73 barracuda tries to run only in the start position.

[Flathead31coupe]

So after a little bit of time, I finally got the new wine harness installed new ballast resistor new starter relay. And came the grand moment to start when I tried it , it lit off as i'm holding the key in the start position stopped when I let up.. I'm sure it's been discussed a lot of times.. The ballast resistor drops down the votage from one side to the other.And on the other spade clip, it stays the same voltage.The ballast resistor has four posts.. Thoughts are appreciated..

 

[tonysrt]

You're not getting 12 volts at the ballast resistor in the run position which drops it to about 6-8 volts. In the start position you should have more volts to the coil, 8-10 volts, when you are in the run position check voltage at the ballast, or you are not getting voltage from ignition switch. Also check volts at the coil in the run position. A voltmeter is a necessary tool to check this.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Brown is start run is blue.

 

[Flathead31coupe]

Ok thanks alot

 

[Flathead31coupe]

Brown is start run is blue.
View attachment 152435View attachment 152439View attachment 152438

I have 6.5v coming from slot 22 the brn wire from the firewall to the ballast. I have 12.65 at the battery.. And I have the same volts on the red wire.. Going to the ignition switch .. But only have 11.5 on the fuses.. When I touched the positive cable to the battery with the key on or the off i hear something clicking on the passenger side in the dash.. Not sure if it matters or not.But I added a rally dash and wiring harness.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Follow the dots. Understand how it's wired first. Blue charge circuit, yellow battery supply, red ACC circuit. Headlight sw is feed from splice one under dash.
One word explains the wiring and connections. Inadequate! Read Description and follow the dots. The wiring is not heavy enough and the connection were not designed to carry that much amperage 1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block, 2:charge wire 18 black wire blue dots to splice one through amp meter to red wire blue dot 16 to battery, 3:ACC feed from splice 1 Red wire Q3_12R yellow dot to steering column. Black wire 12BK red dot to ACC side of fuse box.ch load. The round back alt has an output of 37 to 45 amps max and the wiring is designed for that.
When everything is in good shape.

 

[Challenger RTA]

In short. 1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block. Check the battery terminal at the fuse bottom of the fuse block for voltage. If it's not same there as the battery, there's a bad connection at 16. Don't forget to check the motor and chassis ground by the battery. To be sure you have a good ground connect to the battery negative. If you have good voltage when testing at the fuse box batt terminal. It's the ground somewhere.

 

[Flathead31coupe]

In short. 1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block. Check the battery terminal at the fuse bottom of the fuse block for voltage. If it's not there the a bad connection at 16. Don't forget to check the motor and chassis ground by the battery. To be sure you have a good ground connect to the battery negative. If you have good voltage when testing at the fuse box batt terminal. It's the ground

In short. 1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block. Check the battery terminal at the fuse bottom of the fuse block for voltage. If it's not same there as the battery, there the a bad connection at 16. Don't forget to check the motor and chassis ground by the battery. To be sure you have a good ground connect to the battery negative. If you have good voltage when testing at the fuse box batt terminal. It's the ground somewhere.

I have 12.65 at that battery terminal....but 11.5 at the fuses... I will check the grounds...

 

[Challenger RTA]

There could be a 1 volt loss. That better than 6.5v coming from slot 22 the brn wire. Check the red wire at the plug under the steering column. Keep it plugged in. use a Paper clip if need be. And check both sides of the plug. If there is not the correct voltage on both sides. Unplug and inspect clean if need be. Then be sure it's connected.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Next if you have good voltage at the red wire. Unplug the yellow wire in the starter relay. Turn key to start and check both sides of the brown wire. The brown wire from the plug, feeds slot 22 the brown wire from the firewall to the ballast. Here again. If there is not the correct voltage on both sides. Unplug and inspect clean if need be. Then be sure it's connected. If it is good on both sides. It's the bulkhead connector. Unplug and clean. Keep in mind to look for pinched or broken wire. Might be a bad ign sw if voltage is not following through with the correct voltage reading.

