1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible

[340challconvert]

I took a pic of my tire info tag in the door jam prior to removing it for cleaning up the door jams
Wanted to note the original location of the tag
Tag notes the standard E-60 15 tires originally on the car.

 

[340challconvert]

Finally stripped the interior floor to metal for assessment of repairs
Assessing how I should go about patching
Does not need a full front pan, metal shows some small holes. Poked hard with a pick after sanding with 60 grit. Showed no mercy!
Looks like small patch needed on left side below wire mold channel and a larger patch at the transition crease below the pedals.
Looking at the left side front-AMD panel and cut as needed.

 

[340challconvert]

Update:
Continuing to strip paint off of front radiator and engine compartment frame
Tedious and slow work, but well worth it! Sheet metal cleaning up nicely
Will epoxy primer metal stripped areas soon.
Working small areas at a time.
The factory grey primer sure is tough to remove

 

[340challconvert]

Cleaning up K Frame
Has "coin" tag on it with number 12
Understand this is the K frame part number 2962012 designated for early 1970 340-383 cars
Looking for K frame date code- should be on front of unit?

 

[340challconvert]

In cleaning up and updating the front suspension
Looks like the original cosmoline dip line on the left side lower control arm is still there!

 

[DetMatt1]

Date code will be dead center under the crank pulley facing forward. You might have to wire brush it to see it.

 

[340challconvert]

As per Matt, found the date code on the center of the K frame after cleaning the area.
K-Frame coded out as 2939-1 October 20th, 1969.
Interesting since my SBD was October 6th, 1969

 

[moparlee]

Nice job! It's awesome that you are finding all those cool details. That's what is so nice about having such a clean original car to work with.

Just a thought, you might want to pick up one of those small pot blasters to get around all those small nooks and crannies. And it will save you some of that elbow grease!

 

[340challconvert]

Were there factory paint markings on the center link when a car was built?
Cleaning/replacing my front suspension, found these markings after removing the dirt and grease.
There are some very distinct markings on the center link.

 

[340challconvert]

Interesting Information regarding paint markings on the assembly line:
- Some markings were put on the part by the manufacturer
- Some markings were added to the car during the assembly process.
I found this information on MMC Detroit regarding this:
International Chrysler Collector Authority Section # 9 Production Inspection marks


Thank you to MMC Detroit for the Data!

Paint markings Information as per MMC DETROIT

This section of the ICCA "Finer Points of a Mopar" manual in intended to provide some insight into the paint markings found on Chrysler vehicles. This manual is a work in progress and will be continuously updated as new information is discovered.

It has been a challenge compiling the most accurate and objective assembly information because there were two assembly plants for A bodies, up to five assembly plants for 1966-72 B bodies and two assembly plants for E bodies. Each plant had variations to numerous assembly processes and suppliers of components through out any given production period. However, the ICCA thought about inspection/judging a Mopar is to "never say it's not possible". There are still production processes today that are not consistently followed from day to day or vehicle to vehicle.

There is about 25-30 different paint markings on a vehicle. Just under half of the paint marks that appear were applied by inspectors during the final assembly phase of the vehicle. The majority of the paint marks and grease pencil were already on parts that arrived to the point of assembly from outside suppliers.

Many of the paint marks that are found on vehicles were actually part identification marks. These markings were applied outside of the final assembly point by the supplier of the part. In a high production assembly environment it is more efficient and it reduces the chances of error for the operators to look specific parts for installation to look for identifying colors then to read a part number. It is important to understand that production parts were not delivered to the point of assembly in boxes with part numbers. All parts were delivered in large dunnage containers.

Some procedures vary between assembly plants. Other marks may have been used early in the model year then relaxed as the assembly line workers understood how to perform their job. Very few vehicles received all the paint ID and/or inspection marks. The types and colors of the ID and inspection marks may very by the assembly plants processes and/or period of production.

The most common places to find paint daubs on the front suspension are the lower ball joints, lower control arms, idler or outer tie rods, idler arms, center link, pitman are, steering box, spindles and torsion bars.


