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A833, Hard to get in any gear.

FJ5 1970 440

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From a dead stop with the engine running it's a bear to get in any gear. With the engine off and stopped it shifts just fine. Once moving it goes through the gears just fine. it was rebuilt late last summer and I only drove it a couple times and don't remember it doing this. It has the same Center Force clutch as before and the flywheel was turned. free play is good and there isn't any dragging, so what gives? THANKS................................
 
My suggestion is the clutch not releasing fully , I have had a lot of problems with CF clutch clutches in the past .
If ti shifts fine off or moving that still makes sense , something is wrong with the clutch
 
Do you have a bearing or a bush in the end of the crankshaft?
If the bearing it can contact a little ground ridge on the A833 input shaft.
If a bush it could be a little tight.
 
I would agree with the pilot bushing drag theory, and add, if no anti seize on clutch splines, the disc might not float away from the pressure plate or flywheel.
 
Pull off your inspection cover and look at the gap between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers. I like to see 1/8-3/16"
 
I have been doing this clutch test since I was an apprentice. Not an exact science but it will indicate there is a major problem with clutch or that it may not be the problem.
You will need a helper.
Jack the car up and put on stands. Engine off.
Get your helper to put the gearbox in 4 th gear and leave it there. Reason - an A833 input/output shafts are locked together in top gear. Don't use first, second or third gears as they have a gear reduction.
Helper let the clutch out.
You try and turn the driveshaft.
Helper slowly push the clutch in and about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way to the floor with the pedal you should be able to start to be able to rotate the driveshaft.
With the pedal depressed to the floor the driveshaft/clutch disc should be able to be rotated quite freely.
 
I have seen CF clutches where the centrifical weights bind the finger & pinch part of the disc , so the pressure plate doesn't release evenly
 
Update, Got a helper to depress the clutch pedal while I looked at the flywheel-preasure plate-disk.
There's plenty of air gap on both sides of the disk, it also slides forward and backwards with ease.
And you can turn the disk/pilot shaft with no effort. I'm gonna try a fluid change next. Thanks everyone,
have a great 4th of July............................
 
Since it was rebuilt I would check for a bad synchronizer. Easy to shift when engine not running plus it’s usually easy while moving down the road if bad. Those brass rings are little brakes to stop each gear to allow engagement.
 
Since it was rebuilt I would check for a bad synchronizer. Easy to shift when engine not running plus it’s usually easy while moving down the road if bad. Those brass rings are little brakes to stop each gear to allow engagement.
I was thinking the same but he said "any gear" when he's stopped.
 
I was thinking the same but he said "any gear" when he's stopped.
They ALL have syncros except reverse. The input still turns because of friction even with clutch pushed in, which in turn (pun intended) turns the cluster which turns the gears at different speeds. So when moving the synchro into whatever gear, it pushes the brake (brass ring) to slow down or stop that gear to engage those little teeth on the synchro. Those gears and cluster never stop turning when input is turning.
 
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Oil is worth a try but I am going to predict no change the problem will still be there.
Can you do an update after you change the oil.
 
They ALL have syncros except reverse. The input still turns because of friction even with clutch pushed in, which in turn (pun intended) turns the cluster which turns the gears at different speeds. So when moving the synchro into whatever gear, it pushes the brake (brass ring) to slow down or stop that gear to engage those little teeth on the synchro. Those gears and cluster never stop turning when input is turning.
I’ll add, when ‘slick shifting’ the trans, every other tooth is removed on gear and slider, brass rings are removed except in first gear, to allow faster engagement (more spacing)
 
UPDATE.... Problem solved.....Did a fluid change and the problem went away immediately.
Don't know if I can say what I used on the open forum, but it worked. "BOOM"
Thanks everyone..................................................................................................
 
I had almost the exact same problem with the 6 speed in my 2004 Dodge 2500. Owners manual says no need to change the fluid...just keep it at proper level. Couldn't hardly get it in gear at a stop and it wasn't much easier going down the road. I changed the fluid and added an extra quart thru the shift tower....and now it shifts like butter again!
 
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