1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible

[wingcarenvy]

Cool thread, I can't think of a better way to spend my retirement than what your doing!!

 

[340challconvert]

Thank you. Really is very satisfying after all these years.

 

[340challconvert]

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator
Finished cleaning the sheet metal in the front wheel well, some minor pitting
80 grit to clean up and promote a good grip on the metal
Tried the Eastwood product, and will epoxy prime next
Product seems pretty good, dried hard with good adhesion.
Needs to be scuffed prior to primer
The epoxy should go on smooth.
Happy with the result.

 

[DetMatt1]

That looks great. I tried a bunch of different products when I was doing the serious metal work on my '68 Road Runner and the Eastwood encapsulator was one of the standouts both in rattlecan and by the quart.

 

[340challconvert]

That looks great. I tried a bunch of different products when I was doing the serious metal work on my '68 Road Runner and the Eastwood encapsulator was one of the standouts both in rattlecan and by the quart.

Thank you. Very happy with the result of the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator

 

[340challconvert]

Removed the wide stainless molding at the base of the windshield to start cleaning up the cowl area
Luck again, some pitting, but no rust through. Oddly, the right side is a little more pitted. Will clean up and use the encapsulator again.

I noticed a rubber or plastic wedge at the rt side base of the windshield. I understand that the factory used these to install windshields to hold it in place.

Secondly, there was a chrome clip on the right side base, with the wedge part under the windshield. Again, was this to hold the window in place?

Original windshield, so these items are original factory.

 

[challenger6pak]

That's classic. The stainless part is from a moulding piece. Looks like they ran out of the rubber wedges and used what was available. The idea was to get the car out so they could go home for the day. Seems it worked.

 

[340challconvert]

Cowl Area after stripping
Lucky, no heavy rust or rot, looks pretty good.
Will metal prep and windshield removal
Ready for Eastwood Primer

View attachment 27947

 

[340challconvert]

Lower Control Arms
Looked at the cost of a machine shop to press out and repress in the LCA bushing/spindle. Wanted $95 per side
Went to Harbor Freight (hate Chinese Junk) but bought a 12 ton press for a $110 dollars. About 1 1/2 hour to assemble
Worked pretty well in pressing out the spindle and inner shell, also bought a tool from American Muscle to remove the steel sleeve
Will see how well it works? Got this recommendation from another Mopar enthusiast.

"MOPAR Lower Control Arm Bushing Sleeve Remover A, B, E

TECHNICAL SPECS

• THIS TOOL REMOVES THE STEEL BUSHING THAT IS LEFT BEHIND AFTER THE LOWER CONTROL ARM PIVOT IS REMOVED. THIS SLEEVE MUST BE REMOVED IF YOU ARE GOING TO REPLACE THE RUBBER BUSHINGS.
• THIS TOOL NEEDS TO BEE USED IN CONJUCTION WITH #23491"

Overall the LCA and old spindle do not look too bad.
Purchased the Suspension kit from PST complete with the new spindle and bushing along with the stiffening plate.
Want to get the front end back together (been 3 months, work goes slow)

 

[DetMatt1]

Nice work! I just did the upper control arm bushings and ball joints on my Imperial and the lowers are next so I'm glad you posted this. Provided they're the same which I think they are.

 

[340challconvert]

In my research, some mechanics use a 1-3/8 inch x 12 tpi Tap.
Got the idea from hemi71x
It is screwed into the outer metal shell and then pressed out with the press
If the American Muscle tool doesn't work well, this is an alternative way to get the sleeve out.
It was also suggested that it is easier to put the tap into a vice and screw the control arm into the tap.

Either way I want to remove it without damaging the LCA.

Of course there is always the rude and crude, but effective method for removing the Shell!

 

[moparlee]

Yep, I have used the rude and crude method 2 or 3 times. Just be careful not to cut too deep.

 

[340challconvert]

Found more old pics of my A66 Challenger convertible from the early 80's
Attending the Hemi Owners Association Meeting in Mass. in Summer 1982

Note my friend's 70 Cuda convertible 340 parked next to my car.
I went with him when he bought the Cuda for $400 in Union, NJ in 1981.
Car had a ripped up roof, no exhaust system on the car and was sitting down a dead end street in an industrial area. When we got there at 10:00 pm at night, another potential buyer was there arguing with the owner to get it for $300. My friend immediately pulled out 4, 100 dollar bills and paid the owner. And by the way: it had a shaker hood and factory rubber bumpers on it!

 

[moparlee]

Old pictures are great. They always bring back memories from the good ol'days.

 

[DetMatt1]

What year did your buddy get rid of the Cuda?

 

[340challconvert]

What year did your buddy get rid of the Cuda?

We lost touch after the 1980's after I left my old home town. The new found old picture prompted me to Google his name.
Apparently, he lives about 10 miles away from me now.
He may still own it, but I doubt it. You never know?
I'm going to look him up. He'll be in shock.

 

[quapman]

From a few days ago...that chrome clip was probably attached to the corner molding before you took the molding off. 40+ year old windshield goo tends to not let go easily. I doubt it was used to support the glass. The two stainless pieces are not welded (just crimped), so you see this once in a while when disassembling a car. I need pics, but have none (as usual...LOL).

 

[quapman]

Terrible pics, but I ganked them off ebay.

 

[340challconvert]

From a few days ago...that chrome clip was probably attached to the corner molding before you took the molding off. 40+ year old windshield goo tends to not let go easily. I doubt it was used to support the glass. The two stainless pieces are not welded (just crimped), so you see this once in a while when disassembling a car. I need pics, but have none (as usual...LOL).

quapman, thanks for your thoughts
The spacer piece was attached to the wide chrome cowl base with the "goop", on top of the rubber wedge holding the windshield in place
It was not physically attached to the wide chrome base molding, but had a good coat of black sealer holding it to the cowl.
Your pics are the chrome piece that connects to the wide chrome at the bottom and transitions to the thin windshield surround molding. There is also no hole drilled in the piece.
Did not seem to have any purpose, except may be to hold the windshield base chrome molding in a certain position?
The piece is chromed and bent to the contours of the bottom cowl angles
The picture above shows exactly how it was positioned under the molding
Has anyone else ever seen this piece when removing the lower cowl base chrome?
Windshield is original to the car and I'don't believe that the base chrome had ever been removed.

 

[quapman]

Did your original corner piece have a screw holding it on? Sorry, my OCD has me going on this one!