 

[Flathead31coupe]

Next if you have good voltage at the red wire. Unplug the yellow wire in the starter relay. Turn key to start and check both sides of the brown wire. The brown wire from the plug, feeds slot 22 the brown wire from the firewall to the ballast. Here again. If there is not the correct voltage on both sides. Unplug and inspect clean if need be. Then be sure it's connected. If it is good on both sides. It's the bulkhead connector. Unplug and clean. Keep in mind to look for pinched or broken wire. Might be a bad ign sw if voltage is not following through with the correct voltage reading.

So i've got 12v on the red on both sides of the plug.. And only 6.5v on the brown wire coming from the plug with the key in the position.. so the Brown wire gets its power through the Ignition switch Correct?Possible ignition switch issues

 

[Challenger RTA]

YES. Wire or connection too.

 

[Challenger RTA]

If you are able to jump a wire from the red wire at the plug to the brown wire when cranking. If it fires right up that's your problem. Ign sw. Note the brow wire feeds full 12v to the coil for starting only. I think you understand that. remove as it starts. a extra second or two wont hurt. Turn the key to start the remove jumper as it starts. Or you could put a momentary switch there temporally. There still could be a bad connection at the bulkhead connector that you might have to deal with.

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[Flathead31coupe]

If you are able to jump a wire from the red wire at the plug to the brown wire when cranking. If it fires right up that's your problem. Ign sw. Note the brow wire feeds full 12v to the coil for starting only. I think you understand that. remove as it starts. a extra second or two wont hurt. Turn the key to start the remove jumper as it starts. Or you could put a momentary switch there temporally. There

If you are able to jump a wire from the red wire at the plug to the brown wire when cranking. If it fires right up that's your problem. Ign sw. Note the brow wire feeds full 12v to the coil for starting only. I think you understand that. remove as it starts. a extra second or two wont hurt. Turn the key to start the remove jumper as it starts. Or you could put a momentary switch there temporally. There still could be a bad connection at the bulkhead connector that you might have to deal with.
View attachment 152458

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/it...etYHd0pRhmAfzD8OV9hYX0wA==|tkp:Bk9SR7Tlls-mZw

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Thanks for the help once again.... After check in everything you had me to check and redoing the connectors from the ignition switch to the wiring harness now works..

 

[Flathead31coupe]

L o l sent you are on a roll.. Any clue where this double black spade clip , wire goes.. Also , there is a black spade wire on the driver's side where the door light switch is not sure where it plugs in at or if it's missing a clip of some sort two plug for ground , thanks

 

[Challenger RTA]

MH harness don't know if the color codes are the same. Part of the A01 light package. The one under the hood could be for A/C. not sure.

electric choke?
Brake test?

 

[Flathead31coupe]

MH harness don't know if the color codes are the same. Part of the A01 light package. The one under the hood could be for A/C. not sure.

View attachment 152479View attachment 152480 electric choke?
Brake test?
View attachment 152486

MH harness don't know if the color codes are the same. Part of the A01 light package. The one under the hood could be for A/C. not sure.

View attachment 152479View attachment 152480 electric choke?
Brake test?
View attachment 152486

Thanks again.Whatever that black spade wire goes to on the driver's side, it's in the same harness as the yellow wire that goes to the door switch.There's only two wires there , and it has twelve volts on it

 

[Flathead31coupe]

So far I have windshield wipers amp gauge oil gauge... And heater fan motor
I don't have any of the upper light bar lights.in the dash I did check in before I put it in the dash... Also , no console light bulb is good.

 

[Challenger RTA]

This is what might be different from an OEM harness. I cant say, I never seen a diagram or harness.
Do a dimmer switch bypass. See if the lights are working first. The dimmer sw is feed through the headlight sw. As the blue arrows show.

The L1 16 BK* connects to splice 1. That will be hot all the time when the battery is hooked up. Feeds through the headlight sw as the blue arrows show. Feed to L7-18BK