Console Fit Problem

[michiganhotrod1]

Hi all;
I replaced the pitted shifter bezel in my 70 Challenger this weekend, and noticed the console itself has a outward bow in the shifter area. Not clear in the photos, but I can see the tunnel and the wire for the shifter lamp through the gap.
Is this normal? If not, is there any fix other than replacing the console?
Thanks for any help.
Mark

 

[ItsJustMe]

That’s not a bow. It looks cracked or me.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

You could epoxy a small diameter steel rod under it to support it & epoxy it from below

 

[scar426]

mine has the same bow in the same approximate location, but no crack.

 

[Bret Schneider]

Not sure about the 70 Challenger but the later ones have a notched area in the console the bezel fits into.
That first picture you posted might be showing that at the top of the picture.
It looks to me like the bezel is forward of the recess it should slip into.

 

[ScotiaCuda]

Hi all;
I replaced the pitted shifter bezel in my 70 Challenger this weekend, and noticed the console itself has a outward bow in the shifter area. Not clear in the photos, but I can see the tunnel and the wire for the shifter lamp through the gap.
Is this normal? If not, is there any fix other than replacing the console?
Thanks for any help.
Mark

View attachment 144772

Hi, mine is similarly bowed. And I’ve often noted the same on E-bodies at car shows. I think it simply reflects warpage from chronic sun/heat exposure, plus lack of a fastener in that region of the assembly. My gap/bow was improved by repairing some broken or weak points on the inside of the assembly so that the screws held properly, but I like Chryco’s suggestion of a steel rod as a definitive fix. I’ll do that next time I need to take mine out.
Regards, Jack
P.S. Similar warpage problem with my lid. (Talking convertible here, so even greater sun exposure.) Took it apart and improved the alignment via gentle application of a heat gun, plus shifting the hinge slightly, but still was unable to totally fix it. It is what it is…

 

[Ronbo73]

My center console had a slight bow there also. I removed the console and then used a heat gun to make the plastic pliable and pushed back into position. No more bow.

I agree with ItsJustMe that you have what looks like a crack, so you need to fix two things there. JB weld makes a really good plastic 2 part epoxy and it comes in black. That stuff worked great on my lower dash bezel.

 

[topbanana73]

mine has the same bow in the same approximate location, but no crack.

Same here, maybe from prior owner trying to access the bulb by bowing it in lieu of taking off top plates. I’m having the same issue, shifter lamp not working. Thanks

 

[Xcudame]

We forget these cars were designed to last like 7 to 10 years maximum! After 50+ years, the plastic interior parts expand and contract with day and night temperature changes. I think it's a testament to Chrysler Engineers how long these cars have lasted!!
By the way, my 70 Challenger has a slight bulge too. But surprisingly not cracks!

 

[topbanana73]

Yea a bulging short piece of plastic is the least of my worries lol, from a handy but not a mechanic guy. Thanks to this forum and you tube!

 

[topbanana73]

---

Correction “from a handy guy”

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Most consoles have the bulge problem and often crack in this weak area. I converted my auto console to a manual console and, at the same time, repaired the cracked plastic with a Plastic Welder Kit and JB Weld Plastic Bonder from Amazon. Worked very well using the "squiggly" metal reinforcement but may not be as strong as a steel rod epoxied to the bottom. A combination of these methods may be needed depending on your console's crack.
Last two photos show the top-side results.