FOR SALE A true factory-reference, investment-grade 1970 Plymouth Barracuda – numbers-matching, California survivor
- Thread starter RonnieT
- Start date
RonnieT
Active Member
I was able to get good pics of the Block Casting Date, which reads 10*22*69. That date corresponds correctly with the Manufacture Date of 12-1969 (Door Tag), as well as the Sales Date of 12-30-1969 (Sales Invoice). I've read that VIN stamp on 318 Barracuda block pad was inconsistent and often not present. I located Block VIN Pad (upper rhs near head) but it does not appear to be stamped.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
The engine VIN pad is on the passenger side, right above the oil pan rail and near the drain plug. If it's still up on the lift, you can find it easily. The one under the front of the drivers side head is just engine plant info, etc.
moparleo
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I hope you didn't pay too much for the "survivor"
The more I look at your pictures, the more I can see that a non Mopar person has tried to "detail" the car.
Non -Mopar or wrong year parts.
Best to have someone knowledgeable on E-body cars do a proper inspection of this car so an accurately described sales add can be made.
And you will need many, many more pictures of the car. Like the inside of the trunk, close up pictures of the engine compartment,underneath the front end suspension etc...
A Mopar person knows what areas to focus on. But in my opinion after owning/ restoring many 1970 Barracuda/Cuda's since the 70's and also many different year Dodge Challengers, NOS and replacement parts for over 40 years. The inconsistencies are blatant.
This is not a reference car by any stretch. Not desire able in the current realm of Mopar collectable E-body cars.
White one of the least ordered colors . Low production numbers of an option a lot of times is because it was not popular.
During this period of time it was the "High Impact Colors " That were the rage. Citron/Top Banana Yellow, Hemi Orange,Tor Red, Plum Crazy/Purple, Metallic Blue, Fluorescent Green, Pink. These are what people still shop for. Look at how many white cars are on the road. So many they are invisible.
These guys are actually being very discreet with their observations.
Survivor and other adjectives do mean something.
1970 Plymouth Data Book Barracuda
The more I look at your pictures, the more I can see that a non Mopar person has tried to "detail" the car.
Non -Mopar or wrong year parts.
Best to have someone knowledgeable on E-body cars do a proper inspection of this car so an accurately described sales add can be made.
And you will need many, many more pictures of the car. Like the inside of the trunk, close up pictures of the engine compartment,underneath the front end suspension etc...
A Mopar person knows what areas to focus on. But in my opinion after owning/ restoring many 1970 Barracuda/Cuda's since the 70's and also many different year Dodge Challengers, NOS and replacement parts for over 40 years. The inconsistencies are blatant.
This is not a reference car by any stretch. Not desire able in the current realm of Mopar collectable E-body cars.
White one of the least ordered colors . Low production numbers of an option a lot of times is because it was not popular.
During this period of time it was the "High Impact Colors " That were the rage. Citron/Top Banana Yellow, Hemi Orange,Tor Red, Plum Crazy/Purple, Metallic Blue, Fluorescent Green, Pink. These are what people still shop for. Look at how many white cars are on the road. So many they are invisible.
These guys are actually being very discreet with their observations.
Survivor and other adjectives do mean something.
1970 Plymouth Data Book Barracuda
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F8RT
Active Member
My 70 RTSE is a Cal car 383 engine and has turned down rear exhaust pipes.
DetMatt1
Well-Known Member
Don’t get me wrong, I love them all but but after 50+ years of looking at these cars with the high impact colors I think I’d love to own a white over tan cream puff of a Barracuda just like this one minus the 440 callouts.
Adam
Well-Known Member
FYI, if you want to install a factory looking exhaust, the original mufflers were canisters and located b/t the rear axle and the rear valance WITH a bolt on heat shield on the bottom of the trunk floor. The correct exhaust tips attach directly to the muffler output. Fortunately this stuff is all reproduced.
Very nice car with several things that need to be corrected. Not 100% survivor by no means. The first thing I would do with it is swap to a 440 to match hockey stick stripes and add the correct exhaust tips.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
A nice modified $40,000 318/904 Barracuda, maybe. All depends on what the buyer is willing to pay the the owner/saler is willing to let it go for. Definitely not a survivor. Everyone else has covered things well here. Those exhaust tips just suck!
RonnieT
Active Member
Thanks moparleo and everyone else for all the helpful feedback. Thx JD for all the help and I'll look again for that Engine Block VIN stamp - I was looking on the correct side of the block, but up too high (where head meets block / behind water pump housing). I do have a ton of pics guys - just didn't post them here. Since moparleo asked about trunk and suspension, I'm sharing some of those below. The trunk is clean - someone noted earlier that the Jack Instructions sticker was a cheap aftermarket, which I did not know. The trunk includes the Full Size Spare (which I understand to be standard for the Barracuda (not the W34 Spacesaver Option). It also has all a mat (in good condition) and the Jack equipment - please let me know if anything is missing.
Also posting pics of the front suspension - views from both front and back angles. The rotors have not been cleaned up but could certainly use it. The front disc brakes have the feel of recently updated pads - grab quick and solid. I've not had the front wheels off to inspect the pads but that's probably a pic set I should add to my collection.
Finally, I'm providing pics of the Rear Differential. I looked for codes or stamps but not finding any so I assume it's the original and aligns to the Broadcast Sheet.
Here are the Trunk Pics...
Deathproofcuda
Well-Known Member
So @RonnieT how do you fit in with this car? Assuming you are not the current owner, as you don't seem like someone that has owned an E-Body for the last 22 years. You just marketing this thing for someone else?
moparleo
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Definitely the base suspension, driveline too many things that should be done to count.
I would recommend that you:
#1 Have it properly inspected by an E-body expert, owner.
#2 Have the car properly detailed.
Shows poorly in the engine compartment and underneath from front to rear. The important place to show is under the trunk mat. These cars commonly have serious rust in this area
Many little things. I like that someone used the frame tow hooks to attach the rear tail pipes to.
But if you want to get top dollar, the car has to look like it.
Spend some money on the details.
Like selling top quality leather shoes, fix the scuffs and polish them before you try to sell them.
Do a little real research. Never rely on AI.
What is the definition of artificial ? Not genuine or real.
That is AI , not really intelligent.
You don't want to look uninformed, or better yet, Take it to a classic car seller and they will detail and market it.
Pay your commision and let them deal with the details
I would recommend that you:
#1 Have it properly inspected by an E-body expert, owner.
#2 Have the car properly detailed.
Shows poorly in the engine compartment and underneath from front to rear. The important place to show is under the trunk mat. These cars commonly have serious rust in this area
Many little things. I like that someone used the frame tow hooks to attach the rear tail pipes to.
But if you want to get top dollar, the car has to look like it.
Spend some money on the details.
Like selling top quality leather shoes, fix the scuffs and polish them before you try to sell them.
Do a little real research. Never rely on AI.
What is the definition of artificial ? Not genuine or real.
That is AI , not really intelligent.
You don't want to look uninformed, or better yet, Take it to a classic car seller and they will detail and market it.
Pay your commision and let them deal with the details
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autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
Incorrect for 70-71 E-bodies. 383-4, 340-4, 440-4 had tips in CA. As do 340-6 AAR and T/A.
440-6 and Hemi 1970 and 1971 E-bodies sold new in California have N97 noise reduction package along with N95. N97 includes turn downs.
But doesn’t apply to this 318 2bbl car as they all came with single turn down exhaust. Not optional with dual exhaust or tips in 70-71.
