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voltage to instrument panel lights?

rogue

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I'm assuming this is the result of a 50 year old dimmer... seems the most voltage i can get to the instrument panel bulbs is 9v... a fully functional dimmer switch should provide up to the full 12v right?
 

tonysrt

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Dimmer switches on the Ebodies are garbage. I have one with broken metal tabs on it. There is a guy on here that rebuilds them, I can't remember who but if you search it may come up. The one in my car shorts out so out of 3 I have 1 good one. Of course they weren't made to last 50 years.
 

73-Cudah2

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I just bypassed mine to get by until I fix it or get another one so I have dash lights!
 

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rogue

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thanks all... i'll probably just bypass it for now (good suggestion)... it's definitely not the supply voltage.
 

tonysrt

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The dimmer switches in E bodies are pretty generic, not specific to the E bodies. They were used all across the Mopar line.
What other dimmer can we use if they're generic?
 

heminut

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its not generic, e body only
Uh, NO it's not E body only! Posting missinformation like this doesn't benefit anybody.

AMC as well as Chrysler used the switch all across model lines from 1960 up to at least 1980! Don't believe me? Go to the link below and click on 'Check the fit'. There well over 20 pages of vehicle listings that switch fits.

 

themechanic

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Uh, NO it's not E body only! Posting missinformation like this doesn't benefit anybody.

AMC as well as Chrysler used the switch all across model lines from 1960 up to at least 1980! Don't believe me? Go to the link below and click on 'Check the fit'. There well over 20 pages of vehicle listings that switch fits.

The OP is talking instrument lights. There's a dimmer for them, too.
 

ted s

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he isnt asking about the high beam switch
 

tonysrt

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The bottom line is the E body instrument panel dimmer switch is E body only.
 

Chryco Psycho

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JS Restorations rebuilds [or used to] E body dimmers switches , jumping the switch is an option , using LED bulbs is also an option but may be too bright requiring a dimmer or added resistance of some sort if the LED will even dim at all .
 

70chall440

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I have resurrected a couple of them, if you take them apart you will see that there is a contact that slides over a ring of wrapped wire (ie rheostat) and typically those wires get tarnished as does the contact. You can clean them in a variety of ways but I use a solution of white vinegar and salt (soak it) and then rinse it in clean water.
 

Ele115

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Do what's posted directly above, or even use a copper scouring pad from the grocery store. Avoid LED's. Chances are half of them will die out in a week and you'll have to go back in there and start all over again. Keep the Chicoms out of your dash, you'll be a lot happier. Also, you don't really need 600,000 CP dash lights anyway
 

Ele115

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I can't remember when's the last time I've seen a Frisbee. Probably about the last time my vote counted
 

tonysrt

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The only good thing about Ebody instrument panel lights is the removal light bar to replace bulbs. The A body lights are almost impossible to change unless you're 10 years old to fit up there.
 

heminut

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The only good thing about Ebody instrument panel lights is the removal light bar to replace bulbs. The A body lights are almost impossible to change unless you're 10 years old to fit up there.
Yup! I had a 64 Chevelle that was like the A bodies, but back then I was only 18 and a lot more flexible. I would hate to have to deal with that now!
 
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