Best cylinder head
- Thread starter Greencuda
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moparleo
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Welcome aboard. What are the specs on your build other than it is a stroked 340 ? Cam, compression, etc...
Rob C
Well-Known Member
The Edelbrock head OOTB is not enough head for a 416. A ported Edelbrock head is good. A well ported W2/5 is more of what would wake that engine up.
Adam
Well-Known Member
Make sure you are getting the proper timing/advance, air/fuel ratio. That 416 should be a beast; maybe take it to a dyno to find the right tune.
Aluminum heads are lighter, but will likely cost you power due to the heat loss, unless the heads have a smaller chamber/higher compression. You should probably consult a cam manufacturer and discuss what the best cam would be for your build, and your intended use. A 416 has a longer stroke and will generate excellent torque, but may not rev as quickly as a 340. For a street car, with the larger displacement and long stroke you may be happiest with a cam that produces massive torque.
I have iron heads on my 440 and a Comp cam with less than 230 degrees @.050, that car will light up the tires at will, and can chirp the tires going into every gear, but it is very streetable...(3.55 diff). If you have a race car, that is a whole different animal.
Aluminum heads are lighter, but will likely cost you power due to the heat loss, unless the heads have a smaller chamber/higher compression. You should probably consult a cam manufacturer and discuss what the best cam would be for your build, and your intended use. A 416 has a longer stroke and will generate excellent torque, but may not rev as quickly as a 340. For a street car, with the larger displacement and long stroke you may be happiest with a cam that produces massive torque.
I have iron heads on my 440 and a Comp cam with less than 230 degrees @.050, that car will light up the tires at will, and can chirp the tires going into every gear, but it is very streetable...(3.55 diff). If you have a race car, that is a whole different animal.
Rob C
Well-Known Member
Adam is incorrect about 1 thing.
1: The longer stroke of the crank does physically take longer to move from top to bottom and back but the lighter slugs and thinner ring packs are a plus, in a big way, this set up will out rev the OE stroke to red line, any time, all the time.
2: Aluminum dissipates heat quicker than iron = fact. The cc change from the OE head to any aftertmarket head is an automatic cc reduction for the increased compression ratio.
There have been several magazine tests as well as independent studies that show no differences in power when the flow is the same. In other words, compression is compression. Flow is flow. Take the flow over the compression.
FWIW, I ran an 11-1 - 360 cid with Edelbrock heads, intake, carb, solid cam under 250*@.050. No problems for hundreds & hundreds of daily driven miles.
1: The longer stroke of the crank does physically take longer to move from top to bottom and back but the lighter slugs and thinner ring packs are a plus, in a big way, this set up will out rev the OE stroke to red line, any time, all the time.
2: Aluminum dissipates heat quicker than iron = fact. The cc change from the OE head to any aftertmarket head is an automatic cc reduction for the increased compression ratio.
There have been several magazine tests as well as independent studies that show no differences in power when the flow is the same. In other words, compression is compression. Flow is flow. Take the flow over the compression.
FWIW, I ran an 11-1 - 360 cid with Edelbrock heads, intake, carb, solid cam under 250*@.050. No problems for hundreds & hundreds of daily driven miles.
Last edited:
Adam
Well-Known Member
Rumble fish 360 is correct,the lighter mass of modern pistons, rings, rods, ect, really help..
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