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car stall after startup 1973 cuda w/ 340

mikes456

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I ‘m having a problem with my car. These are the events in order as they occurred.

  1. A few weeks ago I took the car for a ride.
  2. It stalled in traffic and the battery was low from not being driven because it was at a friend’s garage where we did some recent work I could not get it started.
  3. Called triple AAA for a jump, they came out jumped it and it started right up, but when the power pack used to jump it was removed it stalled. (battery really dead)
  4. Put a battery in started right up but ran poorly at idle and low speed and limped home.
  5. The following was done to try and fix the problem.
A: Replaced the ignition module, and dual ballast resistor and disconnected a non-factory
tach.
B: Replaced coil.

The car starts right up runs perfect for about 45 seconds to a minute than stalls. I have a fuel pressure gauge and the pressure is good.
The only thing out of the ordinary I noticed is that the ignition switch is getting sloppy and I sometimes have a hard time getting the key in it. Could this be the cause?

I recently did the following work to the car:

  1. Replaced headers
  2. Replaced steering box
  3. Installed the fuel pressure gauge and related plumbing to carb.

I’m ordering a distributor but I do not think it is the problem.
Any ideas?

Thanks MIke
 

mikes456

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A piece of Teflon tape got stuck in one of the needle and seats of carb and it was dumping fuel.
This was from when I plumbed the fuel pressure gauge.
That being said the cylinder lock in the column is sloppy and must be replaced.
The local auto parts have them for $18 might be junk, not sure.
Year One , Jims and the other people sell them for more money.
should I buy local? I think everybody has the same stuff?
 

challenger6pak

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You didn't say it was fooding. If it flooded that bad, I would change the oil. Pull the oil dip stick. If it smells like gas change the oil due to the ring wash out from the fuel.
 

mikes456

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I could not tell it was flooding until a got a second person to keep motor running while I looked at carb. The oil has been changed and hopefully no more tape will move. What are your thoughts on the cylinder look for the column should I just by local or are the ones from the restoration places better they do cost more? thanks for the help
 

moparleo

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Most of the restoration houses have a price match guarantee. They just need a copy of the price from a catalog or website.
This way you can still support the resto houses which have spent money to get our resto parts reproduced so we can restore our cars.
 

Chryco Psycho

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Most of the lock cylinders are made by one company , I would get the best pricing , unless it is Old stock pgked in Briggs & Stratton box as they are OEM .
 
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