Thermoquad rebuild help

[Cuda360]

I got the car back from the resto shop last weekend and it now runs very well. They rebuilt the TQ (Bottom of bowl was warped) and replaced the spark plugs.
The compression test turned out really good also
.
@ transman, I will take more pictures of the corrected setup this evening (If I can remember) and post them here.

 

[transman]

Many thanks for your trouble of posting the pictures I require.
I had an ex-customer of mine give me a 9100s Monday, I had hoped that it would cure the problem of the choke linkage set up. It's helped a bit, but things still not right, so photos of your OEM 74 Carb would be very much appreciated.

transman

 

[Cuda360]

Here are some pictures...Sorry it took so long.

 

[moparleo]

I am glad that it finally runs good for you. I noticed that it still has the springs hooked up incorrectly and still has too many springs. The bracket that the return spring attaches to is missing. Please look at the factory diagram I showed you on the second page of this thread. There only needs to be 2 springs total. Have you tried to locate the proper springs?
Go to Mancini's website . They have all the proper brackets, linkages, and proper springs to make you setup correct again.

 

[beepahh]

are you usingg a carb spacer because the butterflys hit?

 

[burdar]

The green spring you had on the kickdown linkage was the right one. All it does is holds the linkage against the throttle lever.

I don't know how the return springs attached on the 4-barrels, but my 2-barrel attaches where you had it originally. On the bottom of that small triangular piece.

EDIT: This picture is of a 4-speed but you can see where the spring is attached. That's where it is on my 2-barrel.

http://image.moparmusclemagazine.co...7_02_z+1974_plymouth_barracuda+carburetor.jpg

 

[Cuda360]

are you using a carb spacer because the butterflys hit?

Spacer? That is the base that came with the rebuild kit. There was one on when I bought the car so I figured it was just a thick gasket.

The green spring you had on the kickdown linkage was the right one. All it does is holds the linkage against the throttle lever.

I don't know how the return springs attached on the 4-barrels, but my 2-barrel attaches where you had it originally. On the bottom of that small triangular piece.

EDIT: This picture is of a 4-speed but you can see where the spring is attached. That's where it is on my 2-barrel.

http://image.moparmusclemagazine.com...carburetor.jpg

There are just too many setups, how do I know which one is right?

 

[Cuda360]

Update: Although the car runs much better, it still has trouble starting after sitting for a few days. A co-worker mentioned that he had the same issue in the 70's. It turned out that the gas in the bowl slowly leaked down into the manifold eventually ending up in the oil pan. He discovered this when he changed his oil and there was a layer of gas in his drain pan.

Has anyone heard of this?

I'm due for an oil change anyway so I will check to see if this is happening here.

 

[burdar]

The thick base gasket is correct.

Thermoquads are known for warped bodies. I hope that was checked during the rebuild. Most likely though, it's todays fuel. It is designed for use with fuel injection. It evaporates faster. I've been reading a lot of this lately. Cars will start ok if they sit for less than a week. Any more then that, it takes a lot of cranking to start.

 

[moparleo]

That is possible if the fuel bowl is cracked. Let the car sit a few days and pull the dipstick and smell for fuel. If it does leak fuel you DON"T want to start it at all.
You can not only wipe out the bearrings, but also have an explosion if your car backfires when trying to start..

 

[Cuda360]

That is possible if the fuel bowl is cracked.

I hope not, after what I paid to get it rebuilt it better be perfect.

but also have an explosion if your car backfires when trying to start..

Explosion? That's not good (understatement)
I pulled the dipstick Wednesday morning (drove it last on Saturday) and I think I detected a very slight gas smell... but I may be mistaken...

I'll definitely change the oil ASAP to see what is in the pan. Hopefully any gas in there was deposited before the rebuild.

 

[moparleo]

Please keep us posted.

 

[Cuda360]

OK. So there was no gas in the oil pan as far as I could tell; that is a good thing! I'm subscribing to the evaporating gas theory. When the car sits for a day or two it will start without issue. A week and it is hesitant.

On another note I sold the car this past weekend. New owner takes over later this week. I've been a little depressed the last couple of days...
I actually found out that it is a #'s matching car. (hmmm, #s matching, all options, rare color combo, final year...I hope this isn't a huge mistake)
But not to fret, I'll be back. I'm scheduled to look at 2 more Mopars this weekend: 68 Charger R/T and a 73 Challenger. Both with 440.
I'd like to stick with E-bodies for 2 reasons: 1 - I really like them. 2 - The Charger may not fit in my garage.

Thanks for the help and advice. With any luck I'll be posting pictures of my new car by the end of next week.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have Charger 440 4 spd you may be interested in ,

 

[Cuda360]

Less than one week later I'm back in the game. This weekend I signed papers to acquire this 73 Challenger.
It could use a little body work, but overall, it is quite nice.

 

[Cuda360]

More Pictures...

 

[Chryco Psycho]

looks good !!

 

[moparleo]

Looks to be a 383/440 transplanted in the car. Can you get some closer pictures of the engine compartment with the aircleaner removed so we can see more details of the engine and wiring ?

 

[Cuda360]

Looks to be a 383/440 transplanted in the car. Can you get some closer pictures of the engine compartment with the aircleaner removed so we can see more details of the engine and wiring ?

Some of the electrical seems a bit odd, I haven't been able to break it down yet ...

 

[moparleo]

Well, I can see that the fast idle linkage is missing.This is to set idle a lttle higher until the engine warms up and then the idle speed drops back down to normal.
Check this diagram.View attachment 8705