect. One to the coil, the other went to the ballast resistor wire that is getting voltage with the key on. This wire (blue) that gets its power from the bulk head connection. This bulk head connection also goes to the voltage regulator. All my grounds for the ignition and the regulator go directly to the battery.
 

money pit

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I myself have to conclude.if you followed the videos instruction and achieved the test results as needed. It would be a wiring issue. I would check the field wires for continuity.also move wires around while checking. I would think the voltage regulator regulator is not seeing the voltage it needs to operate. If good.Follow through with checking the routing of the charging circuit. Battery post and termanel need to shine.fuse able link feel swollen?starter relay connections clean.bulkhead RED connector clean and not burnt. Steering column connectors clean and tight. RED and Black wire are the heavy load. Black wire at bulkhead connector going to alt. (GROUND )Check ground on radiator support and motor.Alternator an voltage regulator ground. DID you check the Hi Low beam switch plug? I have seen them melted more then once!
I cleaned the battery posts, the body of the regulator and ignition units are grounded directly to the battery. I noticed that I see under 12 volts at the regulator and the ignition. The ignition, according to the instructions, should have 12.5 Volts. I'm going to try to clean the connection at the bulk head. Thanks.
 

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What side of the coil? You probably didn't do that.just making a point. I think I made a simple mistake once or twice! what about a picture.
 
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Challenger RTA

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You can see a few tenths or more of a voltage drop, depending what's on.clean things up any how,won't hurt.
 
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70chall440

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If the EI is connected correctly then it has nothing to do with the charging issue IMO. I know this issue developed at the same time but an electronic ignition conversion should have no effect on charging or what the alternator does.
 
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