Final assembly Inspection Marks
The paint colors used were primarily very close to the actual vehicle colors offered by Chrysler. However, the paint was a solid color and did not contain metallic flakes.
Part Identification color codes
The paint color codes used by suppliers were not the same paint colors that Chrysler offered as vehicle colors. The colors used were typical solid colors (i.e., red, blue, yellow, black, orange, pink, green etc...).

The color on my front center link seems to be the number 7 Blue?

 

[340challconvert]

I'm hoping, that as I continue to clean the chassis, I find more markings?

 

[340challconvert]

As I cleaned up the front steering suspension;
Found remnants of the orange paint markings in the castle nuts.
I understand from "correct" restorations pics I have seen, these again were factory inspection marks during assembly!
Kind of cool to see that some of the markings are still visible.

Since they apparently used factory colors to do the inspection marks:
the color looks like dabs of hemi orange?

 

[340challconvert]

Headlight Bezels and Grill Color
Starting to look at cleaning and painting the grill in-between other resto tasks
My A66 grill was painted black over the obvious argent along time ago. Want to return to original lite argent color.
Original Challenger grills were lite argent? Yes?

Compared a very used bezel in argent to the argent showing on the grill and to an NOS pair of bezels that I have.
Looks like age darkened the argent a little compared to the NOS bezel.
Has anyone used Totally Auto for the textured argent paint?
Want to make sure the grill matches the NOS bezels.

 

[DetMatt1]

The A66 grilles were argent and I have used the paint from Totally Auto but it was the dark argent for '71 on a Charger resto a few years back. The paint looked amazing but I wasn't trying to match any nos parts, you are just going to have to buy a can and hope for the best match you can get.

 

[340challconvert]

Wheel Well ready for epoxy, paint and undercoat Before and After cleanup. Feel like some progress is happening!

 

[DetMatt1]

Progress feels good, looks good too!

 

[340challconvert]

I count myself as lucky.
Spent a minimum of 4 hours removing the left side, rear caster bolt in trying to get the UC arm out.
The metal sleeve had welded itself to the bolt.
Soaked it over several days with CRC, still would not budge.

Heated it up with a propane torch just created black smoke. (was hoping to deteriorate the rubber and loosen the bolt_
Finally was able to to pry at the washer side while hitting the threaded end with a small hammer. (limited ability to swing the hammer on the back side).
Then was able to pry the UCA out. Will definately use anti=seize compound on the reinstall

Lower control arm, removed the strut rod bolts, sway bar bolt and bolt holding the arm to the K frame, and the clip holding the torsion bar.
I'll be dammed but the torsion bar slid back with a little resistance after prying out the LCA stud.

Will now clean up the mounting area and start parts replacement!

 

[340challconvert]

Front end parts and prices at this point: Summit 3 day delivery
Front End Rebuild May 2016
MOG-K7293 UPPER CONTROL ARM BUMPER EACH $5.97 x 2 $11.94
MOG-K781 LOWER BALL JOINT $44.97
MOG-K783 LOWER BALL JOINT $44.97
MOG-K3180 LOWER CONTROL ARM BUMPER $7.97 x 2 $15.94
MOG-K5241 SWAY BAR BUSHING KIT $5.97 x 2 $11.94
MOG-K5255 LINK KIT 4.97 x 2 $9.94
MOG-K7026 STRUT ROD $43.97 $43.97
MOG-K791 LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING $12.97 x 2 $25.94

Control Arm Purchase w new bushings and ball joint
GOODMARK
GMK2130972621L
Control Arm
$ 142.89

GOODMARK
GMK2130972621R
Control Arm
$ 142.89

 

[DetMatt1]

If I order from summit before 3pm I'll have my parts the next morning without any special shipping. Amazes me every time.

 

[340challconvert]

If I order from summit before 3pm I'll have my parts the next morning without any special shipping. Amazes me every time.

They are great, quick and fast. I actually got deliveries on a Sunday