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Car on stands or on the floor for trunk install?

340challconvert

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Need an opinion:
Ready to screw down the trunk panel for spot welding
I had the car on 4 jack stands on the frame on all four corners. Everything fit well with the car in this position.
I lowered the car to the floor to finish installation of the torsion bars so the car was mobile again.
Question; is it ok to screw in the trunk floor on leveled jack stands on the frame or install the trunk while the car is on the floor. Easier to work on it on the stands.
Opinions welcome
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rklein71

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Any support structure underneath or just stands on the floor and shim it level somehow? Did you do the rear frame rails too or just the trunk floor and the rest?
Looks like you have about as much space as I do. I feel better now.

Other than jack stands, I had no support structure underneath. My frame rails and rockers were rock solid. Honestly, I threw a level on the floor and it was level. I did take measurements prior to disassembly including the height from the floor to the rear crossmember just to verify it went back together the same as it came apart. I also took measurements of the trunk opening and the distance from the roof to the tail panel. Here is a picture of my redneck rotisserie. Rod

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340challconvert

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I am lucky in the respect that the body structure of my A66 vert is relatively intact.
The only sections that I have cut out so far is the full trunk and only one trunk extension. I kept the other extension in as a reference point and maintain some integrity in the area. (it is in decent shape, I may not replace it) Also cut the smaller bottom areas of the quarters for patches.
I had the car on stands and level and the trunk (2 piece) floor fit well and flush against the back frame rails and cross member in the back. Dropped the car in the front to finish the torsion bar install.
I will raise the car back up on stands on the frame, and level the car for installation.
I appreciate everyone's thoughts on this.
Thanks to all!
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340challconvert

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Here is a pic of the first trial fit of the trunk floor when it was still up on stands, showing the fit against the frame rail and a 2nd pic where the new floor matched up against the wheel well;
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gzig5

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Other than jack stands, I had no support structure underneath. My frame rails and rockers were rock solid. Honestly, I threw a level on the floor and it was level. I did take measurements prior to disassembly including the height from the floor to the rear crossmember just to verify it went back together the same as it came apart. I also took measurements of the trunk opening and the distance from the roof to the tail panel. Here is a picture of my redneck rotisserie. Rod

Thanks. Think I might need to do a bit of reinforcing. My rear frame rails are thin and were gone under the sway bar mounts. I patched them but I plan on pushing this thing well above 120mph on road courses and the thin frame rails don't give me a warm and fuzzy. I think I'm going to do the Dynacorn one piece for the trunk, frame, and seat pan. It needs the pan and the rest won't hurt. That's going to be a big hole so I think I'm going to have to box it first and maybe build a sub-frame underneath. I think the trunk, hood and passenger door are the only sheet metal I won't be replacing on this poor thing. Rotisserie may be in the future once I get it stiff enough. I'm not afraid to go redneck.
 
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