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1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible

340challconvert

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Every tool should work as good as that Blair cutter.

DetMatt, I took your recommendation to buy the Blair cutters; good call, they make an easy job of cutting the spot welds.
I pre-drilled a dimple to prevent wander, and completed most of the spot welds inside the trunk using only one cutter so far with machine oil.
Have to go to the inside wheel wells next to get at the side welds.
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RJHJR

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I count myself as lucky.
Spent a minimum of 4 hours removing the left side, rear caster bolt in trying to get the UC arm out.
The metal sleeve had welded itself to the bolt.
Soaked it over several days with CRC, still would not budge.

Heated it up with a propane torch just created black smoke. (was hoping to deteriorate the rubber and loosen the bolt_
Finally was able to to pry at the washer side while hitting the threaded end with a small hammer. (limited ability to swing the hammer on the back side).
Then was able to pry the UCA out. Will definately use anti=seize compound on the reinstall

Lower control arm, removed the strut rod bolts, sway bar bolt and bolt holding the arm to the K frame, and the clip holding the torsion bar.
I'll be dammed but the torsion bar slid back with a little resistance after prying out the LCA stud.

Will now clean up the mounting area and start parts replacement!
View attachment 42033
Believe it or not bees wax often can loosen a seized nut or bolt. Heat it up. put a little bees wax where it will wick into the threads and wait a couple of minutes.
 

340challconvert

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Believe it or not bees wax often can loosen a seized nut or bolt. Heat it up. put a little bees wax where it will wick into the threads and wait a couple of minutes.
and give it a try!
RJHJR
Thanks for your thoughts on this. Never thought of using bees wax.
Finally sprayed it Kano Aerokroil-industrial style penetrating oil that a friend recommended. Worked very well; better then CRC
Sprayed twice and let it sit over night, used a pry bar and was able to remove it. This stuff is supposed to "creep" into the joint to loosen rust.
I did use ant-seize on installing new caster bolts.
Have to keep the bee's wax in mind for other rusty bolts on the car
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340challconvert

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Finally reached the point of no return on my trunk floor replacement; trunk floor is out of the car.
Man, now the clean up of the frame rails and some hammer/dolly work to flatten out the lip and wheel well housing edges.
Will need to do some small metal replacement at the back edge of the wheel wells and it looks like I will at least need a trunk floor drop off on the passenger side.
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340challconvert

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Have you bought the new pan yet? Good job on the removal btw.

Thanks for the feed back.
Plan to pick up the AMD 2 piece pan for the install.
Assessing the need for the drop offs. Looks like the passenger side piece will definitely have to be replaced.
Looking at pricing at different vendors
Best price so far was $333.00 for the trunk floor pair w free shipping
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340challconvert

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Just ordered the AMD gas tank braces for $101.00 from JEGS w free s/h
Best price I found for these anywhere

Jeggs has a sale on these pieces only right now:
Auto Metal Direct Trunk Floor Brace 1970-1974 E-Body 106-820-1570-P
134.99 regular price $101.10 $33.89 OFF
Good price if anyone needs them
shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcTH9OJ5o1q2uoxu3ApvB9QnWQ61_K0v0zTQBoK4V8bqA-X_XCNX&usqp=CAE.jpg
 

340challconvert

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Found what I think is a decent deal on
the AMD trunk floor.
Picked up the two piece floor for $333.00 w free shipping

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340challconvert

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Trunk floor came today
Came quick w free shipping by UPS
Came to the door in 5 days.
Now the fun begins.
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