383 Crankshaft input needed...

[tomps]

383 Crankshaft input..UPDATE pulled bearing cap & head

Hi All,

Well I pulled my 383 out of my 70 RT/SE. Car is in for paint for the winter. Confirmed it is period correct but the VIN does not match my car. Didn't think it did. Anyway, I pulled the pan off because the oil pan gasket was leaking badly. The engine ran very strong and I wasn't planning on doing a complete overhaul or anything but I could use some input.

Figures...broke off 1 exhaust manifold stud flush ARGH!!!!

Sorry if I sound numb....this is my 1st MOPAR engine tear down and I'm no where near qualified as a mechanic or anything. I know very little basic stuff. Anyway, I pulled the pan and this is what I saw....

I wasn't at all expecting to see rust spots? And quite a bit of wear end parts of the crank? I think some of this wear is normal but I'm getting a few conflicting stories. Any thoughts based on the pics??

-Mark in frozen Maine BRRRRR!!!

 

[moparleo]

You said you are limited in your mechanical knowledge and that is ok. We all started out the same. Before you break anything else, I would find a mentor to help you and be able to explain what you are doing and seeing. Until you have more automotive experience under your belt, the more questions that you ask, the more confusing it can get. After you find some good instruction, it would probably be a good idea and disassemble the rest of the engine. It looks as though someone has been in it before and it is better to find out now if there are any unknown problems than to wait until the restoration is done and you have to start over again.

 

[Moparparts]

I have a good 383 crank if you end up needing one PM me

 

[Chryco Psycho]

What oil pressure did you have , Why do you think the crank is bad ??
Pull a couple of the rod brg caps & inspect the brgs , why do you think you need a crank , it is a steel crank [good] looks like it was balanced [also good].
I would install a new timing chain you just have the cheap one in there , get a double roller at least . install a windage tray with the oil pan when you put it back together .
Get the head stud out & install all new studs , there is coolant behind the studs so make sure they are sealed well when you install new ones .

 

[tomps]

Advice and input noted guys thank you. My oil pressure was fine, engine ran fine for the short time I tried it. Through some research it it looks like somebody might have been in there and done some work 20+ years ago. I'm leaning now towards sending it out to a professional machine shop to check over. It's too intimidating to me and I'm afraid of screwing something up. Taking apart is one thing but putting back together...well that's a science beyond my comfort level. Thought I wanted to try it but getting cold feet. Probably the right thing to do.

The car is coming nicely at the body shop though!

 

[moper]

There is no reason to believe there is a problem. Surface rust happens, especailly if a car is parked for a very long time (or the engine is stored). Thje marks (drill marks) are from a shop balancing the crank. The "scrape" sort of marks are part of the original shaping of the crank in production. I would worry about it, pull a couple caps like Neil mentioned, and leave it alone. I see nothign wrong with it besides the cheap stock replacement timing chain that should be replaced witha quality double roller.

 

[ramenth]

Surface rust happens, especailly if a car is parked for a very long time (or the engine is stored).

That's what popped into my head when I saw it, too.

The guys have given you some good advice on what they're seeing, tomps. Nothing really to sweat about it as long as the bearings look good when you pull the caps as suggested and replace the chain with something better.

The stud is easy enough to get out, especially in an iron block, especially if you have a drill and a torch.

 

[tomps]

Well thanks to alls input I had the courage to pull a cap this morning....

Both the journal and the bearing were as smooth as a newborns baby's tooshy. Can't see any copper on the bearing or etching?? Pulling the head off next. Been reading A LOT on how to properly remove the rocker assembly, push rods and head so nothing ventured nothing gained

Thanks again for the education folks!!

 

[tomps]

Got the head pulled too.....

 

[tomps]

Also, can anyone help me decode this ID stamping?

I know F 383 stands for 1970 383.

I'm confused with the next row of stampings... 25 2 ??

 

[Chryco Psycho]

F 383 is a 70 383 , no HP so not a magnum , not sure what else is there just see a 25

 

[tomps]

F 383 is a 70 383 , no HP so not a magnum , not sure what else is there just see a 25

Yeah hard to get a clear picture. Looks like this...

F 383
25 2

That's all the markings? The 25 2 confuses me. There's several spaces betwwen the 25 and 2???

-Mark