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727 Shift Kit Question: Do I need a kickdown cable/linkage?

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73Challengr

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I've got a 73 Challeger i'm going to put a shift kit in (vendor recommendations welcome). It currently doesn't have a kickdown cable/linkage (vendor recommendations welcome). Will I need one? Thanks much!
 
The kick down must be connected or you will burn up your trans. The kick down regulates the internal line pressures.
The linkages are application specific and there are many different oe setups. If you have a stock carb, manifold setup you can get the factory setup relatively easily. If you have changed the carb, manifold F.I etc... it would be easier to get a cable setup from a company like LOKAR.
Do not drive with it disconnected or you will damage your transmission.
The LowDown On Stock Torqueflite Kick-Down Linkage
 
It's a bit of a miracle your transmission still works at all. A 727's lifespan can usually be measured in feet when it's run without linkage. You might want to start saving for that rebuild now.

I'm not trying to be Debbie Downer here, that's just the reality of TorqueFlite livin'.
 
@73Challengr These guys ain't lying. The linkage was disconnected at the trans on my Barracuda when I bought it, and by the looks of it, had been disconnected for some time. I connected it and made sure the linkage was moving correctly, but I suspect it was too late -- the car goes through all three gears by about 35 mph. Moral of the story is to DEFINITELY get that linkage connected -- whether it's the stock linkage or a cable -- but you need it 100%. I wouldn't drive your car another inch until you have something in place.
 
Yes you need the kickdown lingage. If your intake/carb is stock then use the factory rods/lingages, if your stuffs aftermarket then use a cable. I had modified my stock linkages back in the day and I thought it was all good. But car would shift into 3rd by 35mph and wouldn't downshift when you punch it. I didn't realize the kickdown linkages were hitting the firewall. I installed a lokar cable, adjusted it, and now the tranny does what its supposed too. Made a world of difference.
 
Been off for a few days... appreciate all the feedback. Ordered the LOKAR cable and will be getting in soon...before driving it.

1972CudaV21 - Boom! :-) He had a 69 Camaro, early 70s vette and a late 60's Ford F100 in his stable.​

 
Appreciate the feedback from y'all! I got the Lokar kickdown cable installed and calibrated today and ya...no more soft shifts, very crisp shifts and at what I would consider a normal RPM range.

I'm not transmission guy but the shifts felt to soft so I kept a real light foot, lifted off the throttle and manually shifted for a while. After reading the feedback here, I feel lucky as h#11 I noticed it, could have destroyed the transmission. But all good now.

The back story is, the kickdown linkage was there but the previous owner put an aftermarket Holley carb on when the engine was re-built and the linkage was never engaged. Even at WOT the carb never came close to the linkage kickdown point. After reading a few articles, the consensus was, the kickdown linkage geometry was designed for the thermo quad and it's a b1tch to get the correct linkage travel for an aftermarket carb. Good product those Lokar cables, very happy with it.

So anyway, thanks for the feedback, I owe y'all some beers, you probably saved me from a large transmission rebuild bill.

🍻🍻🍻
 
73Challengr said:
The back story is, the kickdown linkage was there but the previous owner put an aftermarket Holley carb on when the engine was re-built and the linkage was never engaged. Even at WOT the carb never came close to the linkage kickdown point. After reading a few articles, the consensus was, the kickdown linkage geometry was designed for the thermo quad and it's a b1tch to get the correct linkage travel for an aftermarket carb.
Click to expand...

When replacing a factory carb with an aftermarket unit you need Holley part number 49-7, a.k.a. "Chrysler throttle lever extension". It places the factory throttle stud in exactly the right place for both the throttle cable and kickdown linkage. It costs like $10 and I'm always amazed at how many Mopars I see with half-assed throttle connections on their aftermarket carbs. The same part should be used on aftermarket AFB/ThermoQuad (Comp Series) and "El-duh-brah" carburetors, none of which have a proper locating hole for the Mopar throttle stud.

49-7qft.jpg


I'm glad you've got it all worked out and that your transmission is working as expected... suddently it's a different world, huh? Also, good on you for pussy-footing it in the meantime.
 
This is what the lever extension looks like installed on the 9381 on my Valiant:

100_3791mod.jpg


100_3793mod.jpg
 
Hi, I’m just a little late to this party but I really like the Chrysler linkage, here is an after market repop of it. It looks so correct when installed. Just my opinion.
please shot us a picture of yours when you get it completed 👍👍

1619738133835.jpeg
 
I am thinkin of installing a Lokar kickdown cable. I have a 340 block, TTI Headers, 750 QuickFuel Carb, and 727 transmission with the solid single push rod going from the carb throttle linkage to the transmission lever. It works well but rubs on the throttle cable, and can move side to side a lot. I think the pull cable design will be more stable and get things separated better. They have multiple versions including a standard version with no length designation, a 60" and a 72". Does anyone know what length or version of the Lokar cables fits best for this combination?.
 
I used the 72" one on my 383/727. The cable needs to pull the kickdown linkage rearward so my cable goes from the carb, over the top of the tranny (to the passengerside), then does a loop (ontop of tranny/under the floor) and is mounted on the tranny. The cable might seem alittle long but theres no tight spots where the inner cable/wire might bind inside the cable sleeve. You could use a wire to do a test run on how you would run the cable, measure it, and order the length thats closest.
 
Thanks. I think your right. The best thing is to use a length of cable to try different routings and measure the length. Is your cable going fwd coming off the carb connected to a crank on the top side of the pivot, or going aft coming off a crank on the bottom side of the pivot?
 
My cable goes rearward off the carb. I have a holley 850 warrior carb for which I could not find a kickdown lingage for so I made my own. I also fab'd up a throttle/tranny cable mounting bracket so I raised everything up. (I have a eddy rpm intake + 1 inch carb spacer). I wanted to keep the factory throttle lingage, the lokar mounting system is meant to be used with their throttle cable & their bracket uses the rear driverside carb bolt for bolting it down. I noticed that the bracket would move forward when you hammer on the gas, just enough that the secondaries would be 100% open. I'll take a picture when I get home so you can see my setup.
 
Summit & Mancini make a adjustable mounting bracket (i stole their design, mopar raised throttle bracket). Theres also another style that uses both driverside carb bolts for mounting. Either or they are better then the lokar mounting kit. I also made a "L" bracket for mounting the cable on the tranny side.
 

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