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Brake proportioning valve

70chall440

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I mounted one underneath my 70 because I was tapping into the original rear brake line but if you are doing it all new I would put it up near the MC so you can get to it.
 

340challconvert

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:welcome: to FEBO from New Jersey
If you get a chance; Go to the Welcome Wagon and introduce yourself!
Looking forward to some pics of your 70 Challenger!
 

Chryco Psycho

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I hid a few of them on the frame rail under the drivers floor in the rear line with the screw pointed down for easy access ,
 

rklein71

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This is where I put mine, below master cylinder to kind of hide it but still accessible from the top. I made a bracket to stabilize the proportioning valve after the picture was taken.
Rod

IMG_4482.JPG
 

brotow

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Right under the master cylinder is the stock location on my 1970 Challenger.

100_2156.jpg
 

DaveBob

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The factory proportioning valve is on a frame rail, below and forward of the driver's seat. I replumbed the system, as part of a four wheel disc conversion, and used a solid line front to back to eliminate the valve and replace it with line clamp. I then added an adjustable proportioning valve below the master cylinder, thanks to the design of the master cylinder I used. The Baer master cylinder has a mounting location for their valve, just below the cylinder. Then, the trick is custom fabricating the lines that fit, don't leak and tie the new and old parts together.

1970 Repair Manual.jpg


Master Cylinder.jpg


Proportioning Valve.jpg
 

Badfishy

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This is where I put mine, below master cylinder to kind of hide it but still accessible from the top. I made a bracket to stabilize the proportioning valve after the picture was taken.
Rod

View attachment 77859
Hi rklein71, it looks as if you have an adjustable prop valve in addition to the prop valve built into the distribution block? Did you “gut” the block, or running both? Curious to know if this combo works well?

I’ve got rear brake lock-up after changing to a modern aluminum Mopar master cylinder (same bore as original) and braided brake lines. Looking to simply add the adjustable valve without gutting the stock valve.

Thanks!
 

rklein71

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Hi rklein71, it looks as if you have an adjustable prop valve in addition to the prop valve built into the distribution block? Did you “gut” the block, or running both? Curious to know if this combo works well?

I’ve got rear brake lock-up after changing to a modern aluminum Mopar master cylinder (same bore as original) and braided brake lines. Looking to simply add the adjustable valve without gutting the stock valve.

Thanks!
I did not gut the internals of the distribution block. Honestly, I have not had a chance to really play with the proportioning valve I installed. I basically have it wide open for now so it isn't functioning. I wish I could be more help. I have been building a shop the last six months and just have too busy to really work on my Barracuda.

IMG_0799.JPG
 

Iguana

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Here is where mine ended up on my 72.
 

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Steve340

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Badfishy
Have a look at what DaveBob posted.
A metering valve, distribution block and a proportioning valve are not the same thing and do different functions.
The factory service manual describes what they do better than I can.
 

Badfishy

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The factory proportioning valve is on a frame rail, below and forward of the driver's seat. I replumbed the system, as part of a four wheel disc conversion, and used a solid line front to back to eliminate the valve and replace it with line clamp. I then added an adjustable proportioning valve below the master cylinder, thanks to the design of the master cylinder I used. The Baer master cylinder has a mounting location for their valve, just below the cylinder. Then, the trick is custom fabricating the lines that fit, don't leak and tie the new and old parts together.

View attachment 77948

View attachment 77949

View attachment 77950
Hi DaveBob, is your factory combination valve completely functional - nothing gutted or disabled - and you added the adjustable valve to that? In other words, functional fixed valve AND adjustable valve? Thanks!
 

Mopar Mitch

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Interesting thread to me now... as I've just installed a Dr Diff 10.7" rear disc setup onto my '72 Challenger (with Cordoba 11.75" front rotors)... factory power discs, rear 10" drums. Aluminum master cylinder from Mopar Performance installed many years ago.

The factory proportioning valve is the later-design cast iron (rounded design). I wasn't aware that the proportioning valve has to be changed.... dash brake light stays on unless hard braking... then it goes off... and returns on when pedal released. That's when I contacted DrDiff.. and was informed of the required change in the proportioning valve... either remove and gut it (if possible??)... or completely change it to a drum-drum design.. and newly shaped lines (he can supply all as needed).

Does anyone know IF the later design (cast-iron rounded) proportioning valve can be gutted? Dr Diff isn't sure if it can be... or not... he suggested that I research this matter.

(Note: I did not intend to hijack this original thread... just throwing it in as it may be further helpful.)
 
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