Blowing fuse for tail lamps, side markers and dash cluster???

[transam]

I noticed my taillights were not working and my side marker lights and also my dash cluster lights. I went under the dash and found a 20amp fuse blown. I changed the fuse, turned the light switch on and no side markers, no tailights and no dash cluster lights. I went back under and the fuse was blown again?? Any ideas on where I should begin to look. I have headlights and directional lights and the four way flashers work. I opened the drivers side panel and disconnected the rear harness, I installed a new 20a fuse, reached up and flipped the headlight switch and watched the new 20a fuse just melt in half??So do I assume that the rear end lights are all OK and where do I go from here. I really do not want to try and take the headlight switch as it is a pain to get the switch panel out of the dash? I did install a brand new front lighting harness and all new bulbs up front?? What about the brake light switch being shorted, as I also have no brake lights???

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

What have you done to the car recently? Perhaps a wire got pinched or something was installed that damaged a wire. Like Kat said, disconnect the connector for each light then see if the problem persists. If the fuse does not blow start reconnecting one at a time until the fuse blows. That should point t you in the right direction.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Behind the drives kick panel. Unplug the rear harness. That will narrow it down where it's at. Use a lower amp fuse 5 or 10, if you run out or save the 20 amp for when you need it.
Inspect the light sockets there might be a bad one.

At the rear harness plug a test light can be used to see if there is a short to ground. Unplug all sockets and remove all bulbs. Be sure to there not touching ground when out. Use a test light connected to power and touch to each connector. If it come on that's where the short is. If not found plug the just the sockets in no bulb. Check again. Don't forget about the dome light.

Thought I had a picture of the bad socket. This is after I fixed it.
The plastic insulator was cracked it's what caused my issue maybe as yours

 

[transam]

I noticed my taillights were not working and my side marker lights and also my dash cluster lights. I went under the dash and found a 20amp fuse blown. I changed the fuse, turned the light switch on and no side markers, no tailights and no dash cluster lights. I went back under and the fuse was blown again?? Any ideas on where I should begin to look. I have headlights and directional lights and the four way flashers work. I opened the drivers side panel and disconnected the rear harness, I installed a new 20a fuse, reached up and flipped the headlight switch and watched the new 20a fuse just melt in half??So do I assume that the rear end lights are all OK and where do I go from here. I really do not want to try and take the headlight switch as it is a pain to get the switch panel out of the dash? I did install a brand new front lighting harness and all new bulbs up front?? What about the brake light switch being shorted, as I also have no brake lights???

OK Did some more probing. First I should say that I recently changed the front end lighting harness and also installed 4 new OEM side marker light housings with the attached pigtails. I was thinking a headlamp switch or the dash dimmer switch which are both original to the car and maybe why my running parking lights are not working. So I installed two new switches and I also removed the cigar lighter . I am now not blowing fuses but I still do noy have dash lights, side marker lights or parking lights. I do have headlights high and low. Brake lights and directionals and 4 way flashers all work? So now I am wondering about the brand new OEM side marker lights up front of maybe the new front lighting harness. Any thoughts?

 

[Challenger RTA]

The ground is in front of the battery. Unplug the bulkhead connector. Check to see if you have power at 11 Black Tan tracer and 10 Black yellow tracer. You can power up the light from the front harness. Use a fused jumper ( not really needed you will know if there is a problem.) and connect to 10 and 11 see if they power up. If you blow a fuse with the front light harness unplugged the the problem is under the dash. It would be a good idea to unplug the rear harness behind the kick panel. It will help narrow down the problem.

Also make sure the front turn signal housing is grounded. All the screws help provide a ground.

You have to isolate the problem where it is at. Front, back, middle or the connections.

 

[transam]

The ground is in front of the battery. Unplug the bulkhead connector. Check to see if you have power at 11 Black Tan tracer and 10 Black yellow tracer. You can power up the light from the front harness. Use a fused jumper ( not really needed you will know if there is a problem.) and connect to 10 and 11 see if they power up. If you blow a fuse with the front light harness unplugged the the problem is under the dash. It would be a good idea to unplug the rear harness behind the kick panel. It will help narrow down the problem.

Also make sure the front turn signal housing is grounded. All the screws help provide a ground.

You have to isolate the problem where it is at. Front, back, middle or the connections.View attachment 146284View attachment 146283
View attachment 146282

I spent 5 hours today isolating the front lighting harness which was just bought from year one. I ended up just disconnecting (unplugging) the two front side marker lights and the two front valance parking lights. I then sent power down number 11 and did not blow a fuse. I then attached just one side marker light and sent power down 11 again and blew a fuse. The two front marker lights were just bought and are the OER units. I then took one of my old front markers and plugged it in wfter removing the new OER. Guess what? My old marker lit right up and fuse did not blow. So then I hooked the parking light on that same side and powered it up again with no blown fuse again. So I went to the other side marker light which was brand new from OEM. I plugged it in and powered it up and guess what? Blew another fuse.... I then took my old front marker and swapped it out for the new OEM and powered it up. It lit up and no blown fuse. So I then plugged the other front valance parking light in and powered it up and now all the side markers, my tail lights and my front running lights all work.... I guess what I am finding is that the two brand new OER side marker lights have to be defective and causing shorts which was blowing fuses. I am pissed. Took me 5 hours on my back checking and testing. Friggen Chinese junk is what it is. And I paid good money for these parts and they are brand new. Anybody else had this issue with these junk side marker lights???

 

[Katfish]

Any chance the wires are reversed on the OER parts?
Might be able to swap them.

 

[transam]

Any chance the wires are reversed on the OER parts?
Might be able to swap them.

Dont know, but I am pissed. Those were not cheap but they were cheaply made. My old ones had a separate spade plug welded to the outside of the bulb holder which the ground wire was plugged onto. These new OER ones seemed to hide all that under a plastic sheath. I will be calling them tomorrow for sure. If you buy something, it should work?

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Dont know, but I am pissed. Those were not cheap but they were cheaply made. My old ones had a separate spade plug welded to the outside of the bulb holder which the ground wire was plugged onto. These new OER ones seemed to hide all that under a plastic sheath. I will be calling them tomorrow for sure. If you buy something, it should work?

I had the same issue when I was wiring my American Autowire harness to the front end lighting. I bought two new side marker lights and wired them up. As soon as I clicked the headlight switch on the fuse blew. I isolated it to the side marker lights so did a continuity test and found the wires were reversed. I cut the wires and reversed my wiring on them and that resolved the problem. In hindsight I guess I should have verified which wire was ground before wiring. Live and learn...

 

[Xcudame]

I second Katfish and Rick. They're likely on the right track. But to your point, you're correct, you pay good money and it should work as intended.

I really hope we start manufacturing parts back in the USA. Even though there are some cheesy American made parts, I've generally had more success over the years with Made in USA.