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1972 Dodge Challenger

tsaarts

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Been working with lot of small stuff. Car is driving and even the brake problems got almost solved. I bleeded the brakes with vacuum and adjusted rear drums. Now the pedal goes hard at about half way to the floor. Might not be as it should but much better than before. Maybe anyone now what is the correct master for manual disc setup. My Master is CENTRIC 13063014. Anyone know is it correct one? - It has 1-1/32 inch bore.

Been thinking a lot about my seats. Original seats would need frame welding, new foam and leather - making it expensive. I looked much of aftermarket seats but most of them are too tall and looked funny in this car. Finally scored some old Recaros from Ford Escort RS2000. Much more comfortable than original seats and i think look good even with wrong upholstry colour. Later might want to change covers to mach with rest of interior. I m adapting original e-body tracks.

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tsaarts

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Made some progress with interior. I got the seats covered. Made some changes with the layout to get rear and front seats to mach. Also whole interior is a little bit more beige than original. More closer to the headliner colour.

There are still some problems with interior. Some plastics are deformed over the years and getting dash done is a problem. I do not like the look of leather covered dash and new ones are with transportation really expensive.

I also read a bit about sound insulation. Used some mat for doors and roof. Also used plastic for moisture insulation and a lot of foam for door and quarter plastics. It is much more silent and door closing sound is much better. Door fastening holes where out of shape so i used rivetnuts.
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hellrats

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You are doing a fantastic job! You are a man on a mission for sure! :cool:
 

70chall440

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Made some progress with interior. I got the seats covered. Made some changes with the layout to get rear and front seats to mach. Also whole interior is a little bit more beige than original. More closer to the headliner colour.

There are still some problems with interior. Some plastics are deformed over the years and getting dash done is a problem. I do not like the look of leather covered dash and new ones are with transportation really expensive.

I also read a bit about sound insulation. Used some mat for doors and roof. Also used plastic for moisture insulation and a lot of foam for door and quarter plastics. It is much more silent and door closing sound is much better. Door fastening holes where out of shape so i used rivetnuts.
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Great work.

A little late now but on those door screw slots (that are always deformed and no longer grip the screw) if you use some welding clamps (the type with the balls on each arm) you can compress those deformed slots and make them usable again. Using a long set from someplace like Harbor Freight you can get almost all of them to work again.
 

tsaarts

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I have always liked mopar oval air cleaners. Original TA setup is expensive but next best thing seems to be Ramcharger/Air Grabber setup from B-body. There were little to none information about these air cleaners in e-body especially with TA hood. So i decided to bite the bullet and tried myself. For the record if anybody is interested about height, my setup is B-block big block with original k-member and motor mounts. Performer rpm intake, street demon carb with air grabber for 440 engine (440 setup is shorter than 383 setup). It fits under my TA hood quite well. No height issues. It is possible to install some custom seal under the hood to seal hot air but to be honest i use this air cleaner and hood mostly for looks and performance is not priority.

In my engine bay i think original valve covers with orange painted intake, heads and valve covers would be much better to look.
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